Of course, the point of using something wood to tap the saddles is so you don't mar the bridge or scratch the finish on the bridge. The trade-off of the more complicated intonation procedure is supposedly to have better tone and intonation. I will leave it to others to comment if that is actually the case.
GHS Progressives used to be so consistent that once I set the relief and intonation on my Rickenbacker 4002, (yes, "2," not "1" or "3") and believe me, if the OP thinks his bridge is tough, try setting dual hairpin truss rods and bridge saddles that have to be pre-threaded because the intonation screws actually thread to the bridge frame on both sides of the saddle, I never touched it in over twenty years.And - here's another tip. Put flatwounds on the thing. That way, you'll only have to screw with the bridge once every decade or so...![]()