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Replacing LED's in a VT Deluxe

JimmyM

JimmyM

Apr 11, 2005
127,255
125,173
Plymouth NC
Disclosures
Endorsing: Yamaha, Ampeg, Line 6, EMG
#1
Emboldened by my recent success soldering a new battery clip onto the PCB of my wireless transmitter (3 months and still holding), I'm ready to tackle an even bigger job...replacing the LED's in my VT Deluxe. They're fine as long as I'm indoors, but I've gotten spoiled by the newer brighter LED's, and now that insanely bright blue isn't the only color that you can see outside in the daytime, I'm ready to replace them. I'll need to watch that Youtube video with the 10 year old kid showing you how to solder to PCB's again, but I really think I can do it without screwing up. Of course, that's assuming they're drop in replacements that don't require any hoop jumping...

Don't have a clue which kind to order, though. Would like to make them all very bright red so they don't look too un-stock. If anyone can link me to a parts supplier for the right kind of LED's, it would save me a lot of guesswork and research and I would thank you for saving me 2 hours poking around at websites.
 
#4
LEDs are generally designed into the circuit by current draw (rather than voltage); commonly somewhere in the area of 20-100mA. Without trying to figure out a schematic or knowing the spec you could just fudge it and use something like a 50mA LED. It will probably work more or less but may not give you the full brightness the part was designed for if, for example, the circuit accounts for a 20mA LED. They will usually take something of a range as per their spec sheet.

You will also need to know the diameter of the part for it to fit nicely in the panel. Just from looking at a picture of the VT deluxe it sort of looks like a T-1 (5mm) which is a common size. You would want to measure it to be sure though.

I find Jameco decent for small parts orders. For example, here are some high output red LEDs in T-1 size:
  • 50mA clear 700mcd: Invalid Link Removed
  • 40mA smokey 600mcd : Invalid Link Removed
The brightest color they carry is actually green (humans eyes also have much more sensitivity to green than red, by the way).

When soldering the part in keep in mind that LEDs have a polarity. On the T-1 style LEDs this is often indicated by a flattened side of the base. You will need to maintain the polarity as per the one you remove, or it will not light.

3E3SW89SUAN


If you are still new to soldering and desoldering, you may want to grab a scrap PCB to practice on before operating on the VT deluxe. Jameco also sells "learn to solder" kits. Desoldering requires a braided desoldering wick and some patience (or a vacuum solder sucker).
 
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#5
Uh oh, hoop jumping seems imminent. Not good. Eh, I can live with it, but it would be nice to change them out. Maybe Chris' input is needed here. Well thank you guys for the replies, especially Elf with the links and detailed info!
 
#6
Simply changing out the LED's probably won't make them brighter, without changing the resistor value that MUST be in series with the LED. Removing the resistor will definitely make it brighter...for a second or two.

When I get a pedal with an LED that is insanely bright, I replaced the fixed resistor with a trimpot so I can adjust the brigtness. VFE also does this with their pedals.
 
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#8
Light emitting diodes (led's), should be a snap to replace. As mentioned previously you must connect with proper polarity. One end of the led might have a white or black dot to indicate anode or one lead may be longer than the other or a plus or minus sign etc. If you connect it incorrectly, no damage done, no current will flow, and no light will be seen. Don't be afraid to experiment. Use a small soldering iron to solder or desolder. 15-30 watts with a tiny focused tip is appropriate.One thing you can do right now, is cannibalize an optical computer mouse. (no, not the one in your hand, but the unused one with the flakey cable sitting in a pile somewhere.) Just unscrew the cover take a look at the printed circuit, you will see one or more led's. these can be desoldered, and reused. I have done this for various projects. If you are uncertain about the brightness, as a test, you can temporarily use small alligator clips leads to quickly add them to the circuit. This way you can determine the correct polarity as well. If you like the light, solder it in permanently. Total cost? about 1 inch of rosin core solder, and 20 of your time. Have fun. Get the satisfaction of recycling and DIY...
 
#10
Any waterclear led that you will get will be brighter than the plastic colored leds that are currently in there. Did it to my VTbass and it turned that dim RED into a bright blue. Different leds are spec'd differently for their brightness, you won't have to change a resistor, just swap and go and you'll be fine. Hardest part will be figuring how to take the whole thing apart to get to the leds. The VTbass was a pain.
 
#14
Pick the LED with the specs you want, and then find out what voltage your power supply is putting out. Then choose a resistor that will drop the voltage to what the LED is rated for. Current is not an issue unless the power supply can't deliver what is required.

The value of the resistor will be: (supply voltage - load voltage)/(load current)
The power rating of the resistor must exceed: (supply voltage - load voltage)*(load current)

That's all there is to it.
 
#15
line6man said:
Pick the LED with the specs you want, and then find out what voltage your power supply is putting out. Then choose a resistor that will drop the voltage to what the LED is rated for. Current is not an issue unless the power supply can't deliver what is required.
Click to expand...
Umm, no. Not for LEDs. LEDs are diodes (hence the D) and diodes have a very non-linear voltage drop based on current. In fact, it's almost constant. Silicon diodes normally have a drop around 0.7 to 0.8 volts. LEDs could be a little different, but still around that range (it's been awhile since I've done any circuit design and I forget what a typical LED voltage drop is). So you take the PS voltage minus the typical LED voltage to get the voltage drop across the current limiting resister. Then you pick a value for the current limiting resister based on how much current you want flowing through the LED. More current (within the LED spec), brighter LED. Too much current, dark LED.
 
#17
You can buy brighter leds. No need to change the resistor values. Standard leds are 5 mm. Look on mammoth or pedal parts plus. Really easy to do. The only caution is if the leds are in the pcb, just make sure not to over heat it with your iron.
 
#20
wlater said:
Umm, no. Not for LEDs. LEDs are diodes (hence the D) and diodes have a very non-linear voltage drop based on current. In fact, it's almost constant. Silicon diodes normally have a drop around 0.7 to 0.8 volts. LEDs could be a little different, but still around that range (it's been awhile since I've done any circuit design and I forget what a typical LED voltage drop is). So you take the PS voltage minus the typical LED voltage to get the voltage drop across the current limiting resister. Then you pick a value for the current limiting resister based on how much current you want flowing through the LED. More current (within the LED spec), brighter LED. Too much current, dark LED.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you're trying to argue. Of course you adjust the resistance based on the brightness you want, but you can choose a resistance based on a basic equation for the specs that are given. A lot of aftermarket LEDs come with a table on the back of the packaging, which indicates the resistance to choose for various supply voltages. The OP can go with that, as well.
 

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