See..that's the thing. Most people that frequent this site are endorsed..or are "trying to help the bass community" by steering you into spending money. The endorsed aren't allowed to say the truth about a product. Then, there's the actual luthiers of the board, pretty much advertising. Talkbass is too biased on many subjects.
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Setup Woes
- Thread starter funkmaru
- Start date
- Jan 27, 2010
- 4,141
- 471
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Genz Benz Amplification
Bolded for emphasis. The guy literally had no idea what a CV was. He was trying to say the setup would still result in a buzzing neck "because it was a Squier" then when I tried to explain it was a CV Squier, he tried to change it up and said he "didn't think it was even a Squier, it must be something else because we sell those here and this doesn't look like that".
I was like WTH, the brand is on the headstock
And hey, don't tell me I'm wrong, the customer is always right 
I know what my bass is.
If you want to learn to set your own neck relief don't do it on small increments. Loosen the truss rod WAY up so you can really see the dip/
That seems to be the hardest thing for people to really see. You hear things like "use the stings as a straight edge and look at the fret board"
In order to see it you may have to put a boat load of relief in the neck. Then slowly straighten it out, visually checking and SEEING the change. Do it until it looks good then play.
You may want to straighten it till it buzzes and then back it off a tad.
This might take you an hour or two and if you really screw it up you can take it in and have someone reset it.
Then try again. In the long run this will save you time and money and let you dial your bass in exactly how you want it, not by some predetermined spec.
That seems to be the hardest thing for people to really see. You hear things like "use the stings as a straight edge and look at the fret board"
In order to see it you may have to put a boat load of relief in the neck. Then slowly straighten it out, visually checking and SEEING the change. Do it until it looks good then play.
You may want to straighten it till it buzzes and then back it off a tad.
This might take you an hour or two and if you really screw it up you can take it in and have someone reset it.
Then try again. In the long run this will save you time and money and let you dial your bass in exactly how you want it, not by some predetermined spec.
Check out John cruthers(sp?) YouTube videos on how to setup a bass. I'm pretty sure its 3 videos, a couple minutes each. Clear, concise, easy information.
Take notes, buy the tools from Amazon or wherever, and do it exactly how he does. Then you can adjust for your own taste after that. Its very easy, and rewarding.
You will need-
A capo
A ruler with 1/32 or 1/64 inch increments
A set of decent Allen keys
A set of feeler gauges
Nut files (these can be expensive, for a cheap alternative try a set of welding gun tip cleaners. Not a perfect match, but they will work. There are other options also, try a search)
Then do the 4 steps in this order-
Truss rod/relief
String height at bridge
String height at nut
Intonation
The videos explain how to do each one of these as well as show you how to do it.
After your done, play your bass for a bit, see if there is any BAD fret buzz (I like a little in mine), if the string height is comfortable (I like mine about 1/32-1.5/32in higher than in the video, but I play with a pick allot), change anything you don't like, and then enjoy.
That should get you started.
Take notes, buy the tools from Amazon or wherever, and do it exactly how he does. Then you can adjust for your own taste after that. Its very easy, and rewarding.
You will need-
A capo
A ruler with 1/32 or 1/64 inch increments
A set of decent Allen keys
A set of feeler gauges
Nut files (these can be expensive, for a cheap alternative try a set of welding gun tip cleaners. Not a perfect match, but they will work. There are other options also, try a search)
Then do the 4 steps in this order-
Truss rod/relief
String height at bridge
String height at nut
Intonation
The videos explain how to do each one of these as well as show you how to do it.
After your done, play your bass for a bit, see if there is any BAD fret buzz (I like a little in mine), if the string height is comfortable (I like mine about 1/32-1.5/32in higher than in the video, but I play with a pick allot), change anything you don't like, and then enjoy.
That should get you started.
This is good advice, but only if your bass is completely bowed, with the truss rod maxxed out(won't turn or work as it should).
Talk Bass isn't perfect, but it's nothing like what you have just described.
OP, just to add another resource, my favorite video on set ups is the one from Lakland. Go to You Tube and search Lakland set up and you'll find the 2 videos.
Had issues with tuner rattle on a couple basses. Wrapped them tightly with fat elastic bands (below the paddle) and the rattle disappeared. It ain't pretty, but it works and is much cheaper than a new set.
Thanks for the continued help everyone!
I'll be picking up my bass in a few hours, I'll look it over and give an update.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around the fact they had no idea what a Squier Classic Vibe was, and thought my bass "wasn't even a squier". Not to mention all the shady stuff they've tried to pull, such as suggesting a $200 tuner replacement, and somehow managing to start work on the bass in the 5 minutes it took me to tell them I'd rather come pick it up.
I just know I don't want guys like this working on my bass.
I'm expecting to show up there and have them tell me they went ahead and put the new strings on it, despite one of the guys telling me "it still has the (original) strings on it" yesterday afternoon when he claimed they already adjusted the neck, and I told them to stop....I have a hunch they're going to try and get every penny they can out of me.
I'll be picking up my bass in a few hours, I'll look it over and give an update.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around the fact they had no idea what a Squier Classic Vibe was, and thought my bass "wasn't even a squier". Not to mention all the shady stuff they've tried to pull, such as suggesting a $200 tuner replacement, and somehow managing to start work on the bass in the 5 minutes it took me to tell them I'd rather come pick it up.
I just know I don't want guys like this working on my bass.I'm expecting to show up there and have them tell me they went ahead and put the new strings on it, despite one of the guys telling me "it still has the (original) strings on it" yesterday afternoon when he claimed they already adjusted the neck, and I told them to stop....I have a hunch they're going to try and get every penny they can out of me.
NicJimBass
Flossin'? I thought your name was Munson!
Thanks for the continued help everyone!
I'll be picking up my bass in a few hours, I'll look it over and give an update.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around the fact they had no idea what a Squier Classic Vibe was, and thought my bass "wasn't even a squier". Not to mention all the shady stuff they've tried to pull, such as suggesting a $200 tuner replacement, and somehow managing to start work on the bass in the 5 minutes it took me to tell them I'd rather come pick it up.
I'm expecting to show up there and have them tell me they went ahead and put the new strings on it, despite one of the guys telling me "it still has the (original) strings on it" yesterday afternoon when he claimed they already adjusted the neck, and I told them to stop....I have a hunch they're going to try and get every penny they can out of me.
Yeah, $200 for a simple tuner swap is ludicrous. Even if they used very nice tuners, like Hipshot ultralites, the cost of 4 tuners is around $80 or so, and installing them isn't going to take $120 worth of time, unless they are incompetent.
Sorry to derail a moment, but that is just not the case. Most TB members are not endorsed, we are just people passionate about the low end.
As far as making you spend money, if you are talking about bouts of G.A.S., then sure, discussing all the cool equipment certainly can lead to excessive spending.
Sure there is bias, it's a forum, it's all about opinions (which are inherently biased), but that's half the fun
This. Or replace. The one's Floyd linked are very good. Or Hipshot Ultralights if your bass has a bit of neck dive.
As far as the fret buzz is concerned- if adjustments won't solve it, it will need a fret leveling. This isn't particularly cheap, but if you really like the bass it's worth doing.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around the fact they had no idea what a Squier Classic Vibe was, and thought my bass "wasn't even a squier". Not to mention all the shady stuff they've tried to pull, such as suggesting a $200 tuner replacement, and somehow managing to start work on the bass in the 5 minutes it took me to tell them I'd rather come pick it up.
I'm expecting to show up there and have them tell me they went ahead and put the new strings on it, despite one of the guys telling me "it still has the (original) strings on it" yesterday afternoon when he claimed they already adjusted the neck, and I told them to stop....I have a hunch they're going to try and get every penny they can out of me.
Don't pay for any work you didn't agree to. If they won't give you back the bass, call the cops and tell them they stole your bass and are demanding payment for return.
BTW, you still haven't said what shop this is. Shop name, city, please. So we can avoid in the future.
