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Schaller Strap-lock unscrewing itself

Stellvia

Stellvia

Jul 18, 2015
422
1,049
39
Perth, Aus
#1
I changed the Fender strap locks on my Ultra Precision recently as the top strap lock kept coming loose. Put on a set of Schaller's which had a longer and larger diameter screw and hoped that would fix the issue. What I'm finding is that with my strap angle the mechanism is binding and causing the strap pin to be unscrewed from the body as I play. I've tried putting some graphite on the pins which helped a little but still finding that everything is binding.
IMG_2775.jpeg

Any thoughts on how to fix this? Loctite or glue in the hole? The screw isn't loose in the hole, it's just being unscrewed by the torque generated by the bass being played and the strap lock mechanism binding instead of swinging freely! Should I try a different style of strap locks like Dunlops? Thanks!
 
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#2
Stellvia said:
I changed the Fender strap locks on my Ultra Precision recently as the top strap lock kept coming loose. Put on a set of Schaller's which had a longer and larger diameter screw and hoped that would fix the issue. What I'm finding is that with my strap angle the mechanism is binding and causing the strap pin to be unscrewed from the body as I play. I've tried putting some graphite on the pins which helped a little but still finding that everything is binding.
View attachment 5203578
Any thoughts on how to fix this? Loctite or glue in the hole? The screw isn't loose in the hole, it's just being unscrewed by the torque generated by the bass being played and the strap lock mechanism binding instead of swinging freely! Should I try a different style of strap locks like Dunlops? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Remove the screw (derp!). Slather some flat toothpicks in TiteBond, jam into the screw hole (should be snug), flush trim to surface and wipe-off overflow, re-insert screw while glue is still wet. Another trick is to wick some thin super glue to reinforce the wood fibers but, per your description, I think we're beyond that point.

Riis
 
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#4
bdplaid said:
as above, but I'd super glue it in. Put in screw with glue wet.
Click to expand...

Couple reasons we don't use CA:

*Forget about cleaning up any overflow as it will royally screw-up the surrounding finish.

*Conventional woodworking glues do a better job of allowing the toothpicks to deform and more uniformly bond and fill the culpable voids.

Riis
 
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#9
Zooberwerx said:
Couple reasons we don't use CA:

*Forget about cleaning up any overflow as it will royally screw-up the surrounding finish.

*Conventional woodworking glues do a better job of allowing the toothpicks to deform and more uniformly bond and fill the culpable voids.

Riis
Click to expand...
All True. I know the finish from experience. However, I wasn't referring to using toothpicks at all, just putting in a drop of super glue and letting that hold the screw. Actually though, I use CA for most everything now.
 
#11
Stellvia said:
The screw isn't loose in the hole, it's just being unscrewed by the torque generated by the bass being played and the strap lock mechanism binding instead of swinging freely!
Click to expand...
so the button will still fully tighten down?

if so this is even easier than what @Zooberwerx suggested because you don't need the toothpicks!

work some wood glue (not CA!) down into the hole then screw the button back in. let dry before using it again and you should be fine.

if not then yeah, split a toothpick lengthwise and shove a sliver or two in the hole, all soaked in wood glue; snip flush, then screw in the button while still wet

i'd still look at the strap-lock part, it shouldn't be binding but should instead swivel freely around the button
 
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#12
walterw said:
so the button will still fully tighten down?

if so this is even easier than what @Zooberwerx suggested because you don't need the toothpicks!

work some wood glue (not CA!) down into the hole then screw the button back in. let dry before using it again and you should be fine.

if not then yeah, split a toothpick lengthwise and shove a sliver or two in the hole, all soaked in wood glue; snip flush, then screw in the button while still wet

i'd still look at the strap-lock part, it shouldn't be binding but should instead swivel freely around the button
Click to expand...

Yeah, the screw tightens down nice and tight, just the motion from the straplock moving that unscrews it, no wiggle or looseness in the screw!
 
#13
I HATE Schaller Strap Locks!

the last gig I used them my strap kept falling off. Somehow the cup on the strap was rotating round until only that small pin held my strap in place. That pin is too week to hold a full weight back through thunderbird. Crash, crash, crash!

the next day I threw the Schaller strap locks away and installed a set of Dunlops. Their advantage is:
  • Cannot unscrew/loosen on the strap as their held in place with a spring clip, not a nut.
  • They lock to the guitar with ball bearings so aren't reliant on a cup's orientation.
I had used Schaller strap locks for 17 years… but no more!
 
#14
kyral210 said:
I HATE Schaller Strap Locks!

the last gig I used them my strap kept falling off. Somehow the cup on the strap was rotating round until only that small pin held my strap in place. That pin is too week to hold a full weight back through thunderbird. Crash, crash, crash!

the next day I threw the Schaller strap locks away and installed a set of Dunlops. Their advantage is:
  • Cannot unscrew/loosen on the strap as their held in place with a spring clip, not a nut.
  • They lock to the guitar with ball bearings so aren't reliant on a cup's orientation.
I had used Schaller strap locks for 17 years… but no more!
Click to expand...
Hmm, not trying to be a jerkstore here, but it seems to me that the problem lies in how you had it installed on your strap, and not in a fault of the design. I've been using them for close to 30 years (on some heavy basses too) and have never had this problem. You do, as with all fasteners, have to occasionally check that they are tight.
 
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#15
walking_line said:
Hmm, not trying to be a jerkstore here, but it seems to me that the problem lies in how you had it installed on your strap, and not in a fault of the design. I've been using them for close to 30 years (on some heavy basses too) and have never had this problem. You do, as with all fasteners, have to occasionally check that they are tight.
Click to expand...

Yep, the retainer nut could definitely use a drop of thread-lock.

Re: the "horseshoe" retainer. Once in position and secured via pin, I'm of the impression it's acting as a "spanner" wrench once it hits a not-so-sweet orientation and grabs / binds / loosens the supporting strap button. It's an inherent design consideration and not sure what work-arounds exist.

Riis
 
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#16
Stellvia said:
I changed the Fender strap locks on my Ultra Precision recently as the top strap lock kept coming loose. Put on a set of Schaller's which had a longer and larger diameter screw and hoped that would fix the issue. What I'm finding is that with my strap angle the mechanism is binding and causing the strap pin to be unscrewed from the body as I play. I've tried putting some graphite on the pins which helped a little but still finding that everything is binding.
View attachment 5203578
Any thoughts on how to fix this? Loctite or glue in the hole? The screw isn't loose in the hole, it's just being unscrewed by the torque generated by the bass being played and the strap lock mechanism binding instead of swinging freely! Should I try a different style of strap locks like Dunlops? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I haven't needed to buy a new set of Schallers in decades (they're super reliable) but I'm assuming they still come with the U-cup filled with thick axle grease, that gets all over the corresponding strap button?


For a long time, I didn't appreciate how important that grease is - and was constantly annoyed at getting on my bass case, or hands, every time I took the strap off.

I'd end up wiping it off the strap buttons, and never replacing it, so eventually it all went away.

It was only years later that I noticed how deformed the strap buttons had become, from all that jumping around, and constant use (easily remedied by rotating the strap button 180°).

A dollop of grease later, and not only was there no more of that metal on metal grinding (creating a constant supply of metal particles, like all that crap you're constantly breathing in on the London Underground / NYC Metro), but that annoying metal rattling sound that travels through the straplocks, into the pickups, and out your amp between songs, is largely eliminated.


So, the only problem is once again, greasy strap buttons...

But I think I've figured it out : I'm just trying to find a source for the appropriate sized screw / bolt caps, to put over the strap buttons when the strap is off (which will preserve the grease, and prevent it transferring into anything else).



TLDR?


Grease is the word!
 
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#19
Swtiched to Dunlops years ago. Never had to use anything extra when installing them, and never had issues with the screws moving. The last holdover bass that had Schallers had them wear out (the buttons I think, a little tug in the right direction and the horseshoe/strap would just pop off it). Never a failure with the Dunlops for me.
 
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