Ritter 6 vs Roscoe 6 - Opinions?

[MODNY]

true..

of all the 6 strings why did u pick these 2?

why not fodera? f bass? smith? lawrence?

so many great builders.

kinals are Great instruments aswell!

 

[neurotictim]

...or Alembic...?

 

[smakbass]

I dunno if it were me and I was moving to a 6 string id try to find a used one or something reasonably priced and play that for awhile til I was sure id want to play a 6er long term then bite the bullet on something.

 

[jordanm]

You don't really seem worried about the price so I'm not sure why everyone is so focused on that. So moving on to differences between the instruments and your personal tastes!

First if you have certain scale length or string spacing tough I think both your choices are 35" correct? Which is pretty standard. The Roscoes do come with a fixed spacing at 18mm (again correct me if I'm wrong) and the Ritters are adjustable, so plus one for Ritter on that unless you want 18mm or it doesnt matter to you.

Both are are going to be excellent quality instruments, and both will be bolt on with various wood choices. So tone wise you want to look more at electronics they typically use since buying used you dont know what wood your getting or new you have your own choice. If your in love with the Ritter's electonics package the Roscoe will be a bit different. I know they are offering Nordies now but the typical Roscoe vibe is Barts. So if you haven't played one definately try it out. Jen's will still use Barts by request I believe, but you would be hard pressed to get his electronics in a Roscoe.

From what I've played the neck profiles will be somewhat similar. IIRC Ritters 6 is a little fatter than a Roscoe. Also a Ritter would typically have a nitro finish on the neck while Roscoe would typically be oil. Just some things to think of.

Both are excellent quality instruments, but my advice would basically come down to... If you want more of what you've got ie a Ritter with an extra string, go for that. Keep in mind you can also change up woods and get a different sound. If your looking to ad a string and get a bass with a diff vibe and your digging the Roscoe, go with that!

 

[Jules Forcella]

I would go 100% with the Roscoe - ok I don't have experiences with those basses but I've had a Ritter and the only thing I can say about this is : NO GO

You guys have so many great luthiers over there - get yourself one of those

 

[oversoul]

I have visited the shop numerous times and I can tell you first hand, these basses are hand made. These guys are amazing to watch. What else is amazing, they are built here in the US. The lower priced Century Standard basses are made by the same guys that make the Century Signature, LG and SKB. When you get a chance to meet these guys in person and get to know them more, it brings more to the meaning of owning a Roscoe. Ok, sorry for the rant. Buy a Roscoe!

If you go to the Roscoe site, under the gallery you can see pictures of some of the hand work.

You can also go to YouTube and see some of the work. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=roscoe+guitars&search_type=

I'm sorry to Gard, I may have been misunderstood, I wasn't dissing Roscoes, hell I like the looks a lot! and again, even if Roscoes were 100% built by a CNC, I'd still in no way doubt of their quality, and know for a fact that the machine only does the job to a certain extent.

 

[hasadari]

I thought about a Fodera, but they are just too expensive. I redently looked at a used Fodera 5 which went on ebay for $5700+. A lot for a used 5'er IMHO. I looked at RItter and Roscoe because I thought that I don't succeed in making the transition from 5s to 6 at least there is a sufficient following of each that I could likely resell.

I tried two Smith 6s - they were entirely different - one was great, the other was just uncomfortable. As far a Lawrence, I have no experience with them.

I appreciate all of the advice and the suggestions.

 

[Bassflute]

I thought about a Fodera, but they are just too expensive. I redently looked at a used Fodera 5 which went on ebay for $5700+. A lot for a used 5'er IMHO. I looked at RItter and Roscoe because I thought that I don't succeed in making the transition from 5s to 6 at least there is a sufficient following of each that I could likely resell.

I tried two Smith 6s - they were entirely different - one was great, the other was just uncomfortable. As far a Lawrence, I have no experience with them.

I appreciate all of the advice and the suggestions.

A really nice bass.

Cheers,
Cameron

 

[DaveAceofBass]

Sounds like you need to try a lot of more basses before you decide.

Here's a suggestion:

1) Make a mental or written list of everything you think you want in your next bass. Electronics, neck profile, woods, price, styling, finish, etc., etc.

2) Write down everything you don't like about every bass you've ever played. Think about what you'd have the builder you choose do differently.

3) Consider the best things of each of the basses you've ever played. What is it about these instruments that you really liked?

4) Once you've compiled your ideas and/or list, start considering builders that could make you what you want. Call them and have a chat about your desires. Do you get a good vibe on the phone? Will this be someone you'll enjoy communicating with throughout the process? Were they rude or nice on the phone? Did they seem willing do fulfill your requests for a reasonable price and withing a timeframe you're willing to wait? If so, you've found your luthier.

5) Finally, don't expect perfection unless you can go to the luthier's shop regularly. Handmade instruments can have minor problems from time to time. Miscommunications happen alot. Sometimes you'll think something but the luthier will think you meant something else. To try to avoid this, be very clear about any custom requests and keep emails and phone calls with details on the instrument short and to the point. This can probably eliminate the confusion.

Good luck!

 

[Munjibunga]

This Roscoe has your name on it. Ritter's quality is top-notch, but I can't get around their funky shape.

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[yoyossarian]

I owned a roscoe skb 6 string for about 2 years and while I really loved that bass, when I found the modulus I am currently playing I made the trade within 2 weeks and haven't looked back. the tone of the modulus was much more defined not to mention not having to tune as oftwen as I did with the roscoe. now my roscoe may not have been the greatest roscoe ever built, but if I was going to choose between a ritter (which by looks alone, I friggin love) I would have to try out the ritter...

in reality though, I think my next 6 will be either handmade or an elrick...

 

[hasbeen]

I personally don't care if a builder uses CNC or not. ...I happen to be a nut for "tight and right". I want my straights to be straight, rounds round and edges clean.

If the builder can achieve this with hands and routers only...cool. If they need CNC, I don't see how that detracts from the instrument.

Anway, to answer the original poster, I love Roscoe. Because of my gig, I visit an awful lot of high end pro shops and bass shops. Upon a visit to Gelb to demo some amps, I left with two Roscoes.

Wonderful, wonderful basses.

 

[hasbeen]

holy, holy cow. That is the best bass pic posted in a long time.

I already have a Smith BSR6-EG and an MTD 635-24.... must resist....must resist.

This Roscoe has your name on it. Ritter's quality is top-notch, but I can't get around their funky shape.

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[Nine-and-three-Quarters]

I've had them both and Roscoes are hands down the better bass IMHO. Ritter to me are more a work of art. I've owned every and I do mean every high-end boutique bass on the marker Ken Smith, Fodera, Roscoe, Dingwall, you name it, if its a reputable builder then I probably had his bass at one point and time. And my conclusion as of right now is that Roscoe 6 string basses and Sukop 6 string basses are the best playing and sounding basses I've ever laid hands on. I give the Sukop bass the slight edge on playablity and far as feel and action goes. Overall you can set the action very low on both. I have my action currently set at 2/32"nds on the "b" string and 1/16th" at the "c," all without the slightest of fretbuzz. Of course me having a light touch helps also but that Sukop basically plays itself!.

 

[Tom Howland]

I've played three Ritters, and two Roscoes.

There both very well made and sounding basses.

Is one better than the other? (apples or oranges)

I do feel Ritters are way over priced.

You could buy two Roscoes for the price of one Ritter.

To each his own.

 

[hasadari]

Great pic. Love the the neck.

 

[Gard]

You don't really seem worried about the price so I'm not sure why everyone is so focused on that. So moving on to differences between the instruments and your personal tastes!

First if you have certain scale length or string spacing tough I think both your choices are 35" correct? Which is pretty standard. The Roscoes do come with a fixed spacing at 18mm (again correct me if I'm wrong) and the Ritters are adjustable, so plus one for Ritter on that unless you want 18mm or it doesnt matter to you.

Both are are going to be excellent quality instruments, and both will be bolt on with various wood choices. So tone wise you want to look more at electronics they typically use since buying used you dont know what wood your getting or new you have your own choice. If your in love with the Ritter's electonics package the Roscoe will be a bit different. I know they are offering Nordies now but the typical Roscoe vibe is Barts. So if you haven't played one definately try it out. Jen's will still use Barts by request I believe, but you would be hard pressed to get his electronics in a Roscoe.

From what I've played the neck profiles will be somewhat similar. IIRC Ritters 6 is a little fatter than a Roscoe. Also a Ritter would typically have a nitro finish on the neck while Roscoe would typically be oil. Just some things to think of.

Both are excellent quality instruments, but my advice would basically come down to... If you want more of what you've got ie a Ritter with an extra string, go for that. Keep in mind you can also change up woods and get a different sound. If your looking to ad a string and get a bass with a diff vibe and your digging the Roscoe, go with that!

OK, I am not trying to sound defensive here (and I know no one is "attacking" us or Ritter), but since so much inaccurate info is flying around (about BOTH instruments), I feel a need to step in and set the record straight....

Our neck is not oil finished. It has a three layer finish process - starting with a vinyl sealer for moisture barrier, then a urethane for "build", finally a nitrocellulose coat on the back of the neck for "feel". The headstock is polyester, to get a shine that matches the body.

Our string spacing is 18.3 mm on a 6 for standard, the Hipshot bridge we use allows for SOME adjustment in string width. As for the Ritter having adjustable string spacing, great, but if you go too wide, the strings will just hang off the sides of the fingerboard, so spacing on any bass (for width at least) is restrained by neck size! (I believe Jens does 19mm standard?). Again, it's down to feel, and we do offer 19mm spacing as an option for those that feel they MUST have it (say like me! ), and it is not an excessive upcharge.

We do offer some options for pickups. Our standard Bart pickup is a bit dark and compressed for some guys, so you can either get the Nordies or for NO UPCHARGE get the Bart CB's (which sound a lot like Nordstrand Dual Coils to my ears! ). While I agree that pickups and preamps color the tone to a degree, I also know from a great deal of experience (every Roscoe that has left the shop in the past 3 years [WOW! I just hit my 3rd anniversary here!!! ]passes through my QC station and is played for at least 5-10 minutes) that wood choices have as much or more of an effect on overall tone.

Again, I think Jens makes a great bass, so the OP can't make a BAD choice here.

 

[Gard]

I'm sorry to Gard, I may have been misunderstood, I wasn't dissing Roscoes, hell I like the looks a lot! and again, even if Roscoes were 100% built by a CNC, I'd still in no way doubt of their quality, and know for a fact that the machine only does the job to a certain extent.

No apology necessary, I wasn't "defending" as much as "clarifying".

I just want to be certain that people have correct information whenever possible, not supposition or guess.

If anyone ever has any question at all, please feel free to just PM, e-mail, or go down to the Roscoe forum and ask away - it's not just my job to help you guys, it's my PASSION to do so.

 

[Gard]

Sounds like you need to try a lot of more basses before you decide.

Here's a suggestion:

1) Make a mental or written list of everything you think you want in your next bass. Electronics, neck profile, woods, price, styling, finish, etc., etc.

2) Write down everything you don't like about every bass you've ever played. Think about what you'd have the builder you choose do differently.

3) Consider the best things of each of the basses you've ever played. What is it about these instruments that you really liked?

4) Once you've compiled your ideas and/or list, start considering builders that could make you what you want. Call them and have a chat about your desires. Do you get a good vibe on the phone? Will this be someone you'll enjoy communicating with throughout the process? Were they rude or nice on the phone? Did they seem willing do fulfill your requests for a reasonable price and withing a timeframe you're willing to wait? If so, you've found your luthier.

5) Finally, don't expect perfection unless you can go to the luthier's shop regularly. Handmade instruments can have minor problems from time to time. Miscommunications happen alot. Sometimes you'll think something but the luthier will think you meant something else. To try to avoid this, be very clear about any custom requests and keep emails and phone calls with details on the instrument short and to the point. This can probably eliminate the confusion.

Good luck!

Excellent advice.

And Dave, if you've only had experience with an LG, you REALLY need to make the 90 minute drive up 85 to Greensboro. I'd be happy to let you check out my Century Sigs, and if you time it right, there should be one or two SKB's around as well as Century Standards.


Oh, and Munji, that was just not nice...that bass is purdy...

 

[Bryan R. Tyler]

in reality though, I think my next 6 will be either handmade or an elrick...

Elricks ARE handmade.