Restoring a neglected and abused Yamaha BX-1

[poochiecheeks]

In this thread I would like to document my attempt to restore this 1980 something Yamaha BX-1 bass. Of all the wooden non steinberger 80s headless basses I always thought these were the coolest. I found this bass on reverb and I believe I can bring it back to life, as it would be perfect for the 80s band I'm in. I am an electrician and not a luthier so this is my amateur attempt at doing most of this.

The plan is to get it to a state where it can be refretted and refinished by a professional, I am not confident nor willing to do either of those things myself. Maybe that will change when I get to that point.

Im keeping an ongoing poll of what color to refinish it. My inital plan was white but something is telling me bright neon pink is what this needs. Paging the pink bass man on youtube

***Warning: this thread contains images depicting graphic violence, gore and disturbing imagery against all bass kind the likes of which can only be found in the most depraved depths of the internet. You have been warned

 

[poochiecheeks]

The Victim

I found this on reverb looking for neck through 80s Yamaha basses. This came from a pawn shop in Maine and I got it for a few hundred dollars. I really went for it because it had the case, otherwise I would have passed. Everything on it hardware wise is original. But I would love to find whoever did this and ask them what kind of drugs they were using to think this purple barney meth binge paint job was a good idea.

Ive completely taken it apart and the neck has a definite forward bow with the truss rod nut removed fully. Im thinking of sending it to WarpedNeck.com to see if they can heat press it before any finishing happens to this.
The frets are really worn. Maybe usuable but definitely in bad shape. I was shocked to see that the bridge screws all turn and are only corroded on the surface. I'm planning on dumping everything in a bucket of WD40 for a few months until I put it back together again.

 

[poochiecheeks]

So tonight I started by stripping the finish. I got a cheap heat gun and a putty knife and went to work. The purple had no clear coat on it and came right off in big pieces, like when latex paint in your bathroom gets water behind it and bubbles up. I found the original black underneath which took more convincing to get off. Tried to find the serial but there was no salvaging it, the first 3 numbers were gone.

Tried to save this too but no luck

Everything seems to be going ok. Under the black there looks like some kind of sealer coat which likes to catch on fire in the heat gun. I am being super careful not to dig into the wood but on a lot of the edges and curved surfaces I took some big chunks out

My concern right now is the neck. Trying to scrape this crap off of a round surface with a flat blade makes the neck look like a purple carrot. Theres a lot of places where the knife dug in and took some wood out. I dont know how to a) strip the finish fully off the neck and b) get the neck feeling smooth again.

I have a lot more to go especially around the edges and corners. Ideally I would like to get down to the wood and then bondo the whole thing to fix those chunks I took out? The neck through stripes are gorgeous but I think this bass has seen too much trauma to have a translucent finish. Not sure yet

 

[poochiecheeks]

I have all the parts separated and labeled. Whatever rocket surgeon had this last painted the bass with the pickups still in it. So I have to clean up the two covers. I really really hated having to unsolder them as the wiring looked like all original solder joints. But I think keeping the electronics stock are the least of this bass' problems.

The bridge is really not bad, just corroded. Im wondering if I can soak the whole thing in WD40, take it apart and put it all back. Maybe I can respray it black with some clear over it to get it looking new again.
Have to source another knob and period correct strap buttons too.

 

[poochiecheeks]

Im going to just post in here as I get things accomplished. Maybe it will help someone else or be interesting.

 

[Evan38109]

Cool project!

I went ahead and voted for the natural oil finish. When you got that paint off, it looks like there's some cool laminations between a couple varieties of wood there. I think the light and dark contrast would look good.

If you decide to take on the finishing yourself, there are plenty of threads around here on applying oil finishes. You'll have to sand past whatever existing finish is on there, but after that it's pretty simple. Tru Oil, Osmo Polyx, wipe-on poly, an oil/poly blend, and plenty of others are straightforward and can provide some delightful results.

Good luck!

 

[SpyderX]

***Warning: this thread contains images depicting graphic violence, gore and disturbing imagery against all bass kind the likes of which can only be found in the most depraved depths of the internet. You have been warned

 

[Matt Liebenau]

It might not have been the worst idea to leave the sealer on the bass, possibly even the black finish as a base for a new solid color finish but that decision has been made. How to proceed depends on what you want in the end. A solid color finish gives you some options for filler but what can work either way is to sand things as level as possible then use a good marine epoxy, Total Boat or West Systems, as a filler.

Also, cool bass. I’d love to find a BX-5 that’s reasonably priced (read, I’m a cheapskate) although I suspect the string spacing would be a bit narrow for my taste.

 

[VeryTallBassist]

I think once you start sanding it'll look much better than it does now and you'll get a better idea of whether or not you can go with a natural finish. I hope you can. Those neck thru laminates would look awesome.

 

[Captain Comet]

Before you stripped it, I would have thrown bright contrasting paint on it in spatters, clear coated that and called it done. You still can. Either white or a really dark color as a background and neon green and neon pink spatter, Or you could go full Eddie Van Halen on it.... Either would hide how rough it is without too much work. I build furniture and will tell you wood prep for stain/oil has to be about 4 times nicer than paint. If you are a perfectionist, you will stare at every flaw if you just oil it, even if everyone thinks it is OK. LOL.

If you intend to repaint the bridge, I doubt any paint will stick if you soak it in WD-40. My favorite auto painter has a rule ... no silicone spray within 500 feet of his shop. You will never get the part clean enough not to have fisheyes in the paint. You may be better off replacing it if it won't clean up with just soapy water.

It definitely looks like a fun, very different bass. I would have to make it cool and would play it a lot if comfortable. '
I think you are giving me some BAD ideas. LOL.

 

[Klangfarbe]

No Joke, I'm serious about that.

 

[Suntory]

No Joke, I'm serious about that.

 

[poochiecheeks]

A solid color finish gives you some options for filler but what can work either way is to sand things as level as possible then use a good marine epoxy, Total Boat or West Systems, as a filler.

This is what I am leaning towards. I also have to move one of the strap buttons, fix some kind of crack around the control cavity and now fill the numerous gouges ive created trying to strip it. Not sure a natural finish would be realistic.

 

[poochiecheeks]

If you intend to repaint the bridge, I doubt any paint will stick if you soak it in WD-40. My favorite auto painter has a rule ... no silicone spray within 500 feet of his shop. You will never get the part clean enough not to have fisheyes in the paint

Thats why I was holding off. I'd like to try and repaint the bridge as it seems doable and finding all these replacement parts is essentially impossible.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

On the bridge parts, this can get a nice dark blue / black finish on steel. Just follow the directions and then wipe with some 3 in 1 oil. For nonsteel parts they have brass black and aluminum black.

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[poochiecheeks]

More close up gore

 

[joeLowB]

Thanks! Watching, as I've pondered similar projects.

 

[poochiecheeks]

On the bridge parts, this can get a nice dark blue / black finish on steel. Just follow the directions and then wipe with some 3 in 1 oil. For nonsteel parts they have brass black and aluminum black.

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that is amazing thank you

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I think the Natural Finish boat has sailed on this one, Bondo and black paint are your friend here. Stop using whatever tool created those gouges in the neck and just use sandpaper for the rest of it.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

that is amazing thank you

I’ve only used the cold blue, I haven’t tried the brass or aluminum black so the best bet is try to find some videos or other instructions if you want to go that route.