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SBMM Stingray Short scale

#581
moderatelyfunky said:
I think I’m going to return it and save for the EBMM version.
Click to expand...

The EBMM might be higher quality, but $1400 of extra quality? And could there still be neck dive on it also? I would try to sort this one out with some accessories and save the money for other things personally. Also, I haven’t had any buzzing problems with mine so it could be an electrical issue with some other piece of gear. Mine stays dead quiet when I’m not playing. Also, I have a very slight neck dive on mine when I play it sitting down, but when I play it standing, the neck stays upright, even with a basic slippery nylon strap, which doesn’t work for my neck-heavy Mustangs. I fixed their neck dive problems with a thick strap that has molded air pocket grips. It’s a relatively cheap fix and also very comfortable for playing a few hours on end.
 
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#582
No doubt, 1400 more for very small quality improvements other than neck dive is a lot. I don’t have any first hand info, but I’d really be surprised if their ss would leave the factory out of balance.

I really don’t like to wear a strap unless I have to stand, which means I never have to. I agree though that a strap could help.

I’m disappointed about the electronics, but one way or another I’m sure it can be sorted.

The headstock seems a oddly oversized. Bigger than my full size instruments. There isn’t a ton of meat outside of the tuners, but it could be trimmed down. Do you think a luthier could get it to balance with that or more refined techniques?
 
#583
I personally would not recommend having the headstock re-shaped as the bass would no longer look stasndard, it would be expensive, and there's no going back if you decide you don't like it. Of course you could always get a luthier/tech to fit your lightweight tuners. I'm confident that would be the best fix and if/when you sell you should be able to return to original without leaving any witness marks and sell the Hipshots separately - IIRC refitting the OE tuning machines would cover the non-standard screw holes left by the Hipshots. Re buying the more expensive EBMM, you've probably seen there's at least one poster on here who owns both and is in no way disappointed with his cheaper SBMM 'Ray.
 
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#584
I've never worked with a luthier, so I'm not aware of what the cost might be. I agree that it would probably make it an ugly duckling, but I like it enough that I can envision keeping it for the duration. I'm lousy about selling anything.

I saw this SBMM SS bass in the classifieds recently where someone replaced the tuners and the screw holes it left behind weren't pretty because of the different mounting layouts. Getting lighter tuners is becoming a more appealing option though. It's just tough to imagine tuners could make up the difference in balance.

I wouldn't be surprised at all about people who own both being pleased with this one. I have an EBMM Sterling and really, I think the fit and finishes are very comparable. That's why I'm having such a tough time deciding - it's really close to being perfect for me. I've got until Sunday to figure out a game plan.
 
#586
I've fixed neck dive on other s-s basses just by fitting the lightweight Hipshots. If you hold the OE machines in one hand and the Hipshots in the other the difference is really noticeable. Also that extra mass is located at the end of the neck where it has maximum leverage effect. IIRC you have the blue bass with the maple fretboard - maybe it's a bit heavier than the rosewood.
 
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#587
moderatelyfunky said:
I saw this SBMM SS bass in the classifieds recently where someone replaced the tuners and the screw holes it left behind weren't pretty because of the different mounting layouts. Getting lighter tuners is becoming a more appealing option though. It's just tough to imagine tuners could make up the difference in balance.
Click to expand...
Light weight tuners weigh approx 3/4 as much as standard tuners. An easy way to predict if they would solve your problem: take off one of the four standard tuners on your existing bass and see if it still dives. On my SBMM SRSS ultralights solved the problem 100%. Yeah, the holes in the headstock are unsightly, but I don't see them when I'm playing and an audience never will. More meticulous people than I fill the holes in but they really don't bother me.

Did fiddling with that middle knob solve your noise problem? Feel free to send me a PM if you want to talk about it.

I have to say, I have some much more expensive short-scales in my house right now (2 Birdsongs and a Landing) but I keep picking up the Stingray. Part of the attraction is that it was such a killer value. Even after adding $75 worth of tuners, the thing is an absolute bargain and it is without a doubt the equal of the others in terms of tone, comfort, and style. It's a real testament to what can be accomplished in the modern manufacturing climate when an instrument is thoughtfully designed.
 
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#589
So I just went back and forth between the Musicman and the SBMM.

The SBMM, to me, has no neck dive. It balances straight when around my neck. Seated, if I let it go the neck will dive, but only slightly. As soon as my right hand touches the bass, the neck comes up - so again, to me, there's no dive.

The Musicman is balances a bit better, though "better" is an overstatement. It just balances where the neck comes up as opposed to laying in a straight line. Seated, its the same as the SBMM.

If there is a serious neck dive issue on the SBMM, @moderatelyfunky I'd exchange it. If its just a preference thing, then you might be happier with the Musicman. The majority of my basses hang the way the SBMM does. The Musicman balances exceptionally well.

The plus on the MM is that it is about a pound lighter. As @grrg63 said, outside of my hollow bodied Hofner, its the lightest bass I own. When I first got it I thought, there's no way this thing is going to sound even half way decent. I was dumbfounded when I plugged it in :) . I love them both.
 
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#590
theschnitt said:
Light weight tuners weigh approx 3/4 as much as standard tuners. An easy way to predict if they would solve your problem: take off one of the four standard tuners on your existing bass and see if it still dives. On my SBMM SRSS ultralights solved the problem 100%. Yeah, the holes in the headstock are unsightly, but I don't see them when I'm playing and an audience never will. More meticulous people than I fill the holes in but they really don't bother me.

Did fiddling with that middle knob solve your noise problem? Feel free to send me a PM if you want to talk about it.

I have to say, I have some much more expensive short-scales in my house right now (2 Birdsongs and a Landing) but I keep picking up the Stingray. Part of the attraction is that it was such a killer value. Even after adding $75 worth of tuners, the thing is an absolute bargain and it is without a doubt the equal of the others in terms of tone, comfort, and style. It's a real testament to what can be accomplished in the modern manufacturing climate when an instrument is thoughtfully designed.
Click to expand...

What a great idea to remove one tuner to see if it will do the job! I've decided to return this bass and try another one like @dnp41 suggested. If that one feels the same, I'm going to try to fix it with the new tuners.

As far as the noise, it makes what I think is 60hz noise with the switch in all three positions when the volume knob is in and at any level. The same is true of when the volume knob is out and boosted except when the volume is wide open.

There was the other odd noise that didn't happen just now, but it was intermittent before.

Thanks @Joe Nerve for the details. Based on your description, my bass is more neck heavy. Hopefully I'll get to try another in a couple of weeks and it'll be a winner with no need for mods, but I've got a game plan now if it does.
 
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#592
If noise goes away when you touch the tuners, strings or bridge... the bridge isn't grounded. No amount of shielding is going to change that. Pop off the control plate and make sure the wire is well soldered and if it is the issue is at the bridge itself.

As for neck dive... we talking sitting or standing? I've never ever played a bass that wasn't neck heavy sitting, not a one. Standing, unless you have a nylon strap, they have all stayed in place.
 
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#593
Solude said:
As for neck dive... we talking sitting or standing? I've never ever played a bass that wasn't neck heavy sitting, not a one.
Click to expand...

At full volume, my SBMM SS reads like this:

Volume out
-----------
4.6K - Tone switch fully clockwise
2.3K - Center
1.1K - Tone switch fully counter clockwise

Volume in
-----------
118K - Tone switch fully clockwise
116.5K - Center
116K - Tone switch fully counter clockwise

I'm talking sitting with no strap. With the exception of my 87 or 88 Power Jazz Bass "Special" that I've held onto for sentimental reasons, my basses are balanced when sitting.
 
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#595
Sterling and MusicMan instruments aren't available to try in my area. Is there another maker with nearly the same neck feel? Trying to decide between the Mustang PJ and the Stingray to replace my long scale bass. Also how is the QC compared to the Fender which at least for me has always been non existent. Or rather QC seems to means increasing relief and action until the faults don't matter.
 
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#596
Solude said:
Also how is the QC compared to the Fender which at least for me has always been non existent. Or rather QC seems to means increasing relief and action until the faults don't matter.
Click to expand...

RE the quality control, on my MIM Mustang the pickup selector switch was faulty. On my MIA Mustang the bridge pickup didn't work. I had to exchange the bass. That's how my experience with Fender QC has always been. About half the basses I've purchased had issues, the other half were fine.

Never had any issues with Musicman QC.

I've owned about a dozen of each.

Not sure what you mean by increasing the relief and action regarding QC, but if you're talking about setup out of the box, I honestly have no idea how any of my basses ever arrive. I don't pay attention to that, and think its always a hit or miss kind of thing. I don't expect basses to be set to my liking and always adjust them as soon as I get them. Both my SS Musicmans and Mustangs currently have awesome action, with no buzzes.

And finally...

A video I posted got taken down because the BL wanted the interview part edited out. I said I'd repost it. We did a bunch of songs, but I think this one shows how the bass acts all the way up and down the neck (something someone was concerned about)... so I'm posting this song.


 
Last edited:
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#597
Joe Nerve said:
RE the quality control, on my MIM Mustang the pickup selector switch was faulty. On my MIA Mustang the bridge pickup didn't work. I had to exchange the bass. That's how my experience with Fender QC has always been. About half the basses I've purchased had issues, the other half were fine.

Never had any issues with Musicman QC.

I've owned about a dozen of each.

Not sure what you mean by increasing the relief and action regarding QC, but if you're talking about setup out of the box, I honestly have no idea how any of my basses ever arrive. I don't pay attention to that, and think its always a hit or miss kind of thing. I don't expect basses to be set to my liking and always adjust them as soon as I get them. Both my SS Musicmans and Mustangs currently have awesome action, with no buzzes.

And finally...

A video I posted got taken down because the BL wanted the interview part edited out. I said I'd repost it. We did a bunch of songs, but I think this one shows how the bass acts all the way up and down the neck (something someone was concerned about)... so I'm posting this song.


Click to expand...

Sounds stellar!!!!
 
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#598
Solude said:
Sterling and MusicMan instruments aren't available to try in my area. Is there another maker with nearly the same neck feel? Trying to decide between the Mustang PJ and the Stingray to replace my long scale bass. Also how is the QC compared to the Fender which at least for me has always been non existent. Or rather QC seems to means increasing relief and action until the faults don't matter.
Click to expand...

I don’t want to say you shouldn’t get MIM Mustang PJ but the QC on my Sterling Stingray seems to be much better. The pickguard on my PJ warped outward, even after I replaced the first warped one. The pickup selector switch is faulty on mine also (this is a very common problem). I have to jerk it around a few times to get it to switch to the P+J or just J because it just cuts the sound out completely.. definitely not reliable for switching during a live performance. But the P alone has always been fine. It also has some very subtle imperfections in the finish that shouldn’t really matter, but it bugs me when I touch or see them. I will say though, that the neck is fantastic and it still sounds great.

My Sterling, on the other hand, feels a few notches better. I can’t find any flaws worth mentioning and it sounds like it’s worth more in my opinion. It balances better, feels better, has more frets, and you can actually reach all of the frets a lot more comfortably, whereas the Mustang limits reach on the highest frets with the shallow bottom horn.

So yeah, I still love Mustangs for variety, but if it was a choice between another Indonesian Stingray or Mexican Mustang, it would be another Ray in a heartbeat. Hope that helps. :D
 
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#600
moderatelyfunky said:
At full volume, my SBMM SS reads like this:

Volume out
-----------
4.6K - Tone switch fully clockwise
2.3K - Center
1.1K - Tone switch fully counter clockwise

Volume in
-----------
118K - Tone switch fully clockwise
116.5K - Center
116K - Tone switch fully counter clockwise
Click to expand...
What are those numbers, and what do you mean: At full volume, volume out, volume in ?
 
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