The saddles on these Fender bridges are flat underneath, so those might not be the best fit.
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Setting up a Fender bass bridge
- Thread starter BobArctorParis
- Start date
Maybe; maybe not - I hadn't noticed the flat bottoms - good spot. But my comment regarding the non-functional nature of the grooves still stands. I think there is some element of vanity over engineering function going on here. The bridge creates an illusion of quality engineering and sophistication through 3D adjustability and being able to 'customise to your personal preference' that, in reality, cannot be done.
At the risk of heading off topic, what I really don't get is why, with modern CNC machining, they can't build a slight angle into the neck joint* so that low action and good playability can be achieved without the need for shims, flattened saddles, and the like.
*either a slight wedge in the heel or a pocket that isn't parallel to the face of the body, or a bit of both?
The angle is so critical that it likely wouldn't be exactly right, even if it was carefully planned out, or it would change after time when the instrument settles in. Refrets, how much the frets are dressed, how the fingerboard is planed all change what the neck angle needs to be. Thank heavens it can be shimmed, unlike a glued, fixed neck.
I have no particular issue with the grooves myself - I own a P-bass with the same bridge, and it’s never been a problem for me. Even Fender’s standard bridge, with single-groove saddles, is unproblematic as far as I’m concerned.
That said, I admit that the vintage saddles allow for more adjustment, should it be required. But as previously mentioned, they probably won’t fit that particular bridge very well. Possibly there are more suitable alternatives out there that allow for the same sort of adjustment.
The threaded Fender saddles are a smaller diameter than your stock saddles so they shouldn’t be a problem.
Fender specifically states that these saddles will not fit American Standard basses. Since they used the same bridge as the one on the OPs bass, I think it's reasonable to assume that they won't fit that either.
I'm going to reanimate this to share a little discovery with these 3-4 groove saddle bridges.
@SteveCS is right that as is, the grooves only allow one way for the strings to be evenly spaced apart, which is with every string on the inside groove. This gives you an even spacing of 19mm.
However, there is a way to get an even ~21mm spacing, and easily switch between that and 19mm.
If you swap the A string saddle with the G string saddle, you will have the 3-groove saddles on the "outside" strings and the 4-groove saddles on the inside strings.
To get 19mm spacing, keep every string on the inside groove like before.
To get 21mm spacing, put the E and G string on the furthest outside grooves, and put the A and D string on the 2nd to the furthest inside grooves.
The 4-groove saddle can hold the thicker A string just fine.
I've heard some 70s or 80s Js had fixed 21mm spacing but I'm not sure if that's true.
@SteveCS is right that as is, the grooves only allow one way for the strings to be evenly spaced apart, which is with every string on the inside groove. This gives you an even spacing of 19mm.
However, there is a way to get an even ~21mm spacing, and easily switch between that and 19mm.
If you swap the A string saddle with the G string saddle, you will have the 3-groove saddles on the "outside" strings and the 4-groove saddles on the inside strings.
To get 19mm spacing, keep every string on the inside groove like before.
To get 21mm spacing, put the E and G string on the furthest outside grooves, and put the A and D string on the 2nd to the furthest inside grooves.
The 4-groove saddle can hold the thicker A string just fine.
I've heard some 70s or 80s Js had fixed 21mm spacing but I'm not sure if that's true.
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One further thing I'll add is that 19mm and 21mm are the ideal spacings for a Jazz bass. Having the E and G strings offset from the pole piece centers slightly lowers the signal from these strings and compensates somewhat for the fact that these two strings are closer to the pickups when action is at a radius.
No custom 20mm spacing, staggered pole pieces, or radiused "blade" pickups needed to compensate for a "design flaw" in my opinion.
No custom 20mm spacing, staggered pole pieces, or radiused "blade" pickups needed to compensate for a "design flaw" in my opinion.
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Hope I’m not too late to this party lol
I play a 65 P. The original threaded saddle bridge was so shot, I had to retire it, and get the ‘58 threaded replacement. You know, to keep it “vintage looking”
I chose to replace it, because Not only were half the saddle screws seized, I was getting a funky fretless-y muah sound on the A string (it’s a fretted bass, btw,) I attributed that, to the fact that it was just old and shot.
However, it’s happening again with the new replica- same problem-same A string (yes happens if I replace the string with another)
I’m coming to the conclusion that the threaded saddle bridge is just an inferior design.. not necessarily bad, but not great string contact. (Note: I’m sure a ‘string through body’ design would give a better break angle to the strings- and clear that problem up… but back to ‘bridge through’ design)
Even if you look at it, all the strings just sits ‘on top of those threads’. No real “resting in a slot” contact.. and for some reason, the A string is ‘most’ prone to that issue.
I’m very close to replacing the bridge again, with saddles that are more encompassing…
I understand that people will point fingers and yell “sacrilege, no high mass, anything else won’t look period correct!”, blah blah
But I say, if the damn thing doesn’t function correctly, the “keep it vintage” flag-waving goes right out the window with me.
Anybody else having this experience with these old threaded saddles? Any modern single slot (carbon fiber maybe?) saddles on a new (better) design?
I play a 65 P. The original threaded saddle bridge was so shot, I had to retire it, and get the ‘58 threaded replacement. You know, to keep it “vintage looking”
I chose to replace it, because Not only were half the saddle screws seized, I was getting a funky fretless-y muah sound on the A string (it’s a fretted bass, btw,) I attributed that, to the fact that it was just old and shot.
However, it’s happening again with the new replica- same problem-same A string (yes happens if I replace the string with another)
I’m coming to the conclusion that the threaded saddle bridge is just an inferior design.. not necessarily bad, but not great string contact. (Note: I’m sure a ‘string through body’ design would give a better break angle to the strings- and clear that problem up… but back to ‘bridge through’ design)
Even if you look at it, all the strings just sits ‘on top of those threads’. No real “resting in a slot” contact.. and for some reason, the A string is ‘most’ prone to that issue.
I’m very close to replacing the bridge again, with saddles that are more encompassing…
I understand that people will point fingers and yell “sacrilege, no high mass, anything else won’t look period correct!”, blah blah
But I say, if the damn thing doesn’t function correctly, the “keep it vintage” flag-waving goes right out the window with me.
Anybody else having this experience with these old threaded saddles? Any modern single slot (carbon fiber maybe?) saddles on a new (better) design?
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I get annoying overtones on my Jazz with the newer 3/4 groove saddles, particularly on the E string. I've wondered if this is because of how the string sits on top of the groove and not in the groove.
This goes away once the strings completely break in, which fortunately is the sound I'm looking for right now. Unfortunately I have Hi-Beams on there right now and they are taking forever to break in.
I've had problems with nut slots being too wide, causing more of a buzz or mwah, and that has gone away as strings break in as well. But of course needing strings more dead than you would like is not really a solution...
Fender sells the old-school "bent plate" bridge with single-groove saddles, if I'm not mistaken.
Thank you for the reply. My strings are well broken in…. And yes, that’s also a problem when the “saddle slot is too wide for the string”… not the problem I’m having at the moment tho.
I do like the fact that you can realign the string on the saddle-if they don’t line up exactly with the poles,… (talking about ‘threaded saddles’ that is) but that’s just a testament, to the proper saddle spacing slots cut right the first time… on ‘single slot saddles’, that is
Yes, if you get the Fender single slot saddles, the strings will be 19mm apart and the E and G strings will be offset from the poles.
I argue this is a good design, however, because it compensates for the fact that the E and G strings are closer to the pickup on a normal radiused setup.
But you know what @Juicyanalog , I'm thinking Jazz basses, I forgot you said you had a P.
I don't own a P, but I believe the standard 19mm does center the string between the pole pieces.
Turnaround
Commercial User
Just a comment about the "stupid design" of the multi-groove saddles. Many of Fender's competitors offer bridges with adjustable spacing. To maintain their position in the game Fender offered them too. Useless or not, they served the purpose.
