Should I pay or should I go now....? (Acoustic 360)

[Flacco]

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Gentlemen here tells me they are more "pre-amps" than traditional heads as I am used to. Sorry for the ignorance but what does that mean in terms of me being able to drive my pair of rumble 2x10's with these?

Is it still a good deal if I pair them with some power amps? What would I pair them with? Reccomendations?

Thanks

- Flacco

 

[skycruiser]

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Gentlemen here tells me they are more "pre-amps" than traditional heads as I am used to. Sorry for the ignorance but what does that mean in terms of me being able to drive my pair of rumble 2x10's with these?

Is it still a good deal if I pair them with some power amps? What would I pair them with? Reccomendations?

Thanks

- Flacco

Is it possible the seller's AC power outlet hot and neutral lines are just swapped, and that's why he's getting shocked? I had that problem with an outlet once that caused our TV rabbit-ear antenna to buzz you when touched. As for your other questions, I have no idea...

 

[Redbrangus]

It means they won't drive your speakers directly...you'll need to plug them into a power amp of some kind and then use the preamp ("head") to drive the power amp.

 

[Flacco]

It means they won't drive your speakers directly...you'll need to plug them into a power amp of some kind and then use the preamp ("head") to drive the power amp.

Any recommendations on power amps that would work with these? I am a newbie and have only knowledge of using heads (pre+power amp together) and not as separated units.

 

[JRA]

i don't think there is anything about those pre-amps which would make the seller's $60 asking price a bargain. the pre-amp and the power amp are 'married' inside the box, but if you pulled the pre-amp section and you figured out a way to use it with any power amp = you'd have to fabricate a box for it, install usable/competent connectors on the box, yada yada....

unless you can do the work yourself (cannibalize one for parts to build the other back to functionality) you're in for some expense:
- $60 = for the two
- $65+ = bench fee
- $130-$195+ = cost of repair --- if there are enough usable parts between the two!

most shops would tell you that you were urinating up a rope! i would pass and look for power amps in the $250-$300 range and then consider that you dodged a bullet...cheaply!

for PA use i once purchased two carver power amps "both with issues" (which were explained to me in detail) for next to nothing: after testing = i found that i could get one amp working by cannibalizing the other for parts (my goal) and i ended up with an amp in the rack for 15-16 years --- for peanuts + some time in the shop. but those were the days of fairly expensive $$ per watts, so it was worth it to me at the time...sort of. i wouldn't do that again now: too many competent, cheap, new/used options for raw power.

good luck!


don't do it.

 

[Redbrangus]

Practically any power amp would work. But...did you buy these? Do they work? Do you know how to tell if they work? (Implies that you have a power amp or a working stereo amp or something to plug it into, I guess.)

Edit: I'm presuming that these are the series/vintage that had the power amp in the speaker cab and the 'head' was just a preamp, like this: Acoustic 360 Bass amp | Chris's Gear Emporium

 

[Flacco]

Well it appears this is a bit of a hassle to get working. I appreciate the responses but I'm not looking for an EE project.