So, This Happened...

L1 fell out.

Typically bigger parts like that, in addition to being soldered down to the circuit board by their leads, are also secured with some glue. Lacking the glue, the part can wiggle and the solder joints can come undone over time.

On second look, L1 was held in by a zip-tie that looks like it broke.

But perhaps equally seriously, it looks like there's a black wire with a "faston" terminal on it, that's not plugged into anything.

 

I don't know how old your cabinets are, but zip ties do become brittle when exposed to heat and over time. If I recall correctly, the black ones are made of a slightly different plastic and last longer.

 

Yes, it's a very easy fix by someone competent with a soldering iron.

 

Hopefully that's all it needs. Importantly, it looks like the wire coming out of the center of the coil is intact. If that wire breaks off, it gets more complicated. The tech can tell if it needs to be reinforced in some way.

 

I'd check all the other solder joints. Some stress may have been put on the board. The inductor is like a big heat sink, the original solder joints may not have been solidly bonded and the wires pulled out. Seen this happen.

 

Maybe Don can repair it for you if you send it to him?

 

I see you are in Plano TX - I am in Lewisville, and have the tools and skills to put L1 back on. Send me a message if you would like me to take a look at it.

 

Colour does not make difference here. Cheap zip ties are brittle where professional ones last. In my company we use white pro quality zip ties in electronics we manufacture and they will stand over time where black consumer level black zip ties broke easily even when new.

 

If your spare 2x10 is the same as the broken one, it might help to get a clue how your cab needs to be fixed by looking inside.

 

Or... how about looking at this as a sign from above. Time to buy a new cab. Maybe something a little bigger? Something new you've always wanted? If February and March are in fact 'crazy gig months', then investing in something that can withstand some bumps on the road is worth the money. With extra gigs, you will have the extra money. And most importantly, you deserve to have something nice. Go for it. Post pictures of the new cab!!!

 

bring it to s.a. on your next visit and we'll get that puppy singing again

 

Inductors are fairly heavy for their size (lot of copper, which is dense stuff), and they're only attached by two leads (made of copper which isn't all that strong, and is prone to work hardening and fatigue). In transportation and use, any impacts and/or vibration can and will shake inductors loose, unless you take extra precautions to glue or tie them down somehow. The zip tie was an extra (but not sufficient) precaution. I have fixed enough speakers and amps for folks to know that inductors and big capacitors (the one next to your inductor is something you should glue down) fail from mechanical shock and/or vibration with alarming regularity. It's part of life; manufacturers don't always get the preventative measures right.

One thing I typically did to protect amps was to float them on foam pads, so they didn't get the full vibration from the speaker cabinet. OK, you can't do that for stuff in the speaker, but if you want an amp head to not slowly disassemble itself, it's a good idea. Here, you gotta realize when you put Humpty back together, he needs something more than just a zip tie to stay together.

 

These, then?
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-white-cable-ties-100-pack-60257.html

 

Props for not dropping the cab while hoisting it. Sorry to hear of your troubles. I've had numerous conversations with Don Oatman. He's a stand up guy. Between him and all the helpful folks around here you should be able to solve this without shipping it back to LDS.

M. M.

 

I'd solder it back in, secure a new tie, seep some super glue between the plastic flanges and board, then use some silicone adhesive between the coil and board.