Shielding question HELP! (Jag related)

[AllHookedUp]

Hoping someone here can enlighten me (and I'm confident you will).

In my posession is a spankin' new fender MIJ jaguar.

I'm looking to perform the shield mod on this beast and I noticed the shielding paint in the cavities is not showing any continuity on the multimeter....even touching an inch apart.

Am i missing something? Is the conductive paint underneath a clear coat...should I consider putting a screw in the side of the cavity to make proper contact?

My plan was to use adhesive foil to connect all cavities to the underside of the pickguard as described all over this forum, but I want to be sure that the sheilding paint is actually doing its job first.

thanks in advanced,

AHU

 

[Sundown1206]

Go on eBay, find a store called minideals or something like that. The store usually has cunductive/adhesive copper foil tape. Whatcha wanna do is connect each cavity to eachother with a strip of tape. Say from the preamp controls cav to the preamp chip cav, then chip cav to knobs cav, and then chip cav to switchescav. Then cover the areaon the back of the pickguard that wouldbe overthechip cav in the copper tape, andmakr sure the copper on the guard will touch the strips of tape connecting the cavities. That will coveryour stuff all youneed. Ive got a jag too it worked for me. And yes, copper worksbetter and minideals sells itvery cheap. It's not difficult but there is a thread somewhere with a helpful pic. Goodluck

 

[AllHookedUp]

thanks for the reply Goober, much appreciated.

 

[AllHookedUp]

I guess what i still don't understand is how the copper tape makes contact with the sheilding paint to establish continuity between all cavities. My multimeter with one lead on the sheilding paint in the preamp cavity should beep when I put the other lead in the pup control cavity....no?

 

[Willicious]

OP,
You might try this guy on Ebay

I'm currently applying this stuff to my Jazz, and it looks to be good stuff. When it dries, it's like a continuous metallic surface. Just applied my second coat, so when dry I'll check for continuity.

If this stuff works, I'm never going back to copper foil tape!
This stuff goes on SO easy.

 

[Sundown1206]

Lol that stuff does look good I just bought some myself

 

[Bongolation]

I guess what i still don't understand is how the copper tape makes contact with the sheilding paint to establish continuity between all cavities. My multimeter with one lead on the sheilding paint in the preamp cavity should beep when I put the other lead in the pup control cavity....no?

It has to make contact with the conductive paint. Any tape has to be electrically bonded to the paint, ideally with a little device specifically made for the job (I have one, but I don't know what it's called -- we referred to it as a "pinger"), but how you accomplish it is irrelevant as long as you get it done. The point is that there must be continuity between all of the metal cover plates and coated cavities when it's all buttoned up.

Scratch through to the conductive paint inside the cavities and you should read continuity between the probes, but the DCR may be high enough that you don't trigger a "beep." The paint may show 50-100 Ohms. That's fine. Lower DCR will not improve the shielding effect.

You don't need low resistance throughout the shield, merely complete coverage with continuity. People invariably get carried away here with this stuff.

When I benched my new Jaguar, the only isolated portion of all this was the top cavity and a jumper of gummed aluminum tape electrically attached to the conductive paint in the cavity and folded over underneath the plate fixed that.

 

[AllHookedUp]

It has to make contact with the conductive paint. Any tape has to be electrically bonded to the paint, ideally with a little device specifically made for the job (I have one, but I don't know what it's called -- we referred to it as a "pinger"), but how you accomplish it is irrelevant as long as you get it done. The point is that there must be continuity between all of the metal cover plates and coated cavities when it's all buttoned up.

Scratch through to the conductive paint inside the cavities and you should read continuity between the probes, but the DCR may be high enough that you don't trigger a "beep." The paint may show 50-100 Ohms. That's fine. Lower DCR will not improve the shielding effect.

You don't need low resistance throughout the shield, merely complete coverage with continuity. People invariably get carried away here with this stuff.

When I benched my new Jaguar, the only isolated portion of all this was the top cavity and a jumper of gummed aluminum tape electrically attached to the conductive paint in the cavity and folded over underneath the plate fixed that.

Thanks bongo,

think a "pinger" could be a small screw put though the copper tape into the side of the cavity?

 

[AllHookedUp]

OP,
You might try this guy on Ebay

I'm currently applying this stuff to my Jazz, and it looks to be good stuff. When it dries, it's like a continuous metallic surface. Just applied my second coat, so when dry I'll check for continuity.

If this stuff works, I'm never going back to copper foil tape!
This stuff goes on SO easy.

nice find, if i don't figure this out I'll likely take this route.

 

[Bongolation]

think a "pinger" could be a small screw put though the copper tape into the side of the cavity?

I think repeatedly tap-tapping a really sharp little brad point through the gummed tape into the conductive paint would do it, as that's all that a "pinger" does. It's just a tiny little wheel with super-sharp points on it, mounted to a swiveling handle. You just roll it pretty hard back and forth over the tape and it mashes a few hundred little sharp points of the foil tape into the paint. The gummed tape backing glue keeps it there.

Sounds flaky, but it works perfectly.

This is how they electrically bond conductive foils commercially.

 

[AllHookedUp]

I think repeatedly tap-tapping a really sharp little brad point through the gummed tape into the conductive paint would do it, as that's all that a "pinger" does. It's just a tiny little wheel with super-sharp points on it, mounted to a swiveling handle. You just roll it pretty hard back and forth over the tape and it mashes a few hundred little sharp points of the foil tape into the paint. The gummed tape backing glue keeps it there.

Sounds flaky, but it works perfectly.

This is how they electrically bond conductive foils commercially.

thanks, you're a true gentleman & scholar

 

[Joe Nerve]

No pinger or screws were needed when I did the fix. Everything is laid out real clearly here http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314955&highlight=noisy+jaguar .