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Return to quoting peak wattages?

So do you think this amp will blow anything?

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50W Class A into 8 ohms. It's max current is 100A peak to peak, 20V 20Hz - 20kHz.

50W@ 8Ohms is an output voltage of 20V and a current of 2.5A as Bill said. Even if the load attached dipped down to 1 Ohm, that would only require 20A from the amp. Also peak-to-peak current is relatively meaningless and a way to grossly inflate the important value of RMS current. Peak-peak current is 2.82x the RMS value. So the amp can really deliver 35A RMS. All that means is that it has an overbuilt power supply. The only thing more overblown than peak to peak current is Antony Michaelson's ego. :ninja:
 
Well, math aside for us knuckleheads, musicians are supposed to be handy with using their ears. A couple of experiences with a blown driver will acquaint you with what it generally sounds like, and there- now you'll know! And you'll know what led to it, hopefully.

Nothing like experience... ;)
 
50W@ 8Ohms is an output voltage of 20V and a current of 2.5A as Bill said. Even if the load attached dipped down to 1 Ohm, that would only require 20A from the amp. Also peak-to-peak current is relatively meaningless and a way to grossly inflate the important value of RMS current. Peak-peak current is 2.82x the RMS value. So the amp can really deliver 35A RMS. All that means is that it has an overbuilt power supply. The only thing more overblown than peak to peak current is Antony Michaelson's ego. :ninja:

AM's ego aside, if all other factors are equal, what is going to blow a speaker first, this MuFi amp or a 800w Walter Woods?
 
I'm asking a serious question and citing two specific amplifiers.

What is the answer?
OK, serious answer.

If you have a 50w head and an 800w head going into the same speaker cab, let's say this cab is rated for 600w, simple math tells you that the 800w head stands a MUCH greater chance of blowing out the cab.

And this is not directed to you since there are a lot of big time idiots who make gear and still promote this myth, but I honest to God don't understand why this underpowering myth just doesn't die. It seems the more you explain that it's too much power that blows cabs, as logical as it sounds on its face, people on here still continue to insist that it's not enough power that blows cabs. And that just can't be. Blowing a cab by underpowering it makes as little sense as using a 16 oz glass to hold 32 oz of water, in other words, zero sense.

And that accounts for my flip answer at first. Sorry if I was rude, but it's really aggravating to keep talking about it constantly and nobody listens. I really need to spend a week or two away from the computer ;)
 
Better one for you JimmyM: I have a 50 gallon fuel tank, am I going to blow it up if I only put 20 gallons at a time into it? Am I underfilling (under powering) it?
They're coming to take me away, ha ha
They're coming to take me away, ha ha, hee hee, ho ho
To the funny farm
Where life is beautiful all day long
And I'll be happy to see those nice young men in their clean white coats
And they're coming to take me away, ha ha
 
I've been doing some heavy research on low frequency drivers lately. What I have found in design is the major problems with XMAX / XLIM numbers as Greenboy states.

I've been playing with box tuning trying to get a lot of performance down in the 30-75 Hz range for my subs. In ported-tuned box scenarios you run into POWER LIMITATIONS as the driver will suffer overexcursion around all the resonances.

A rated 1500 Watt driver all of a sudden can only take 200 watts or exceed it's max excursion numbers.

MAN, there's no way a cabinet manufacturer can get by these issues. Not one of them says the cabinet is XMAX limited at 55HZ to 200 watts, they just go along with their rating of 800Watts.

That's why I'm going to be experimenting with sealed subs and Infra Integrators. The super XMAX and Power rated subs, Can take massive power in a sealed box according to some of my calcs. Just how much actual power they can take under these conditions is not quite known with my software here.

I'll just have to experiment with it.

So where GB and BFM lined up on polar opposites as far as blown drivers, I say both are issues. When A cab is farting, it's reaching the drivers limits. I have enough power here to fart out any of my cabs at any time. It's pretty clear to operate them considerably BELOW that point.

If that point was still ABOVE the thermal limits of the cabs, which it could be in some situations, a guy could have melted voice coils.

I think most of the destroyed speakers on the forum are not from 810 cabs, but from 2X10's and 115's etc. Just flat trying to make massive music from a small box.

Massive cannot be done with one speaker. And in that all of us are in total agreement.

What was this thread about?

BOB

Sorry for the long quote, guys. How exactly do you crunch the numbers like this? I would like to know because I am in the process of designing my own DIY cab. I know the thermal power handling is 500w, more than I need, but I'd like to figure out the mechanical power handling also. I have all of the T-S specs and cab specs.
Do I need a special program? And is it free, or is there a free equivalent?
 

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