Ritter 6 vs Roscoe 6 - Opinions?

[climb]

If we introduce Sukop into the discussion--

Well, I can tell you a little something about Sukops. I've had three and played five. These are fantastic instruments; you need to try one because looking at it won't tell you the difference (neither will a soundclip). I've owned a fretted four string, and now a singlecut fretless 4 and doublecut fretted 6. Overall, these basses really shine in the playability factor and a strong basic tone. The electronics are straightforward and not as versatile as some, but the instrument doesn't need much, to be honest. The tone has a pretty strong mid-emphasis that I find responds well to bass/treble boost. The design/aesthetics are more "controversial" than Roscoe, but much more "conservative" than Ritter. Sukops are pretty rare on the used market, and sell well. IMO, in terms of bass/dollar ratio, nothing beats a secondhand Sukop.

Keep in mind--these are all extraordinary, world-class instruments. Hard to criticize any of them. In the end, it probably just depends how picky you are. You may need to own all three to figure out which one works best for you. Also, for what it's worth, if scale length matters for you, most of these will be 35" scale instruments, which doesn't work as well for me--both my Sukop 6er and my Ritter fless 6er are 34", but these are not too common.

 

[Jerry J]

You can also go to YouTube and see some of the work. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=roscoe+guitars&search_type=

Thank you for the link. It was very interesting and enlightening.

Gard it sure is good to see you around.

 

[jhoffmann33]

I apologize if I offended anyone about my feelings on wood. To each his or her own. Enjoy your wood.

 

[DaveAceofBass]

Excellent advice.

And Dave, if you've only had experience with an LG, you REALLY need to make the 90 minute drive up 85 to Greensboro. I'd be happy to let you check out my Century Sigs, and if you time it right, there should be one or two SKB's around as well as Century Standards.


Oh, and Munji, that was just not nice...that bass is purdy...

Thanks...someday I will drop by when I'm at the Bass Violin Shop. However, with a new Kinal and a Linc Luthier being repaired, I'm out of the market to buy anything unless I unload one of my lesser played basses.

 

[DaveAceofBass]

If we introduce Sukop into the discussion--

Well, I can tell you a little something about Sukops. I've had three and played five. These are fantastic instruments; you need to try one because looking at it won't tell you the difference (neither will a soundclip). I've owned a fretted four string, and now a singlecut fretless 4 and doublecut fretted 6. Overall, these basses really shine in the playability factor and a strong basic tone. The electronics are straightforward and not as versatile as some, but the instrument doesn't need much, to be honest. The tone has a pretty strong mid-emphasis that I find responds well to bass/treble boost. The design/aesthetics are more "controversial" than Roscoe, but much more "conservative" than Ritter. Sukops are pretty rare on the used market, and sell well. IMO, in terms of bass/dollar ratio, nothing beats a secondhand Sukop.

Keep in mind--these are all extraordinary, world-class instruments. Hard to criticize any of them. In the end, it probably just depends how picky you are. You may need to own all three to figure out which one works best for you. Also, for what it's worth, if scale length matters for you, most of these will be 35" scale instruments, which doesn't work as well for me--both my Sukop 6er and my Ritter fless 6er are 34", but these are not too common.

I see there has been a few posts regarding the Sukop. I just wanted to second that opinion, they are really great basses. I've tried a few at Rudy's in NYC and at the Atlanta Bass Gallery, and I was really impressed. Visually they didn't appeal to me, but when I picked one up and played it...all I can say is WOW! They also sound killer when you plug them in. Definitely worth considering, but don't rule out Kinal!

 

[DaveAceofBass]

I have played Roscoe basses for the past eight or so years. I have played on three different SKB 3006s and one LG 3005. My current is a SKB 3006, maple neck maple board with a Spanish cedar body and maple top. I have not played a Ritter, very cool looking basses though. My spin on things is going to be a bit different.

Roscoe Guitars is a great company and the whole team is great to work with, the team boarders on genius. I will in the future get more instruments from them. However make sure YOU pick exactly what woods you would like in the bass. The thing to remember is just because a piece of wood would make a kick butt coffee table does not mean that it should be put in or on a bass. I have no problem with a company using new nontraditional woods in a bass but some IMO do not work.

This should put a bee in Gard’s bonnet! But the idea of using Wenge in a musical instrument is beyond me. It is a junk wood that was used to make palettes out of in Germany; I was stationed in Germany and had a few German friends. Gard I do not believe that you wenge neck will last as my all maple neck… what would you like to bet?

Walnut is also another loser IMO in the woods not to put in a bass. I have used a Spector 5 and a Smith 6 that where both constructed out of walnut and a maple top with maple necks and rosewood fingerboards. Both bass had them same brittle, trebly nasty sound. Where as my all maple, except for the fingerboard, Spector sounds incredible in comparison to the other two.

Also, be aware that the shape of a 5 string Roscoe is completely different than a 6 string, IMO. I actually preferred the neck of my LG 3005 to my SKB 3006. I liked the more pronounced D shape it had. I don’t like super thin necks… not that the SKB is super thin just not as comfy as the LG neck.

The reason I don’t have the LG any longer is because I mainly sit when I play now and it was impossible to play seated for any length of time. The ergonomics of the bass is also very important to keep in mind to. Do sit when you play? Do you stand? Does the bass need to be light in weight or do you prefer a heavy instrument. And don’t forget the electronics.

Walnut and Wenge are fantastic woods to have a bass made out of. Wenge is killer for necks and Walnut is good almost anywhere. If you don't believe me, ask Ken Smith. He uses tons of Walnut, and Mike Tobias uses alot of Wenge. These two luthiers are highly respected so I doubt they are wrong. Plus, I have Wenge and Walnut on my basses, and they look, sound and feel incredible.

 

[DaveAceofBass]

If we introduce Sukop into the discussion (whether SC or DC), does this change anyone's feelings on the matter?

I've tried both. The Atlanta Bass Gallery had a semi-hollow SC that was just amazing. They might still have it. I've tried other SCs and hated them (even though I loved the way the look), but this one smoked. I've tried some solid body DC at Rudy's and they were sweet too.

 

[hasadari]

I have to go to Rudy's tomorrow and try it out.

 

[jordanm]

OK, I am not trying to sound defensive here (and I know no one is "attacking" us or Ritter), but since so much inaccurate info is flying around (about BOTH instruments), I feel a need to step in and set the record straight....

Like I said feel free to correct me, no worries. Was just trying to point out some things that might help him find a bass. The comparison between these two really is very interesting. Would be a tough choice!