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Setup Assistance

McThumpenstein

McThumpenstein

Mar 22, 2012
172
327
Michigan
#1
Hey everyone,
I've been reading post after post about the magic of a properly set-up bass, and another post about low action, so I figured it was time to get off my backside and give it a shot. I've done basic setups before using various guides on the internet, but this site let me to Jerzy's Ultimate Guide. So I have been using that.

I wanted to start on my 4 string, the '92 Peavey Foundation because I'd be devastated if i mangled the Carvin.

So, I had some questions about the instructions.

When it talks about adjusting the string height, it doesn't say at what point on the fretboard to measure. I tried at the 23rd fret, then the 12 fret, but this was from the fingerboard, not the top of the fret. Am I supposed to measure from the top of the fret?

In my case, on the G string, if i measure up 1.925 mm from the fingerboard, every note after the 12th fret is dead. If I go from the top of the fret and use the 7.5" template to set the string profile, the A and D string saddles sit VERY high.

I want to get my action set up correctly, and preferably on the lower side. I've read about a hundred different posts about similar problems, but I can't find the answer.

Any assistance or info you can provide is appreciated.
 
#2
Measure from the top of fret to bottom of the string at F12. Measure bass and treble (E and G on a four string) sides of neck.

The first thing to do in any set up is to adjust the relief.
The next thing is to regulate string height.
The last thing is intonation.
 
#3
Thank you very much for your reply.

I am, however, a little confused by it though as the Ultimate Guide says to set the string height and curvature first (pp 19-21) and then set the relief.
I'm not saying that this guide is the final word on the subject, but it was my understanding it was a very good resource on how to do this.

You did answer my question about where to measure from, and for that you have my thanks.
 
#4
McThumpenstein said:
Thank you very much for your reply.

I am, however, a little confused by it though as the Ultimate Guide says to set the string height and curvature first (pp 19-21) and then set the relief.
I'm not saying that this guide is the final word on the subject, but it was my understanding it was a very good resource on how to do this.

You did answer my question about where to measure from, and for that you have my thanks.
Click to expand...

The relief is the foundation. The string height is the framing. In construction, concrete comes before wood.

What they might be getting at is that the string height needs to be in the ball park before setting the relief. Reality is that most instruments are already there before work has begun. If you can shoot arrows off the neck, by all means lower the strings. Otherwise, truss rod first.
 
#7
202dy said:
The first thing to do in any set up is to adjust the relief.
The next thing is to regulate string height.
The last thing is intonation.
Click to expand...

Exactly, and do it in this order.

Some people like zero relief, but that requires precision fretwork - I like mine at about a credit cards thickness (or business card min.) at the 9th (24 fret neck). Use the 8th fret for 21 fret necks.
 
#8
I messed around with it for a while trying to figure out why I was getting dead frets after the 12th fret on the G-string, and as far as I could figure out, I was giving it too much truss rod and causing a flat spot. Once I went the other way, the dead frets went away. so I set the relief and then did everything else, and I think I'm right back where I started So I don't think low action is going to be a reality on this bass without shimming the neck.
But it was a good experience and I'm glad I did it.

Thanks everyone for answering my questions.
 
#12
so, at this point my head is swimming. If I want to get a smaller gap there, I need to tighten the truss rod to add more relief?

This is another thing that confused me about Jerzy's guide. It says
If you don't care so much about having high strings, then this distance can be very slight,
approximately .3mm. If you prefer rather low strings, this distance should be a little
greater.
Click to expand...

to me that seems backward, but I'm barely beyond dragging my knuckles on the floor and drooling on my shirt, so what do I know?
 
#13
McThumpenstein,

You tighten the truss rod to get less relief which will give you a smaller gap.

Loosening the truss will allow the neck to bow more, giving a wider gap.

Be advised, the difference in width between a business and credit card is about double (but still not a lot). It shouldn't take much of an adjustment.

Easy does it ;-)

Bob
 
#15
202dy said:
A credit card's thickness is too much. You're looking for .012" give or take a few thousandths. Business card is more like it.
Click to expand...

No it's not, and the clearance one uses is highly dependent on how precise the fretwork is. It also helps with fret buzz on the lower frets. I wouldn't go any more than that though.

OP - just depress the 1st and last fret simultaneously using your pinky for the last fret and reach your thumb as far as you can up the "G" string, and lightly tap down. There should be a slight gap. Business card < credit card. Once set - the others will be fine. Next step - action height.
 
#17
Aaaaaaaaaand WOW.
So it's done now (again). Holy crap! It's like a totally different bass. The action is light and fast, the tone is super clear. The pickups were really low because it's way louder now with the volume turned way down and the tone is fantastic. I'm really pleased that I can also dig in as hard as I want and there's not buzz at all.

Once more, than you to everyone who replied and helped. I can't tell you how happy I am, I was actually giggling a little when I was testing it out and my wife thought I'd finally dropped a cog. Now I can't wait to do the 6-string and turn that into an even better playing beast.

this place rocks!
 
#18
Solarmist said:
No it's not, and the clearance one uses is highly dependent on how precise the fretwork is. It also helps with fret buzz on the lower frets. I wouldn't go any more than that though.
Click to expand...

Relief is not dependent on fretwork. Relief highlights imprecise fretwork. Buzzing does not necessarily indicate that more relief need be added to the neck. Given that the geometry of the setup is correct, buzzing means that the frets should be investigated for uneven heights. If the frets are uneven a dress or re-fret should be performed, not adding more relief.
 

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