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Rookie defretting / fretless bass conversion...

FretlessFatty

FretlessFatty

Nov 23, 2012
386
346
#1
Okay, okay. I'm the latest loser to try to convert a fretted to fretless without really having any skill whatsoever.

So, I got the frets out. A little chipping, but nothing that seems horrendous (to me).

I'm too lazy and unskilled to put in veneers. I kind of want to use wood filler instead.

Question: Should I sand the neck a bit before I put in the wood filler, or should I not bother until after I've put in the wood filler? :confused:
 
#2
IMO, you shouldn't use wood filler. It has no structural strength, therefore makes a poor substitute for the metal frets that were there, and also a poor sub for veneer.

If you can use an x-acto knife, wood glue and sandpaper, you can put in veneers.

If you need assistance, I have defretted 3 basses (only one for me) and all are still in use.

It's not difficult, but you have to do it right.

wraub
 
#4
I defretted a bass and used wood filler. Seems to be holding up ok. Using veneer is better, though.

When I did mine, I made sure my neck was as straight as possible before I did any work (and after defretting). I cleaned out the fret slots and lightly sanded any rough edges before adding the filler.



I highly suggest that you use veneer, though.
 
#5
FretlessFatty said:
Okay, okay. I'm the latest loser to try to convert a fretted to fretless without really having any skill whatsoever.

So, I got the frets out. A little chipping, but nothing that seems horrendous (to me).

I'm too lazy and unskilled to put in veneers. I kind of want to use wood filler instead.

Question: Should I sand the neck a bit before I put in the wood filler, or should I not bother until after I've put in the wood filler? :confused:
Click to expand...

You can use epoxy- if you want it to be a specific color, you can use sanding dust from a matching/contrasting wood, mixed with the resin. Remember- the dust will be lighter in color than when it's mixed with the resin. I would clean up any chips, though. That being the case, if there's any chance that you might want to go back to frets, you'll want to make sure the slots aren't wider than what the frets need.

You'll need to clean the wood really well before anything is glued to it.
 
#10
venneer is definately the best way to go forward, have recently rescued several necks from people who tried to use wood filler / epoxy even one that used super glue, It just looks a mess and with filler it can dry and crumble out if its not coated with some sort of protection, but if you want to make a proper job i would steam the finger board off and replace it totally
 
#16
Yah my first fretless conversion I used wood filler.

But it was a poopy bass and didnt really care.

it held up for awhile then started to crack out in some spots.

I would re apply more filler once in awhile then I just stopped using the bass.

I think I remember doing a light sand first to clean up the de fret
then of course sanded again after filling.

you would not want to see that bass now...I sorta super modded it to a noise maker. so point is if you care for the bass your using do it right.
 
#17
BogeyBass said:
Yah my first fretless conversion I used wood filler.

But it was a poopy bass and didnt really care.

it held up for awhile then started to crack out in some spots.

I would re apply more filler once in awhile then I just stopped using the bass.
Click to expand...

Well, I couldn't resist. I used wood filler -- mind you, this is a beater of a bass. But now that I've done it once, I see that it really isn't that bad. If (probably when) I do this again, I'll try the veneers. Now I have the confidence that I could probably do it.

In the meantime, I'm letting the last coat cure... when it's all assembled and set up, I'll report back.
 
#18
Use veneers its quicker than you think and worth the trouble ,, i used pecan veneers on my first defret its rough but usable and with a rosewood neck the pecan blends really awesome,,the color of the pecan varies with each veneer which i thought was cool.
 
#19
I can understand how the veneers make for a better job on many levels but unless they were installed as an interference fit, I don't see how they could offer much to the structural integrity.
For example, if each filler had .010" of clearance, wouldn't the overall effect still allow for fingerboard movement?
Also, does a thin fingerboard really offer that much stability?
Have never defretted but am considering doing so with a funky ESP neck that will only get so straight.
 
#20
Jim C said:
I can understand how the veneers make for a better job on many levels but unless they were installed as an interference fit, I don't see how they could offer much to the structural integrity.
For example, if each filler had .010" of clearance, wouldn't the overall effect still allow for fingerboard movement?
Also, does a thin fingerboard really offer that much stability?
Have never defretted but am considering doing so with a funky ESP neck that will only get so straight.
Click to expand...

If there was .010" of clearance in each slot there would absolutely be some bowing.

Veneer typically is available in two sizes: 1/28" or .035" and 1/40" or .025" Average fret slot is .022. Some are smaller, some are larger. In most cases, the veneer will have to be scraped or sanded to allow for an easy "press" fit. (Not to be confused with a machine press fit which sometimes requires a lot of equipment and/or heat.)

Thicker veneer can be used to correct problem necks that pull into to too much front bow. The neck is placed into a back bow and the thick veneer is installed. This causes a wedging effect and takes out the front bow.
 

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