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Setting Intonation on Kahler Fixed Bass Bridge
- Thread starter KerrywAZ1
- Start date
You have to move the entire assembly. See the socket head screws that hold the slotted part of each unit? You first establish which way you need to move it, loosen the string, loosen the screws and slide it whichever way, retighten screws and tune back up to check your work. PITA but you only have to do it once unless you go to a different string brand/gauge.
You can use the screws at the back of the bridge piece to move the saddle but they are pretty small. I usually do like @David Jayne said and loosen the strings, loosen the screws that hold the bridge section, move the bridge section then use the screws in the back to hold the bridge piece in position while I check intonation. Don’t forget to tighten up the screws in the middle that hold the bridge section in place.
And now for the correct answer 
I've had one of these on my only 5 string for almost 30 years now, and setting intonation with it is a giant PITA that I try to avoid at all costs! Those little hex screws in the back of the saddles are for setting intonation, but you have to loosen the strings a tiny bit and loosen the little screws that hold the entire saddle assembly in place very slightly. That means both the screws in front of the saddle and in the middle. Careful...don't loosen the screws too much or you'll lose your string spacing and point of reference for intonation! Both those nuts are responsible for string spacing and locking it in place. And then you have to tighten everything back up and check your intonation and hope you got it right. If not, repeat.
I have a love/hate relationship with this bridge. I love that it's lighter than a lot of high mass bridges out there and locks down solid and is unmovable once you get it, but adjusting it is one of the biggest dreads of my bass life, so much that the last time I changed strings on it was 2 years ago.
I've had one of these on my only 5 string for almost 30 years now, and setting intonation with it is a giant PITA that I try to avoid at all costs! Those little hex screws in the back of the saddles are for setting intonation, but you have to loosen the strings a tiny bit and loosen the little screws that hold the entire saddle assembly in place very slightly. That means both the screws in front of the saddle and in the middle. Careful...don't loosen the screws too much or you'll lose your string spacing and point of reference for intonation! Both those nuts are responsible for string spacing and locking it in place. And then you have to tighten everything back up and check your intonation and hope you got it right. If not, repeat.
I have a love/hate relationship with this bridge. I love that it's lighter than a lot of high mass bridges out there and locks down solid and is unmovable once you get it, but adjusting it is one of the biggest dreads of my bass life, so much that the last time I changed strings on it was 2 years ago.
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And now for the correct answer
I've had one of these on my only 5 string for almost 30 years now, and setting intonation with it is a giant PITA that I try to avoid at all costs! Those little hex screws in the back of the saddles are for setting intonation, but you have to loosen the strings a tiny bit and loosen the little screws that hold the entire saddle assembly in place very slightly. That means both the screws in front of the saddle and in the middle. Careful...don't loosen the nuts too much or you'll lose your string spacing and point of reference for intonation! Both those nuts are responsible for string spacing and locking it in place. And then you have to tighten everything back up and check your intonation and hope you got it right. If not, repeat.
I have a love/hate relationship with this bridge. I love that it's lighter than a lot of high mass bridges out there and locks down solid and is unmovable once you get it, but adjusting it is one of the biggest dreads of my bass life, so much that the last time I changed strings on it was 2 years ago.
100% correct
They adjust by pushing the assembly back or allowing it to move forward
I think what Jim is saying is that they assist in setting the position once the button head screws are loose.
That is EXACTLY what I'm saying. The hex screws are for fine tuning your intonation once the saddle is in roughly the place it needs to be. But that saddle ain't movin' unless the screws in front and middle are loosened slightly. Just don't loosen them any more than you absolutely have to.
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BTW, didn't mean to put down anyone else's replies when I said I had the correct answer. They all seemed right, just a little incomplete
Just took a closer look at my bridge, and realized that none of those intonation hex screws in back of the saddle are touching anything. I skipped using them entirely.
I suppose it's maybe a good idea to just snug them down a bit onto the base plate once everything's set. Just to sort of guarantee the saddle things CAN'T possibly slip forward under string tension. But as you say, not really needed. No offense taken BTW. I was speculating based on pictures. Always happy to get the correct info!
Great bridge but yes a total pain to adjust. I haven’t changed strings in a long time to avoid this!
Well after spending two hours trying to adjust the intonation on this thing I can totally agree about the bridge being a big PITA! I used this bridge on my build because it looks cool, but what a pain.
All the strings at the 12th fret were sharp. Here are the steps I used to adjust:
1) Loosen string enough to take the strain off the bridge;
2) Use allen key to tighten the intonation hex screw up to the current aft button cap screw space;
3) Loosen both button cap screws slightly and use intonation hex screw to move saddle backwards;
4) Retighten everything, retune and check intonation;
5) Got back to 1)
I never could get the notes at the 12th fret entirely in tune to my satisfaction before I ran out of adjustment space. They are all still slightly sharp. I guess if I want it any better I will have remove the bridge and reinstall it further back from the neck. That will suck.
All the strings at the 12th fret were sharp. Here are the steps I used to adjust:
1) Loosen string enough to take the strain off the bridge;
2) Use allen key to tighten the intonation hex screw up to the current aft button cap screw space;
3) Loosen both button cap screws slightly and use intonation hex screw to move saddle backwards;
4) Retighten everything, retune and check intonation;
5) Got back to 1)
I never could get the notes at the 12th fret entirely in tune to my satisfaction before I ran out of adjustment space. They are all still slightly sharp. I guess if I want it any better I will have remove the bridge and reinstall it further back from the neck. That will suck.
