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Routine Maintenance for a Bass

neo 7

neo 7

The bass player doesn't get a sandwich
Aug 22, 2011
2,747
3,413
Erie, PA
#1
OK, so I hear a bit about keeping your bass in tip top shape. I know about cleaning the fretboard and adjusting the truss rod, but what else is there? What should I do and how often should I do it?
 
#4
Just about all that is mentioned above... Maybe cleaning the pots if your really technically inclined, or at least twist them regularly to be sure they don't get scratchy. Make sure the input jack doesn't crackle, but i can't think of anything else really... There isn't much to many types of basses lol
 
#7
So what's the hub-bub with this maintenance thing? All this stuff seems like common sense. I was wondering if I should lube the tuners, or sand the poles, or something..........
 
#8
Intonation & Set-up - when I change the strings;

Clean strings with denatured alcohol and microfiber cloth - if they look or feel dirty;

Truss rod adjustment - when needed (seasonally, if at all);

Cleaning/polishing - when I change strings: I use flats, which I don't change for years at a time; cleaning is often sporadic; :o

Replace batteries - usually when the pre-amp starts to distort audibly. (once every year or two);

Remove batteries - any time an instrument/pedal/device will be unplayed for an indeterminate period of time;

Spray jack, pots, with Deoxit - if they start to feel "scratchy," or sound noisy;

Tighten screws/apply Loctite - when screws aren't fully seated/tightened, or won't hold their position over time;

Polish back of neck to maintain satin sheen - if my fingers start to stick when I want them to slide; :bassist:

Strap locks - tighten screws/repair damaged screw holes - if they come loose.

Deodorize - if I end up playing somewhere stanky, as when a venue, recording studio, or rehearsal space allows smoking; :spit:

Replace cable - any time I see or hear damage that effects sound quality or reliability.

There may be more, but I'm old and my memory isn't what it used to be. ;)
 
#9
Not that old, jazzdog, I think you got it all. If you have an unfinished fretboard such as Rosewood, it's good to apply some fretboard oil to nourish the slab and keep it from shrinking and exposing fret ends (2-4 times/year) and tighten the nuts to the pots. If they loosen and you turn the control, the pot could spin and possibly short out or break a solder joint. Note: This will ALWAYS happen in the middle of a gig!
 
#10
My oldest rosewood fingerboards are 49 and 40 years old, respectively, and I've seldom treated them; the natural oils endemic to dalbergias (e.g., rosewood, cocobolo) provide sufficient protection without the addition of finishes - unless solvents or cleaners are used often enough to deplete them. :) I am not aware of any organisms, including trees, that benefit from nourishment after death. ;)

The ebony fingerboards on my double basses date back as far as 1939, and they've never been treated either.

That said, when I make a bass or replace a fingerboard or fretboard, I habitually seal the end grain before installation; it's cheap insurance against checking and warping.
 
#11
I would just play the darn thing and keep an eye out for obvious things.

No need to sand poles, fill holes, get a fearful, scrape gum off the headstock, lube tuning machine heads, lacquer the cigarette burns, swap pick-ups, buy an SX, buff the strap buttons, saddle soap the strap, blah blah blah, et al, ad nauseum....
 
#12
Jazzdogg said:
My oldest rosewood fingerboards are 49 and 40 years old, respectively, and I've seldom treated them; the natural oils endemic to dalbergias (e.g., rosewood, cocobolo) provide sufficient protection without the addition of finishes - unless solvents or cleaners are used often enough to deplete them. :) I am not aware of any organisms, including trees, that benefit from nourishment after death. ;)

The ebony fingerboards on my double basses date back as far as 1939, and they've never been treated either.

That said, when I make a bass or replace a fingerboard or fretboard, I habitually seal the end grain before installation; it's cheap insurance against checking and warping.
Click to expand...
Sealing end grain is an excellent practice, I doubt if many production basses have this done. With older instruments, the woods used were better selected and better aged. In many cases the resins were already crystallized by the time they built the instruments. With many newer instruments, due to restrictions and reforestation needs, the woods are still a bit too "green" and will continue to age after the build. It's LESS common with dense oily hardwoods but I see it happen more and more with newer basses. My rule of thumb is that when a NEW guitar makes it through 8 seasons, I consider it stable and expect it to react as such.
 
#15
For me, aside from a proper setup (which most people would and should do), I try to remember to clean my instruments and tighten up all the nuts, bolts and screws periodically. Just wiping everything down with a damp cloth and immediately again with a dry one (appropriate to the finish, especially if it's nitro, usually a shammy or microfiber towel) and hitting all the hardware with some 0000 steel wool, along with a fret polish. Then just tightening up all the screws (especially the tuners) and tightening up the nuts on the tuning pegs too (if applicable). I don't think I've ever picked up a used instrument where the tuning pegs didn't wobble. Those are little things, but I think they make a big difference in the long run.
 
#17
Jeez, I am reading how some bass players maintain their basses and it makes my head want to explode. I've been playing 35 years and asside from keeping my basses clean, changing strings every now and then I don't do anything. Sure, there is an initial setup in which all my basses had this done when I bought them; but having a complete setup twice a year ??? I do, however, check the intonation every now and then and adjust if if necessary but rarely does it need adjusting. Oh yea, checking the screws every now and then; especially the strap screws (these are the only screws I've ever had get loose). What kind of basses are you guys playing that all the screws loosen up on you so much?
 
#18
sobie18 said:
I would just play the darn thing and keep an eye out for obvious things.

No need to sand poles, fill holes, get a fearful, scrape gum off the headstock, lube tuning machine heads, lacquer the cigarette burns, swap pick-ups, buy an SX, buff the strap buttons, saddle soap the strap, blah blah blah, et al, ad nauseum....
Click to expand...

+1! Another realistic bass player who's gotta' life.
 
#20
I'm all for the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" school of thought. For those of you who own basses with bodies made of T-6 Aircraft Aluminum TIG-welded to a neck of Sandvik-01 sporting an ATS-55 Hi-Cobalt fretboard... I SALUTE YOU! There are still many players who own instruments made primarily of wood and although many of those do not need consistent meticulous attention, I like to believe that:

1. If there's a malfunction, it will always happen in the middle of the gig, USUALLY right before your solo.
2. If you need to go to your back-up bass, that's the one night it will SUCK.
3. Hot chicks know that if my bass is clean that they can trust my personal hygiene as well. (This is a HUGE help when you're as ugly as I am).

There are two types of people in this world: Those who stand up and face the music, and those who run for cover. COVER IS BETTER!
 

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