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So... This is what GAS feels like

dude is it GAS or a midlife tone crisis? lol.. it seems like you got in a playing rut.. thus you divorced your old bag of tricks., in favor of a new Blonde7k, and hot rod amp.

are you sure you don't need an intervention, and a Rolaid for your BAD GAS!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? lol
 
If the amp is blowing breakers (at the service panel I assume) then the breaker is bad, the breaker or circuit is undersized, there are other things operating on that breaker's circuit or your amp has a problem.
A power conditioner won't fix any of the above.

Kinda wonder how it is that you can trip a breaker (back at the panel I assume) without blowing a fuse in the amp first? Have you checked to see if it has the proper fuse, both in amperage and how it blows, fast-blo or slow-blo, is installed? If not you could harm the amp.

The DB 750 turns itself off. It protects itself. but it needs 1800 watts at startup. So it's like a shot of adrenaline at startup. So if the power system at that place is not up to par it blows the breakers at the house.

And I play at a few bad venues from time to time. I don't want to bring the house down with the strength of Mighty Aguilar.

I contacted Aguilar, gave them the serial and it's an older model. They could send me a part that's called a thermistor that will solve the problem.

Problem is I live in Norway and I just could not wait that long. It takes a week plus to get the part, then I would have to give it to a technician to fix it. then hopefully that would fix the issue.

I contacted the seller, he knew about it. We made a deal, I sent the amp back and got my money back. Great amp, but he should have mentioned it that it had a few issues with power. :nailbiting:
 
dude is it GAS or a midlife tone crisis? lol.. it seems like you got in a playing rut.. thus you divorced your old bag of tricks., in favor of a new Blonde7k, and hot rod amp.

are you sure you don't need an intervention, and a Rolaid for your BAD GAS!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? lol

Started with me getting a phase 90 for my 30'th birthday. Then a friend of mine gave me a vortex flanger. "The beat goes on," as macho man would say.
But yeah, Selling my Sansamp Programmable BDDI was probably what tipped me over. And I'm glad I did!
I've had so much good gear that i've sold and traded the last few years. But GAS keeps me going.
 
20170113_190131.jpg 20170113_190152.jpg I think that this is more thanks enough........for now.
 
The DB 750 turns itself off. It protects itself. but it needs 1800 watts at startup. So it's like a shot of adrenaline at startup. So if the power system at that place is not up to par it blows the breakers at the house.

And I play at a few bad venues from time to time. I don't want to bring the house down with the strength of Mighty Aguilar.

I contacted Aguilar, gave them the serial and it's an older model. They could send me a part that's called a thermistor that will solve the problem.

Problem is I live in Norway and I just could not wait that long. It takes a week plus to get the part, then I would have to give it to a technician to fix it. then hopefully that would fix the issue.

I contacted the seller, he knew about it. We made a deal, I sent the amp back and got my money back. Great amp, but he should have mentioned it that it had a few issues with power. :nailbiting:

Ahh. OK. Well sounds like you resolved it and all is well.

Normally when you run current through a resistor it causes the resistor to heat up.
As the heating increases so does the resistance which causes more heating.
If this is allowed to go on unabated, something will eventually blow.
A Thermistor acts sort of in reverse.
As it heats up, the resistance goes down.
So when it is cold, when you first switch on your amp it is at it's max resistance and limits current flow, hopefully preventing tripping a breaker. Then as it gets warmer the resistance goes down and you work up to max current.
So in essence, it turns on power to your amp more slowly, controlling the inrush current.
One could, in theory build the thermistor into an external box with appropriate power connectors. Then if you get some place where the wiring is dicey and you blow breakers, you could just add the box in line. If you don't need it, don't use it.

If you've ever seen those little round things that are supposed to extend the life of an incandescent bulb that you put in a light socket, and then screw in the bulb, there ya go. Light bulbs usually burn out right when you turn them on. The little doo-hickey slows down the inrush current and the bulb turns on more slowly and doesn't burn out as soon.

Light bulbs can be used in series to control inrush current, but you need to use the right kind of bulb depending on how much current is involved. This is for professional screwer-arounders only. Do not try this at home.
 

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