It's controls are volume,clean,hi-z,tone,stab,drive,gate,punch,comp,dirt/mud and bass. Has a switch labeled Mode.
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Show your pedal guts.
- Thread starter iamdenialNJ
- Start date
Opened up the Industrialectric Incinerator to tighten some screws and secure the V meter.
I have a huge favor to ask - can anyone with an Aguilar Octamizer (or any Aguilar pedal for that matter) take a measurement of the PCB inside the pedal? And also a photograph if possible. I’m currently speccing a Wingbass and would like to see if the internals of the Octamizer will fit inside the control cavity!
Menatone Fargen VOS MkII
The two-or-so-year itch:
In 2016 I bought this pedal. In 2018 I traded it to my friend, a guitarist and fellow Menatone collector. Today, in January 2021, he traded it back to me.
We played it side-by-side with a big box Menatone VOS Fargen pedal he acquired. The big one was better for him. Insane lead sounds, more complex gain structure, and lots of range. This one, the small one, is better for me.
These are unobtanium, mind you, so lightning can strike twice.
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I get how it's normal looking to avoid copies of its design / tweaks of existing circuit design, but it somehow kills any further caps replacement or repair, which is one of through-hole circuit benefits.
I agree! But the truth is, in this application those parts don’t seem to wear out or fail. I have a number of vintage pedals and the only failures are switches and pots. In fact most electronics manufacturers will use a glue at the base of their capacitors to aid in reliability.
I suspect that Klon will last longer than I’ll be alive without a single board component failing. That goop may actually help that.
Sure thing, with some exceptions though, like shorter lifespan of some components - electrolytic ones is my guess, the same used in on-board Wal pre's, needing being replaced after 20 years or so. And some (rare indeed) issues not related to switches and pots unfortunately. That being said, this big chunk of epoxy may not prevent from repairing or having the pedal modded (in this case there's slight chance you don't want to mod a Klon). Epoxy melts above 500°F, my guess is components would be damaged with such heat, but it's possible i'm wrong ?
I've read a repair-persons report (retort?) about having to change out the charge pump — excavating the dead one out of the goop (not even de-gooping the whole board) was a PITA.
Component value drift from new would mean that no two Centaurs sound identical, but probably close enough in a band mix — certainly not as bad as discrepencies between vintage Muffs, but at least the Muffs are affordable-ish.
Regardless, I'd have a Klon on my board if it weren't priced out of the stratosphere.
I've heard real-deal Centaurs, but have never been in a situation to A/B one with a Klone.
I'll have to settle for a Klone and hope it's "close enough" and ultimately...
Honestly couldn't care less if a Klone's identical sounding to its inspiration-circuit, so long as it sounds good to my ears.
Component value drift from new would mean that no two Centaurs sound identical, but probably close enough in a band mix — certainly not as bad as discrepencies between vintage Muffs, but at least the Muffs are affordable-ish.
Regardless, I'd have a Klon on my board if it weren't priced out of the stratosphere.
I've heard real-deal Centaurs, but have never been in a situation to A/B one with a Klone.
I'll have to settle for a Klone and hope it's "close enough" and ultimately...
Honestly couldn't care less if a Klone's identical sounding to its inspiration-circuit, so long as it sounds good to my ears.
