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Rewiring a cabinet

Dec 14, 2008
1,273
77
41
Florianopolis - Brazil
Disclosures
Endorsing: Copetti Guitars
So I got a sealed 210 cab in a trade and it rattles and slightly distorts when I play certain notes.

The cones look great, no tears or holes in the front or back.

One thing I noticed when I took those speakers out is that the wires, jack and connectors look thin/cheap.

I want to redo the wiring but I don't even know where to start.

What kind of wire should I get?

Can I use a regular 1/4 instrument jack for the input?

I did a search, but nothing this basic is covered in the FAQs...




_______________________________________________
UPDATE:


Since the wiring harness most likely isn't the main problem with this box, I decided to refurbish the inside, adding some bracing.
 
Anything bigger than 16awg wire is a waste of money, the runs of wire are not long enough. Any good quality 1/4" jack is fine. there is no different jack for inputs and outputs (instrument/speaker).

Your rattles and distortion are likely loose wood panels/air leaks that need to be reglued in the cab. Does the cab use any braces to keep the panels solid?
 
OK, so if wire is not a problem, could small connectors instead of plain solder cause any problems? The wires (speaker end) are secured with those small electrical connectors and they feel kinda loose...

I did not notice any bracing, there's insulation all over the interior walls. I will check it the next time I open it up.
 
So I will check the inside of the cab.

I'm ruling out the grille because the rattle was there even when it was out.

I'll post pictures if I find something odd.

Thanks guys, you saved me from dealing with my old enemy the soldering iron :D
 
So I will check the inside of the cab.

I'm ruling out the grille because the rattle was there even when it was out.

I'll post pictures if I find something odd.

Thanks guys, you saved me from dealing with my old enemy the soldering iron :D

If you have a rubber mallet you can use it to "pound" on the cab panels to find a "lose" panel that needs re-glue. The panels should sound solid and not have any lingering tone/rattle. Air leaks are tougher to locate.
 
This is the cabinet:

210bs_06.jpg


It would look good with a Micro CL head, but since I have a Micro VR I already ordered some silver/black/blue grill cloth from fliptops.net to make another grill...

Lets get to the innards:

It turns out I did have to heat up my soldering iron...

This time I disassembled the cab thoroughly and found some surprises:

210bs_01.jpg


The jack wires just went thru the lugs and were twisted. There was a little drop of solder but it wasn't holding anything anymore.

And this:

210bs_02.jpg


Same thing here, plus electrical tape. :rollno:

So I grabbed my soldering iron and fixed the solder joints.

It is all working, I did the 9v battery trick to check polarity (I marked the lug terminals + and - so I won't mess up while reassembling).

The final impedance is around 4.5Ω (the cabinet is marked 4Ω, each speaker reached around 8.7 - 9Ω in my multimeter).

210bs_03.jpg


If you have a rubber mallet you can use it to "pound" on the cab panels to find a "lose" panel that needs re-glue. The panels should sound solid and not have any lingering tone/rattle. Air leaks are tougher to locate.

Now about the box. It all looks and feels sturdy.

I did the rubber mallet pounding and it sounds like an empty wooden box should (very dry in the corners/joints, "open" and "resonating" when hit in the middle of the panels).

Nothing sounds/feels like it's loose. Thanks for the tip!

I did notice a few issues: as you can see in the next picture, there are 4 mounting holes on the top for the matching head of this cabinet:

210bs_04.jpg


Those holes went thru the wood and there are t-nuts on the other side. A rather small air leak but I decided to plug them up. I found some dowels that fit just right, hammered them in and dropped a bit of glue on top.

Interior of the cab:

210bs_05.jpg


The lining doesn't cover all the walls, the corners are bare wood as well as the back of the baffle.

I will get some of that lining tomorrow to patch up the corners. Is it necessary to glue some lining on the back of the baffle?
 
Don't cover the baffle board (back side of the board the speaker mounts to). From the "sound" of the panels it could use a brace from the baffle board to the rear panel at a minimum. 3/4" round dowel can be used if space is tight. When you tap the panels it should be tight and high pitched, not bassy or resonate.
 
Now about the box. It all looks and feels sturdy.

I did the rubber mallet pounding and it sounds like an empty wooden box should (very dry in the corners/joints, "open" and "resonating" when hit in the middle of the panels).

Nothing sounds/feels like it's loose. Thanks for the tip!

What does the phrase "open and resonating" mean? A well-built cabinet should have a very dead sound like a solid block of wood. If I were to describe a cabinet with those terms then I would want to add bracing to "close" it down.

This could be merely a case of a difference in terminology so please clarify. :)
 
I agree with the vets (why not?; they taught me), that it is not wiring. There is an electrical connection or there would be no sound; if your speakers are cutting in and out, then maybe squeeze your connectors tighter and reconnect.
From pics, I can't see the wood joints in the cab. I would inspect them. There's expanding glues like gorilla glue that you can apply allowing gravity to suck it between wood panels (Sir Issac Newton, in the house!). B-string's bracing could be the cure, for sure.

curious to know your findings,
fnord!
 
I will surely check all those things you pointed out tomorrow!

B-string, you said that the brace connecting the front and rear panels could be a round dowel. Do you mean like a double bass sound post?

Forgot to mention before: there's no bracing inside this cab.

Tomorrow after work I will try to post a video with all that knocking on wood. :D