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Room size for a studio

I’m going to be putting in a 20x50 metal building to hold a shop and a studio. Back of building will be partitioned off and dedicated to music and my digital 3D artwork. Whole building will have a 6in concrete floor. And a peaked roof.
What size room would be good for doing some recording solo and maybe with a 4piece band.I can make the room wider. The length will be 20ft but then the shop gets smaller if I get too wide.
 
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Exciting! There's a pretty big difference between solo recording making it work with a 4 piece band. Depending on what type of recording styles you're after, room size is certainly a consideration for basic utility of the space, but you'll really need to factor in dampening, baffling, and micing. I've seen some really slick engineers do amazing stuff in small spaces, but I've also been in large spaces that sound like :poop: If I were you, I'd map out (maybe with cardboard) the smallest area you think can be functional for a 4 piece, and then figure out how you'd handle the recording aspect of it. I assume you're going to treat the room?
 
Yes the room will be treated. No specific styles of music I like almost every style. Mostly rock of some sort though.But still have to figure out an approximate size then use REW program to fine tune it with treatments. Whatever they may be. One end of the room will be for band/instruments/amps/mics The room will be sound proofed.spray foam insulation on metal panels siding/roof,hat channels dual layers x rated drywall green glue etc etc etc. heating and cooling will be from split pump type device lower noise. All of the cabling will be hard wired in.Zero windows one door that goes in the shop from the studio maybe. Shops going to get similar treatment but not as aggressive. Both spaces will have an industrial look. With ridged pipe conduit for wiring everything.
 
Neat! Given your 20' depth limit, I think the minimum I'd be comfortable with for a 4 piece would be 12' wide. That's assuming everyone's got a reasonable if not minimal gear foot print, the volume is low to moderate, and you've got room to baffle off the drums and amps from each other. You're not going to get great isolation but you should be able to get a quality live sound. What's the ceiling height? I'm assuming you'll have a desk/recording gear at the other end of the room, but won't be actively monitoring while recording?
 
Almost decided the wall partition will be 16 ft. So the whole room will be 20ft long 16ft wide. Along 1 of the 16 ft walls will be the live area and directly across from that will be my desk area. The ceiling will ascend from the 16ft wall starting at 8ft ending at the peak which will be 10 ft tall.
At first this will be my solo music/art room. Planning on getting ppl to jam with maybe record said ppl. And yes I do have a repurposed desk but once all the wood shops tools are in place I’m building a specific one just for the room. I must have been a real good hubby this year the wife bought me a focusrite 4i4 to replace an eleven rack plus a nektar t49 keyboard and a set of kali monitors.
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I have a purpose built studio in my house , 10ft ceilings GOLDEN RATIO control room with bass traps / diffusers etc. sounds great, I used a Grandma room for tracking 12x12x10 ( maybe bigger ) kind of a mess but you get the idea , IF you can ? separate the control room !!! your mixes will thank you. In the tracking room I used foam on 2 walls to control the reflections , sounds GREAT , ratios are VERY important build to the proper ones. get a reference mic to shoot the room.
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There are a number of “golden ratios” that provide predictable results. I built mine as big as I could fit onto my property and just went with it. You’ll need to decide what ratio of shop to studio you’re comfortable with and adjust accordingly.

Regardless, step one should be to purchase the most recent edition of Rod Gervais’ book (Build it Like the Pros) and read it twice before making any decisions. That’s not a joke. It’s an invaluable resource that explains things in a way most folks can understand.
 
THX for visiting this thread. You seem to have the patience of a saint dealing with your builds “problems”. I don’t foresee near as much problems as you went through. I did look up the golden rule of height and width height and length 1.6/2.6 and it didn’t work with cathedral style ceiling’s. Hopefully this book sheds more light on the subject. I’d really like to retain as much shop space as I can and still have enough space for the music side.
As soon as I’m done writing this post I’ll be searching for places to purchase the Rod Gervais’ book for sure. Building isn’t going in till later this year or beginning of next yr so I have time to do more research. And to submit various documents to twp zoning if any plus get site prepped for approximately 140 tons of stone for driveway and electric companies requirements plus the slab pour. THX for visiting this thread.
 
You'll get a lot of info about how to finish the interior of your building, but if I were building that, the first thing I'd think about is:

I have a metal building - a big tin can, essentially. Before I start to build inside of this thing, how can I damp the metal outside so it won't rattle and buzz when loud music is playing? If you don't do that from the start, and you build things inside, and then have rattles when you start to play, the fix will be much tougher than if you deal with it from the get go.
 
I'm setting up a 12' (wide) x 15' (deep) space with an asymmetrical vaulted ceiling (the peak is not at the center of the room) At the far end the wall is 8' high and at the near end the wall is 10' high. The peak is about 13'. This room is barely big enough for our 4 piece jazz group (in which I play keys).

I have a split/ductless A/C system. I turn it off when recording. If it's 117 outside, I probably won't be recording.

I have an adjacent 7' x 9' space that is my "office". The dividing wall is 8.5" thick and has opposing solid doors. It's not truly isolated, but it will work for my recording needs (such as they are). So I'm ready for the time when we add our vocalist ;-}
 
3.5 in of closed cell spray foam will stiffen up and strengthen the whole whole structure
Be careful if you’re attempting to sound isolate the two spaces from each other. High density insulation in the stud bays, be it rockwool or spray foam will reduce low frequency isolation compared to good ol’ pink fluffy insulation.
 
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The entire space will function as an acoustic system. Decouple your room from the metal building... Hat channel is good... Resilient isolators and channel is better... Completely isolated free standing room within a room on its own isolated slab... Best.
If you are building the metal structure and pouring a slab, have a slab that is isolated for the studio. It should be physically separate and decoupled. You can use neoprene foam rubber mats in the gaps.
Build the freestanding structure within the space on the isolated slab... Do not attach it to the building.
If you can, use good room ratios... There are many. The Bolt ratios are good... There are tons though. There are calculators on line... One is here.
AcousticsFirst.com - Room Ratio Calculator
You can separate the space into control and live room. 20 x 16 coule be sized down, but if you do that, keep the ratios good for both spaces if you can. Also, may consider using isolates slabs for the two spaces - building 2 separate spaces. This may be overkill for you though.
If you use a larger single space, build some gobos to help isolate for recording and tune the space for mixing.. (block reflective spaces, add diffusion, etc.) Gobos can be absorbers on one side and diffusers on the other for more flexibility.
Consider variable/adjustable acoustic treatments for a single space. A live room and a mix room have two separate room requirements. Live room should have more energy and less absorption. Reverb and reflections in a life room give the recording character, allow the musicians to play "together", and can give acoustic instruments room to breathe. Drums, acoustic guitars, and even vocals can benefit from a little bit of life. This being said... Bass should be controlled. Room ratios are there mostly to control low frequency performance - Modes and nodes. Add traps to increase the effectiveness of those ratios. Traps can be tuned or broadband. Tuned may be better if you want to keep the live feel. Tuned traps generally limit high frequency absorption, and focus on the bass. The remaining treatments should be a mix of diffusers and broadband absorbers to balance the rest of the frequency range... REW will help you track down which frequencies need to have tuned traps, broadband absorption, or reduced flutter.
Corners should be truncated, walls non-parallel is best... There are many different shapes you should consider. Parallel reflections accentuate modes and flutter, as the reflections cause a buildup in the space between them. Turn your corners into traps... Build a slatted 45° angle slotted screen, pack it with fluff in the back and higher density fiberglass in the front. If you can hang a layer of mass loaded vinyl in there as well, you can increase the performance.
Corners are the devil .
The are pressure zones where bass builds up, and reflection sources. If you have even stood in a room with mirrors in the corner (both walls with optical mirrors and joining at a 90° angle) - no matter where you stand in that room, you will see your reflection in that mirror. This is due to reflection geometry and sound does the same thing. The multiple different densities of material, fluff, mlv, and fiberglass board behind a slat wall if very effective. The slats give you Helmholtz cavity which can be tuned by spacing the slats. The mlv is limp mass absorber. And different densities of fiberglass remove more energy as sound looses energy every time it changes mediums.
You should have ceiling treatment... Absorption cloud over the mix positio, absorbers behind monitors and at first reflections points - though some are playing with diffusion at first reflections. Chips Davis has been writing about that recently.
If you can put variable treatment in the main live area, you can adjust the sound... Absorbers which can be covered, or flipped to be reflectors or diffusers, will give you the ability to change the sonic signature of the space for recording, mixing, or just jamming.
The mix position should be free from distructive reflections and flutter, and should be diffuse to the rear. Live space should be free from harsh flutter... It should be diffuse, have controlled early reflections, but maintain a character to the reverb.

And now that my vehicle is warmed up, I should drive to work.

Have a lovely day all. Stay warm. Stay safe.
And good luck.