Schaller Strap Locks Fail - WARNING

[PhatBasstard]

PhatBasstard, I'd have to disagree on several points. My horseshoe clasps have never been totally right side up yet they have always held UNTIL I installed the new knobs. So, the spring loaded lock DOES in fact help keep the two parts together, otherwise they would NEVER hold if the horseshoe clasp is upside down. Also, if you watch the video on the Schaller site the guy says that the knob screws are compatible with all existing screws used throughout the industry.

Having said that I realize that my implementation was less than ideal. The first thing I'm going to do is use some Loctite to see if I can get the horseshoes to stay in the right side up position on the strap. I'm also going to apply paraffin, as stated in an earlier post.

Thanks for all the help, guys!

Yeah. The guy in the first thread like this, locks held too...…..
until they didn't (Spoiler!).

But I'll repeat for your benefit:
(I hate quoting myself unnecessarily, but....)

The "lock" is to keep the strap on the pin, not support the weight of the bass.

Now, you may not see this as being related to your original issue,
but others of us seem to be having no such problems mixing old Schaller pins with new Schaller clasps,
a Schaller tech actually got back to you and told you that they are compatible,
and your implementation in other areas of the device seems to be dubious at best
(i.e. You don't seem to know what you're doing with the installation or operation of said device),
to come on here and trash said device looks ridiculous.

I usually don't need a video to tell me if a screw is the right size or not.
Or can be safely used.
But I know for a fact everybody does not use the same size/type of screw for their strap pins.
And even if you did not misunderstand said video (something tells me....),
I certainly wouldn't bet my bass on it. Just common sense.

Do you have a defective unit? Maybe. It happens to everybody at some point.
But your lack of logical implementation makes it hard to point the blame at the product.

 

[EastCoastThump]

I also tried using the big rubber washers & those just cause the strap to be tight to the button & spin it, which works the screw out.

A few of my instruments still sport Schallers and Dunlops, but only because I put them on years ago and they still work. But I've had both types fail, and each type has additional problems beyond reliability. So I much prefer a rubber washer over each strap button.

The key is to use the right sizes. Don't use a washer that's too thick or that has too small a hole diameter for your particular strap buttons. Otherwise, as KbD says, it'll grip your strap button and over time work it loose. (It'll also make it hard to take your strap off the instrument.)

There's a bit of interplay between the washer's thickness, hole diameter, and flexibility—as well as between the size and shape of your instrument's strap buttons and the thickness of your strap. Even if you can stretch it over the strap button, not every washer will work for every instrument.

 

[FunkHead]

Sorry Op but I gotta go with operator error on this one.

 

[Sav'nBass]

Dunlop Dual Design Straplocks

Don't look back.

People can say what they want.. and everyone usually thinks that what they do/use is the best thing .. but I have used both Schallers and Dunlops.. and for design, use maintenance even aesthetics.. the Dunlops are .. in my opinion FAR superior to the Schallers.

 

[Mediocrity Man]

Over 20 years and never had a problem. Like any piece of equipment, you need to inspect on occasion to make sure they are tight and working properly.

 

[mesaplayer83]

Dunlop Dual Design Straplocks

Don't look back.

People can say what they want.. and everyone usually thinks that what they do/use is the best thing .. but I have used both Schallers and Dunlops.. and for design, use maintenance even aesthetics.. the Dunlops are .. in my opinion FAR superior to the Schallers.

You're certainly entitled to your opinion, but mine is the opposite - IME, once Schallers are locktited into place, they no longer require any maintenence, whereas Dunlops typically require some lubrication from time to time, or they start to stick and become unreliable... Also, speaking of aesthetics - *I* think Schallers win again, since they don't stick out from the body so far, like Dunlops do...

I've used both in the past, but standardized to Schallers years ago - and have never regretted that decision for a minute... As always, to each their own, though...

 

[mansjasont]

I've used the Schaller buttons and one of these straps for years and never once had an issue.
https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves...22&sr=8-2&keywords=planet+waves+locking+strap

 

[ialma]

Almost twenty-five years using Schaller and never had a single issue.
Experience taught me a lesson or two though. If you replace Dunlops with Schallers remember that the dunlop screws are larger than the schaller's so you'll need to put something in the hole to avoid screw movements. I use a toothpick or some bamboo shard without glue.

Overtighten the straplock bolt. It won't hurt the strap and the bolt will never give way

 

[tadawson]

Myself, if they will fit in the straplock button, I always try to reuse the original screws that forms the threads in the body. Short of a large difference in length, I can't think of much going wro g doing this, and a lot going right!

 

[briandavismurph]

I had Dunlops on one bass, Schallers on the other. The Dunlop-bass has never failed in 16 years - and I used to really move around a lot. The Schallers failed numerous times for different reasons: screw working itself loose from the body, the strap coming off as nut loosened itself, strap splitting and snapping due to over-tightening the nut and the actual lock coming undone numerous times.

Both basses now have Dunlops.

8 basses with Dunlops the oldest is L2K from 1981, never ever had a hint of a problem

 

[fhm555]

If you tighten down the nut properly, the cups won’t rotate...

I’ve never had any problem with the cups rotating.

I’ve got a bass that came with Schaller (Fender?) strap locks new in the early 90’s. I’ve also got a couple more basses i’ve added Schaller branded locks to and three straps with locks on them, one is over twenty years old and the others are around ten and seven. I use them at random on all three basses and have never had a problem with any of them failing or coming loose from either the bass or straps. I’ve replaced the strap twice on the oldest one because i use cheap nylon straps and i’ve worn a couple out in that time but never a problem with any of my strap locks.

 

[David Lakin]

I’ve used Schaller S-Locks for years, but the new design SUCKS. The tolerance between the strap lock and the strap pin are WAY to close. The locking mechanism keeps backing the strap pin out of my bass. I’ve never, let me repeat, NEVER had a problem till now. I’ve got two basses I’ve never had any problems with (they have the old design on them). I bought one of the new design sets, problem. Returned them, bought a second set. Same problem as the first set. Has anyone experienced this same problem?

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Best bet is to buy a fresh set of matching body and strap components.

Here’s why:

It’s called the OEM Lie. All manufactures like to advertise that their products include Brand X components. For example, the new Chevy Pickup comes standard with Bridgestone tires. Except that the Bridgestones that come on the truck are not the same, and not as good as Bridgestones you buy at a tire store. When Chevy goes to a Bridgestone and says we want to include Bridgestone’s on our new pickups, Bridgestone says sure. Chevy then says that we want to buy them for even less than what you sell them to actual tire dealers for. Bridgestone says sure. Then Bridgestone goes and outsources that huge tire order for Chevy to a low cost contract manufacturer.

So in the case of the Schallers, here is what we have: A bass like a Rick 4003 advertises as having Schaller strap pins. Fine. No question there. You then have to buy from Schaller, or a Schaller dealer, the matching strap side part. Even though the strap pin on the bass is technically a Schaller that the bass manufacturer bought from Schaller, it wasn’t made by Schaller or even where Schaller normally makes their own branded components. That Schaller strap pin on the body came from a low cost contract manufacturer and it’s tolerances will obviously not be as exacting as the Schaller branded parts. Make sense? This is done for tuners, pickups, any branded part on the bass.

Again, just buy a fresh body side & strap side set from Schaller and ditch the strap pins that came on your bass.

Take a look at this video.


And again, make sure the cup on the strap side faces up so if the spring loaded retaining pin doesn’t seat properly, at least the bass stays put instead of falling off if the cup faces downward.

 

[Yango]

I contacted Schaller about this and this is the response I received:

Dear Mr. Corner,

many thanks, in general old and new fit, but we recommend to use only the parts of our new S-Locks.

Old parts might be worn out.

If you like you can send to us the parts and we analyze it.

Kind regards

Dr. Lars Bunning​

This guy is probably on the engineering side and has no sense of customer service. If that's the best they can do I'm never buying anything Schaller again.

You don’t know what they’ll do once they have done their analysis.

I sent my Olympus LS 10 to Duracell after their batteries ruined it. They sent me money to replace it.

They may not promise you anything, but you don’t know what their decision will be once they’re done.

 

[Turnaround]

If you tighten down the nut properly, the cups won’t rotate...

I’ve never had any problem with the cups rotating.

I've tightened down the nuts properly but had one loosen after using the bass about a year. Didn't notice until I was putting the bass away after a gig and saw that the nut was gone! Since then I have never installed Schaller straplocks without putting thread locker on the nut - not on any of my basses, not on any of my customers' basses.

 

[PhatBasstard]

I've tightened down the nuts properly but had one loosen after using the bass about a year. Didn't notice until I was putting the bass away after a gig and saw that the nut was gone! Since then I have never installed Schaller straplocks without putting thread locker on the nut - not on any of my basses, not on any of my customers' basses.

I'm not sure if strap material is any kind of factor, but I've got them on 3 Italia leather straps.
Without anything extra, I've had only one come a little loose in 5 years or more since getting the Italia's.
That was about a year ago and they are all still tight.

 

[Geri O]

I had a scare involving straplocks a long time ago and since I used to rebuild pianos, I'm pretty good with following directions. So I'm fairly sure I was doing things right at the time. Not swearing to it, though.

I love a set-and-forget solution. I'm sure the nuclear physicists around here will find problems with my solution, but it works well for me and I have no problems dealing with a couple of inconveniences the screws might pose. They stow away in the cases just fine. And anyone sitting in on my basses have never said "oooh, I gotta adjust the strap before I can play this thing".

And if one is really observant, one will notice that I haven't said that strap locks are garbage, strap locks are useless, they are bad ju-ju or anything of the sort. I prefer set-and-forget solutions where practical. It works for me.

 

[SteveCS]

I contacted Schaller about this and this is the response I received:

Dear Mr. Corner,

many thanks, in general old and new fit, but we recommend to use only the parts of our new S-Locks.

Old parts might be worn out.

If you like you can send to us the parts and we analyze it.

Kind regards

Dr. Lars Bunning​

This guy is probably on the engineering side and has no sense of customer service. If that's the best they can do I'm never buying anything Schaller again.

He's actually the Managing Director/Owner...

 

[jfh2424]

So...what's the secret to making sure the U of the cup stays up? I have Schaller on two basses. I have tightened the pins as much as I could. The top part is screwed extremely tight on the strap, it is wearing into the strap. But the cup on one of them always rotates to the bottom after two sessions. I am considering gluing the U cup to the strap, but I'm thinking that there must be a specific way to do this...

What am I missing here?

 

[PhatBasstard]

So...what's the secret to making sure the U of the cup stays up? I have Schaller on two basses. I have tightened the pins as much as I could. The top part is screwed extremely tight on the strap, it is wearing into the strap. But the cup on one of them always rotates to the bottom after two sessions. I am considering gluing the U cup to the strap, but I'm thinking that there must be a specific way to do this...

What am I missing here?

Weird.
I've used these for a couple decades on multiple straps and never had this (or any other) problem. I can't figure what you guys are (or aren't) doing.