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Short Scale Bass guidance please...

So...which would you select for your "arsenal"?


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I might end up back to my original thought, which was a Hofner Club (not the German one as I can't afford that one). I might even see if someone would consider a trade of sorts for this bass in return for a Hofner Club.
Very similar proportions to the Duesenberg, a fantastic option. Very comfy standing with strap, though the smaller/rounded body makes it a little harder to balance seated (vs solid body).
 
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Very similar proportions to the Duesenberg, a fantastic option. Very comfy standing with strap, though the smaller/rounded body makes it a little harder to balance seated (vs solid body).
True - but a massive difference in price. If money were no object, I'd have made this a lot easier. Which is why I was considering the imported Club basses only at this time. Man, I wish I could afford a German club - maybe after a few more well-paying shows - and after my kids go to college (they're only 11!).
 
Only advice I can offer is get a long scale. When I first started playing I had 3 hofners, a Gibson EB and a Peter Tork gretsch bass - as well as a couple long scales.

I got rid of all the short scales - because 1 ) didn't sound as good - the tone nowhere near as good , 2) didn't play as well - tension on the strings was all wrong.
 
Only advice I can offer is get a long scale. When I first started playing I had 3 hofners, a Gibson EB and a Peter Tork gretsch bass - as well as a couple long scales.

I got rid of all the short scales - because 1 ) didn't sound as good - the tone nowhere near as good , 2) didn't play as well - tension on the strings was all wrong.


Respectfully but totally disagree.

The bass isn't just the instrument. It's the instrument plus the player. Short scale basses have their uses and their place in a number of musical contexts, and can bring a sound to the mix no long scale can. And their tone can be every bit as good or better than a long-scale bass depending on the player. I own basses with short-scale, long-scale, and 35" necks and I can get a good sound out of all of them.

String tension will be different to be sure. How much different will depend on your string choice - but the short-scale will still have a softer feel. But it's nothing that should throw anybody off. Some players actually prefer the feel of a short-scale and play those to the exclusion of anything else. So go with your own weird when it comes to neck length.

BY way of example, here's Mike League of Snarky Puppy (who usually plays a PBass) doing a nice bit of bass work with a Hofner 500/1 in a musical genre that doesn't usually see a Beatle Bass. Check it out and see if you think it's inappropriate or has a lousy tone.



and lest we think that all short-scale basses fall into the $300 bargain counter grade of instrument, check out somebody who is doing really nice things with the shorter necked instrument:

 
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image.jpg
Respectfully but totally disagree.

The bass isn't just the instrument. It's the instrument plus the player. Short scale basses have their uses and their place in a number of musical contexts, and can bring a sound to the mix no long scale can. And their tone can be every bit as good or better than a long-scale bass depending on the player. I own basses with short-scale, long-scale, and 35" necks and I can get a good sound out of all of them.

String tension will be different to be sure. How much different will depend on your string choice - but the short-scale will still have a softer feel. But it's nothing that should throw anybody off. Some players actually prefer the feel of a short-scale and play those to the exclusion of anything else. So go with your own weird when it comes to neck length.

BY way of example, here's Mike League of Snarky Puppy (who usually plays a PBass) doing a nice bit of bass work with a Hofner 500/1 in a musical genre that doesn't usually see a Beatle Bass. Check it out and see if you think it's inappropriate or has a lousy tone.



and lest we think that all short-scale basses fall into the $300 bargain counter grade of instrument, check out somebody who is doing really nice things with the shorter necked instrument:


Just got a short scale 1978 Gretsch TK300. I take it all back - it's the best sounding short scale I've ever had. The low E is solid and the looser feel really works.
 
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Hello - ended up selling the Starcaster back as it ended up being too damn heavy for any regular gigging. So, back to square one. After playing several of the Hofner clubs (ignition and Contemporary), and some Danelectros, I'm not happy with those either as, to my ears only, they sound like one-trick-ponies. No disrespect intended - my opinion. I did however have the chance to see/hear someone play one of the Ibanez Artcore hollow body basses (the AFBV200A I think - the one that has the rustic/matte finish). With some really aged roundwounds, it sounded really nice, plus it seems to weigh a bit less as it's a true hollowbody, and not semi (with a solid core). Any opinions? I've yet to play one myself as no one seems to carry one nearby. I think my only concern is the bridge - seems like intonation would be a challenge.

If anyone is still watching this thread, I'd be curious about anyone's experience with these basses. Thanks for any suggestions you might offer!
AFBV200A_TCL_12_01_CU_Body_Top.jpg
 
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I think my only concern is the bridge - seems like intonation would be a challenge.

If anyone is still watching this thread, I'd be curious about anyone's experience with these basses. Thanks for any suggestions you might offer!View attachment 1008392

I've had several instruments with nonadjustable floating "stick" bridges.

RE: intonation with a floating bridge: Initial intonation can be a bit tedious but once it's an acceptable compromise ('cause that's probably all it's ever gonna be) I mark the position of the bridge foot with masking tape surrounding both ends of the foot and then slack the strings, remove the bridge and place a small pieces of white stick-on label cut to fit the area where the bridge fit between the masking tape, replace the bridge, tune up and check intonation. If all's good, I remove the masking tape and I have a easily seen indicator if the bridge shifts and it's easy to move the bridge back into position.

I intonate using the 12th and then 19th fret harmonics method with a Peterson StroboStomp 2 tuner.
 
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I've had several instruments with nonadjustable floating "stick" bridges.

RE: intonation with a floating bridge: Initial intonation can be a bit tedious but once it's an acceptable compromise ('cause that's probably all it's ever gonna be) I mark the position of the bridge foot with masking tape surrounding both ends of the foot and then slack the strings, remove the bridge and place a small pieces of white stick-on label cut to fit the area where the bridge fit between the masking tape, replace the bridge, tune up and check intonation. If all's good, I remove the masking tape and I have a easily seen indicator if the bridge shifts and it's easy to move the bridge back into position.

I intonate using the 12th and then 19th fret harmonics method with a Peterson StroboStomp 2 tuner.

And I realize they do have a model with a more "modern" adjustable bridge, but it's a semi-hollow, where this model is a true hollow body.
 
And I realize they do have a model with a more "modern" adjustable bridge, but it's a semi-hollow, where this model is a true hollow body.

Yes it is. I used to have the Ibanez AFB200 several years ago. Same hollowbody bass but with a non-relic'd sunburst finish and gold hardware. I was thinking of getting the relic'd version but I found an AF55 hollowbody guitar on sale for less than $250 new and converted it to a 4 string bass instead.

Here's that conversion:

Ibanez AF-55 Bass Conversion.jpg

It works very well but I may still get the AFBV200A.
 
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Try to find yourself a used Jerry Jones Longhorn semi hollow bass, as they are not in production anymore.

They are high quality versions of Danelectro's Longhorn basses.

I owned one ones, kind of regret selling it too, since it was really nice to play on and had a fantastic sound, and even a lot of sound variation possibilities, at least, beside the volume control, mine came with a tone control and a 4 way pickup switch that made you able to chose, bridge, neck, bridge+neck serial, bridge+neck parallel.

It seems though that some models only have volume, tone and a three way pickup switch.

Anyway, that would be my recommendation, hands down, in every case someone needs a semi/hollow body short scale bass.
 
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Try to find yourself a used Jerry Jones Longhorn semi hollow bass, as they are not in production anymore.

They are high quality versions of Danelectro's Longhorn basses.

I owned one ones, kind of regret selling it too, since it was really nice to play on and had a fantastic sound, and even a lot of sound variation possibilities, at least, beside the volume control, mine came with a tone control and a 4 way pickup switch that made you able to chose, bridge, neck, bridge+neck serial, bridge+neck parallel.

It seems though that some models only have volume, tone and a three way pickup switch.

Anyway, that would be my recommendation, hands down, in every case someone needs a semi/hollow body short scale bass.

Even the used ones I've (very rarely) seen are well above my budget. I've played the original Danelectros, and the modern imports, and honesty never really liked them. Even with the extra options on the Jerry Jones models, I just don't enjoy the feel of playing them. Guess I'm the odd bird here.
 

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