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Sanded-in Oil Finish

Will it always make a brighter color or could you make it have the same or darker color too?

The original finish was a whisper-thin, thin-bodied tinted oil, like Watco. The bass became lighter after refinishing because I completely removed the old finish, and the only color imbued by the Liberon finishing oil I used was the very slight ambering attributable to tung oil.

The change in sheen was caused by using a product that has a far higher solids content than the original finish, my method of application, and wax that was applied after the finish had cured for about a month (if you attempt to apply wax before the finish has polymerized and stopped outgassing, the wax will become soft, gummy, and opaque).

Hope that answers your question :hmm:
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but it's a goodie so hopefully nobody will mind. I have a question regarding the section about using steam to remove dent or gouges; you refer to "scraping" the area before doing the treatment; what exactly do you mean by this? Is this the same as sanding, or do you use something other than sandpaper? I have considered a refin on my Ibanez using your method but there are some flaws that I need to take care of first, and I wasn't sure what you meant exactly.
 
Ahh, that seems clear enough... just something to get the pores of the wood open, that makes sense.

Another question from earlier in the thread though... You mentioned that using a sanded in finish usually isn't a good idea over stain, but you recommended using a gel stain instead; have you done this with a conventional oil (such as liberon) with some type of tint or other color added to it? Would this produce a similar result, and what kind of dye or tint would be compatible?
 
Ahh, that seems clear enough... just something to get the pores of the wood open, that makes sense.

Another question from earlier in the thread though... You mentioned that using a sanded in finish usually isn't a good idea over stain, but you recommended using a gel stain instead; have you done this with a conventional oil (such as liberon) with some type of tint or other color added to it? Would this produce a similar result, and what kind of dye or tint would be compatible?

I don't tint my oil with dyes or stains, or wet-sand liquid stains, because the results can be inconsistent and exceptionally messy. Additionally, dyes aren't universally compatible with all finishing products; some can be dissolved only in water, some in alcohol, etc.

I don't use a wet-sanding method over previously stained or dyed wood because it tends to remove the color, often unevenly.

When I want to achieve a sanded-in finish with integral color, I use General Finishes gel stains because they're thick and fairly easy to control without getting messy, their color is highly concentrated and produces consistent results, and it polymerizes very quickly.

General Finishes gel stains contain polyurethane resin, to which some kinds of finishes (primarily water-borne acrylics and acrylic/urethane blends) may not adhere. A few coats of 1.5-pound-cut dewaxed shellac (I use thinned Zinsser Sealcoat) on top of gel stain will create a barrier layer to which virtually finish will adhere.

You can also use the wet-sanding method to fill the pores and provide a smooth surface, over which laquer, shellac, or a water-borne can be sprayed, either clear, or as a color coat by by adding anyline dye to a compatible clear coat.
 
Thank you for the guide! Great tips, I will surely try a rubbed in oil finish on my next project.

My question-
Should I thin/mix Tung oil with anything? Or is it a ready to apply product?
Thanks again for the guide!
 
Sorry to bump this thread, I've been reading this tutorial over and over.

I might be landing myself an SX SG guitar copy tomorrow. Unlike a real SG this is an alder body to maple neck instrument with a bolt-on neck. SX (bless them) tried to stain it dark red to match the originals but it is a blotchy and nasty looking job.

I would like to first take off all the poly on the body and neck (with a heat gun), tidy up any scorching, then do your sand-in slurry method.

Will alder be a good candidate, or is it best that I stain the alder, or should I opt for a tinted Danish oil? I've been looking into Tru-oil, but Danish oil is available off the shelf where I live. Moreover I've found a brand, Colron, that offer it in a variety of colours.

I don't want my SG to look like it came from Ikea or that it was made out of summer-camp toilet seats.

Any advice for Alder?
 
I'm not familiar with the "Danish Oil" you have in Scotland, but if it's like the Watco Danish Oil we have in the U.S., I wouldn't use it because it takes far too many coats to provide any meaningful protection, and tinted oil (essentially dilute stain) will cause alder to blotch.

If you have access to Liberon Finishing Oil (Invalid Link Removed), it will serve you very well; it's my favorite "wiping varnish."

Alder is notorious for blotching when stain is applied. If you want to stain it, you'll have to seal it first. I encourage you to obtain a piece of alder and complete a practice finish before you attempt to refinish your bass; irrespective of the finish you select, it's the prudent thing to do.
 
I'm not sure where I could find Alder. Truth be told, I was going to get the Alder guitar to use as a dummy before I work on my old SG copy. My old guitar is Mahogany, so that put an end to the direct comparison in terms of finishing skills.

I presume the sanded-in finish trick works better on Mahogany? Sorry to keep asking inane questions but I've found far less on sanded-in finishes, compared to conventional wipe-on oil finishes, on the internet
 
@Meddle:

I'm just curious, why aren't you considering Tru-Oil? It's readily available in the UK, and gives a nice semi-gloss finish.

Here's a link from the French Bass Forum of a Tru-Oil project (page 2, where the finished pictures are):
http://forum.onlybass.com/index.php?/topic/72784-finition-dark-woodgrain-tru-oil/page-2

I'm wondering, because I'm starting an "assembly" project. I've ordered a PB body (Swamp Ash) and a JB neck from a french shop ([Invalid or Expired Link Removed]) and am planning on using Tru-Oil after filling & staining. Just wondering if you know something I don't...
 
I wish we could still obtain Liberon Finishing Oil in Southern California!

You can get it on Amazon no? Is it outlawed by environmental law? Is it illegal to ship it into the US?



gb_bassclef said:
@Meddle:

I'm just curious, why aren't you considering Tru-Oil? It's readily available in the UK, and gives a nice semi-gloss finish.

I'm following Jazzdogg's advice to the letter. :D I've also looked at Tru-Oil. I'm also tempted to layer on some Rustins Plastic Coating ala Brian May once the oil is all cured.

However I'm not getting anything done in this weather and I'm heat stripping these guitars outside to get the poly off.
 
That is weird. I studied environmental management. Of all the issues with polution, I doubt a wee bit of Liberon down the drain would be the worst, especially if I were to pour it down a drain here... up for smuggling? I jest.

I had a look at Birchwood-Casey's Tru Oil (following gb_bassclef's post) and it appears people sand that stuff in as well.
 
Hi Jazzdogg,

Sorry for resurrecting this thread, but I've been all over the internet and have been unsuccessful in finding sufficiently detailed information about Liberon Finishing Oil. I've even tried contacting Liberon themselves, but can't get any more detailed information from them past their general information PDF flyer. Anyways, I'm hoping you can help me out in regards to this particular product.

I'm looking at finishing a guitar soon, and haven't been too impressed with Minwax's Wipe On Polyurethane (oil base); specifically it's resistance to scratching. Application is easy enough, but I've found that unless you build up a film thickness in the region of 2mm on a relatively hard substrate, it doesn't seem to resist scratching anywhere near what I was expecting. As such, Liberon's Finishing Oil seems to be the logical alternative finishing product.

Do you know if Liberon Finishing Oil is a polymerising oil/varnish mix, and if so, does it cure properly over raw rosewood? How thick of a film can you build with it, and how hard and scratch resistant does it get? Does it resist wear sufficiently enough that it can be used on an all-maple neck?

Thanks again.
 
That is weird. I studied environmental management. Of all the issues with polution, I doubt a wee bit of Liberon down the drain would be the worst, especially if I were to pour it down a drain here... up for smuggling? I jest.

I had a look at Birchwood-Casey's Tru Oil (following gb_bassclef's post) and it appears people sand that stuff in as well.

I do every time, it helps fill in the tiny voids in the grin.