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Replacing the nut

W

WayneS

Apr 9, 2007
873
10
Virginia
#1
Going from big strings (.65 - .130) to smaller strings has caused the string to vibrate in the nut. I ordered a new one. Is this something that I can do myself or should I take it to a luthier?

Seems easy enough but things arent always as they seem. The bass is a Fender P.
 
#2
Wrong way:

Is your new nut already cut to the right depth for your strings and bass?

If so, and you are desperate, read on. Ok, this is really for survival purposes only, and I will omit the story about carving a nut at a gig out of a plastic comb with a pocket knife, here goes...:D

I have found that one can pop the old nut out whole with a small sharp blade, but I am no expert. Loosen the strings, pull them aside, put the blade in the between the nut and the FB and pry/pop it out gently. If you do it and it works, save the old one, even if it cracks. You can compare it to the new one and see if the slots look to be the right depth.

Put the new one in, string it, and go! Yes, I have found that a new nut will stay put without glue--but again--I don't advocate it and am no expert, but I have gotten away with this a couple of times. :hiding:



Right way:

Take it to a good luthier. I have a bone nut on my Jazz which was put on by a tech at Gryphon Stringed Instruments in Palo Alto, CA. The nut is perfect in every way. Not an expensive repair. :bassist: :bassist: :bassist:
 
#3
The nut I ordered is precut and is made for Fender P or J basses. I asked the guy about it being precut and he said to his knowledge no one has had problems with it.

If it doesnt work, it wasnt expensive so nothing is really lost. Worst case scenario, I'll buy another one and then take it to a luthier.
 
#4
Might not be a bad idea to get some more informed advice. My adventures in nut replacement have all been acts of desperation while on the road or at a gig. :eek:

Also, if you are taking it to a luthier, be sure to ask if they stock the type of nut you want. If you get it directly from the luthier, it can save time, won't cost much more, and will assure you that the tech is working with his/her preferred and familiar materials. All IMHO. :D
 
#7
Good question about the glue. An excellent fellow who repairs symphony orchestra instruments once told me NEVER use inorganic glues such as superglues as they bond/soak into the wood and are impossible to remove without taking some of the wood with the nut. He said to get organic glues made from hide or even horse glue. Just a dot or two and you are set. Then you can remove the nut if ever necessary by a gentle prying/wiggling or even an injection of heated air thru a needle. I am sure the Luthier forum here can elucidate.
 
#8
I replaced a broken plastic nut on my Fender jazz bass with a precut brass nut. It took me and my nephew 15 minutes (we were being extra careful removing the old nut). I did not use glue. It's been working fine for 4+ years now. If you use glue, use wood glue (not super glue). You might want to replace this nut sometime in the future. Articles that I read say avoid permanent glues and such.

Good Luck!
 
#11
The stock nut on my MIM Jazz 5 had been fine, it has had Chrome Flats on the bass since I bought it used a few months ago. Same strings still on it, still in very good shape. But the other day at practice the E string started slipping out of its' slot when I dug in some. I dig in on this bass often, could that have worn down the E slot? If I dont dig in too much the E string will stay in the slot.

You can tell by looking at the nut that the E string slot has worn down some, this seems to be letting the E string pull up out of the slot when I pull up on the E string. So is there a repair or just need to replace the nut altogether? If replace, where would I look for one, does it have to be for a MIM bass and would it be worth it to get a better nut now, bone, brass or just stick with plastic? Will there be tonal advantages with a nut made of different material or just wont wear down so fast again?

This is a 2007 MIM, bought new by original owner who I got it from, so its only a few months old.
 
#12
You can modify the slots in the existing nut.

First, measure the distance from bottom of each slot to the fretboard - you will want to replicate this measurement later.

Then put masking tape on both sides of the nut, dribble some baking soda into the nut slots, then drop a single drop of super glue into each nut slot. The super glue will turn the baking soda into a solid substance that matches the nut.

Do a tiny bit of filing to get the slots the right depth, and there you are. No need to replace the nut.

And ErnieD, you can use this technique to build up a worn-down slot as well.

If you do want to replace the nut, use ONE drop of super glue under it - no more than that. The strings hold it in place anyway - so all you need is one drop. That will also allow the nut to be removed again in the future if needed. Heck, a dab of contact cement under the nut ought to work, too - I've just never tried it.
 
#13
If you ordered a pre-cut nut, all that <i>may</i> be right about it is string spacing and width, but I wouldn't bet on it.

Having a good nut on your bass is crucial to the overall setup and feel of your instrument. If the spacing is even the tiniest fraction off, you will feel it (you might not notice it, until you actually have a proper nut cut. Once you have it right, you'll never want to play a poorly cut nut again). I'd recommend having a skilled tech do it for you - carving a good bone nut from scratch may only cost between $50-$75. Sure, you can try it yourself, but to do it perfectly takes the right tools, the right know how, and plenty of experience.

And yes, please don't use super glue.
 

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