I’m in the metal building is going to make it difficult camp . Not sure what sort of weather conditions you face but metal buildings are more subject to those than traditional wood framing ones are . You also have a concrete floor to deal with too . It’ll take some real planning and much research to deal with your inherent issues and lack of overall space - given the desire to also have a workshop there . Best of luck and please follow up with a post covering your eventual work as it will be very interesting to see how it goes …. Kelly
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Room size for a studio
- Thread starter wildman2
- Start date
Make sure you understand what kind of foam to use if you go that route. Fire rating is a serious consideration with spray foam.
JeezyMcNuggles
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- Feb 23, 2018
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If you can make it bigger, make it bigger. 50x50. Then you'd have two 25x50 rooms.
Or, 40x50. Then you'd have two 20x50 rooms
Lots of good info in here so far. The book mentioned earlier is already in the wife’s amazon cart.
As mentioned earlier in the thread I’m not a millionaire so a larger building may not be in the running. Reason for the shop area is mainly for making basses and guitars,kitchen cabinets and other stuff like kitchen tables bookcases and maybe a double bass or two.
When I start contacting spray foam installers I will inquire about the fire rating.
A lot of stuff has to happen before building is even close to being put up. Think bulldozers/bobcat to level and clear approximately 100ft x100ft plus the building area. Graveled underlayment and tamped.
Not to mention what ever county,twp,electric company has up their sleeves.
I will be posting pics of the process step by step.
As mentioned earlier in the thread I’m not a millionaire so a larger building may not be in the running. Reason for the shop area is mainly for making basses and guitars,kitchen cabinets and other stuff like kitchen tables bookcases and maybe a double bass or two.
When I start contacting spray foam installers I will inquire about the fire rating.
A lot of stuff has to happen before building is even close to being put up. Think bulldozers/bobcat to level and clear approximately 100ft x100ft plus the building area. Graveled underlayment and tamped.
Not to mention what ever county,twp,electric company has up their sleeves.
I will be posting pics of the process step by step.
Well I put a p bass together from a dirt cheap kit a little while ago and I love it.there is a thread in the luthiers sub forum.Stepsonish and several other ppl wanted to buy it as soon as they seen it and heard it. He would take it to his friend to do some bass tracks for them.Now I have the bug big time to start making them from scratch raw wood to finished product.and have had the bug for awhile, but no shop. Also will be making guitars for my son who plays and the stepsonish. My grandpa was teaching me how to bend wood long time ago so I figured I’d make a dbl bass in his honor. Besides I love the sound of a dbl bass. That man could build you anything. I miss him.
That book will handily beat out any information given in this thread by those of us that are amateurs, pros, or even "pros".
I can't stress its value enough. Another place to go for information from legitimate professional studio builders is the John L Sayers forum. It's a smaller forum than this one with less activity but it's frequented by a number of folks that build studios for a living that are very generous with their time in answering questions. I solved a lot of problems during my build-out that I wouldn't have even identified if it weren't for that forum. It's an excellent resource and Rod Gervais, the author of the book mentioned above, is a semi-regular poster there as well. Be sure and fill out your profile information completely or all you'll get in answer to your questions is "fill out your profile first."
Good advise !That book will handily beat out any information given in this thread by those of us that are amateurs, pros, or even "pros".
I’ll prolly ask the math savant stepsonish or my wicked math genius grandson to sus this out for me.
Last time I new this math was in 1976 junior high class. That was at least 2 dozen more concussions ago.
Last time I new this math was in 1976 junior high class. That was at least 2 dozen more concussions ago.
There is some useful information being given about choosing optimum (golden) room length/width ratios, but I believe a higher priority should be more about avoiding problematic ratios (simple, whole ratios).
It looks like you've already determined that your room length will be 20ft, which means that you want to avoid widths of 10ft (2:1), 13⅓ft (3:2), 15ft, (4:3), and a few others. Notice that a width of 12⅓ft is a "golden ratio", but if you widen the room by a mere 12" (to 13⅓ft), then you'll be afflicted with some pretty obnoxious wave interference problems.
I've put together several "serious hobbyist" music studios in the past and it's definitely a lot of work, but it's even more fun, and very rewarding, especially when you can hear how much sound quality improves after adding some carefully chosen acoustic treatments.
The best of luck to you and may you enjoy the project!
It looks like you've already determined that your room length will be 20ft, which means that you want to avoid widths of 10ft (2:1), 13⅓ft (3:2), 15ft, (4:3), and a few others. Notice that a width of 12⅓ft is a "golden ratio", but if you widen the room by a mere 12" (to 13⅓ft), then you'll be afflicted with some pretty obnoxious wave interference problems.
I've put together several "serious hobbyist" music studios in the past and it's definitely a lot of work, but it's even more fun, and very rewarding, especially when you can hear how much sound quality improves after adding some carefully chosen acoustic treatments.
The best of luck to you and may you enjoy the project!
Cool info. I’ve just about convinced the wife to put in a slightly larger building. 30x60. If twp approves it. They “should” it’s farm country. Wife’s having a hard time getting ahold the guy. If approved I’m going to have them put 2 walls up. One going down the middle at the peak of roof and one at 24 foot from the end of building. Basically a 15x24 room. But when the drywall is up the rooms will be closer to 14.5x23.5. Or a smidgen smaller.(inches). Aesthetically I don’t care for the higher wall on one side. Non symmetrical.
This is good advice, however the concept of these ratios is based on a flat ceiling. The OP has indicated that the ceiling is vaulted which makes any calculation of ratios far more complicated than just comparing X and Y. Even X, Y and Z doesn’t work since Z will be a range rather than a fixed number.
Making all of the walls, not just floor and ceiling, non-parallel could be a good idea.
As usual, I know nothing, sorry.
As usual, I know nothing, sorry.
I understwnd that. OP states the ceiling is "vaulted" with a height ranging from 8ft to 10ft. I think the best advise would be to make sure the ceiling gets extra attention in acoustic treatment. I'd hang absorption and dispersion panels suspended closer to 8ft than 10 ft.
Yep, and that’s the part that blows up most of the available tools online which are all based on a flat ceiling. When I built my space, which has sides of 9.25’ and a centered peak of 11.5’ running in the long direction of the room, I had to pour over textbooks to figure out how to calculate the resultant modes. Ultimately I went with a piece of advice that Rod Gervais, who knows more about this than all of us combined, gave on the John L Sayers forums: “I’d never sacrifice more floor space to achieve some desired ratio.”
