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Show your self made " bridge "

Greenman

Greenman

Dec 17, 2005
1,295
7
Ontario Canada
#1
I see MPU has a very nice bridge that has been built using a drill press,files etc. Hambone has mentioned using router/drill press to do amazing things. Post pics or ideas if you have them.
I've allways liked the idea of working with and finishing brass and building custom bridges.
Regards
 
#4
teej said:
It may not be metal, but you never said what kind of bridge, so here's mine on an acoustic I restored.

And then I've got another wooden one (made of gaboon ebony) in the works for my Serenade.
Click to expand...
I've been reading up on acoustic basses. I have a remote retreat and need an unpluged version. If I don't build one I will buy one.
 
#12
Scott, your work is inspiring to say the least. Is there intonation adjustment though? That's where I'm having problems with what to do? I was thinking of a dovetail and sliding small wood into it? Problem is, I don't want just string tension to be what holds them in place.
 
#13
No, there is no user intonation adjustment, but I can say that bass strobed out perfect when it left the shop. I used some math I think I read from here (Suburban or pilotjones?) that I think said a good rough intonation distance is the size of the string x 2 (.100" for low E x 2 = scale length + .2"). From there I shaped the crown points to be perfectly intonated, just like you would on a normal acoustic guitar with a bone saddle.

The next one will have adjustable metal saddles (height and intonation) so that is a little easier to swallow for those people who like to constantly adjust, even if the millions of acoustic guitar owners are perfectly happy not having to (and those move around a lot more then an solid electric bass).
 
#15
Scott French said:
No, there is no user intonation adjustment, but I can say that bass strobed out perfect when it left the shop. I used some math I think I read from here (Suburban or pilotjones?) that I think said a good rough intonation distance is the size of the string x 2 (.100" for low E x 2 = scale length + .2"). From there I shaped the crown points to be perfectly intonated, just like you would on a normal acoustic guitar with a bone saddle.

The next one will have adjustable metal saddles (height and intonation) so that is a little easier to swallow for those people who like to constantly adjust, even if the millions of acoustic guitar owners are perfectly happy not having to (and those move around a lot more then an solid electric bass).
Click to expand...

I agree with you, although I like the idea of having the ability to adjust just in case.
 
#16
This is mine off my new bass. It's brass, Madagasscar Ebony, and Maple. I used the same design I used on my first bass. It is free floating and sanded to fit the contours of the body. It works great and I've never had an issue with the first model over the past ten years I've been playing it.
I guess I have to clean up the glue around the fretboard.:hmm:
Link Removed
 

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