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Solid state bass amp

Sep 7, 2014
13
1
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I own an ibanez promethean solid state bass amp. 15" speaker. I've owned it for 18 months. Played consistently for an hour each day and once a week for four hours. Never a problem. Last week I played for 6 hours straight, no problems. It was the first time I played at this persons house. Last night I again played at the same location, but had a problem. About 3.5 hours in, the bass completely cut sound. Power lights remained on, but no sound. No static leading up to it and no fading in and out. I turned off for a minute and turned back on. It worked for fifteen minutes and did the same thing. It was a humid hot night. Also, the place I played has a 60 amp service that has light dimming occasionally, so voltage could be an issue. Is there an automatic kill on these amps with poor voltage or too much heat. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
I own an ibanez promethean solid state bass amp. 15" speaker. I've owned it for 18 months. Played consistently for an hour each day and once a week for four hours. Never a problem. Last week I played for 6 hours straight, no problems. It was the first time I played at this persons house. Last night I again played at the same location, but had a problem. About 3.5 hours in, the bass completely cut sound. Power lights remained on, but no sound. No static leading up to it and no fading in and out. I turned off for a minute and turned back on. It worked for fifteen minutes and did the same thing. It was a humid hot night. Also, the place I played has a 60 amp service that has light dimming occasionally, so voltage could be an issue. Is there an automatic kill on these amps with poor voltage or too much heat. Any advice would be appreciated.

Any time I hear this, I immediately think of thermal issues although this does not always mean the unit is overheating and shutting down.

*Check to make sure the fan is spinning. As I understand it, the fan speed is variable and coincides with heat level.

*Both your headphone and FX loop jacks are prone to all sorts of gremlins if corrupted via oxidation, etc. You can deoxit all three and then, for good measure, jam a 1/4" plug into each a few times. You can even go as far as to run a straight signal / instrument cable between the FX send and return. I've seen this more than a handful of times and, while not present at start-up, will suddenly appear once up to temp.

Riis
 
Lights dimming indicates a voltage drop in the AC. The newer micro amps are very prone to shutting off immediately if it encounters such issues. If you have an older amp, I would use that at that particular location. Many places do not have dedicated circuits but have circuits being shared with lighting and other things. Not good.
 
Low class, I have enjoyed this amp and to date no problems. I am a novice though, so there is probably a whole other world of great amps out there that would blow my mind. I bout this 18months ago and the amp warranty is gone. Rather then abandon this amp, I'd like to either fix or understand the issue
 
Should the fan kick on at the start of a turn on or auto after heat rises

Good question. Might want to drop Ibanez a line for clarification. In the meantime, here's a neat experiment:

Remove the head from the combo and place in a near form-fitting box. Cut a small port for the power cord, power up the amp, and replace the box lid. You've pretty much lost your atmospheric heat sink so the fan, if working properly, should jump to life fairly quickly and audibly.

Riis
 
I'd also suspect line voltage drop or malfunctioning cooling fan.

Most of these newer amps have some circuitry built in to protect against such things that shut them down before damage occurs. Switching the unit off and on often resets the protection.

I would take a voltmeter back to that place next time, leave it connected to the circuit you're plugged into, and see if it strays from normal periodically while playing.
 
Zoober, I'm going to try that troubleshooting later and I'll let you know. Thanks. Will, valid point too.

A question I have is if the fan doesn't kick on, is replacement easy? Also, could the control that kicks it on be the problem and replacement be useless in some cases
 
Fan replacement isn't too difficult but yes, you'd need to verify it's the fan and not the circuit controlling it.

The fan can be tested by removing it from the circuit/amp, and applying the correct voltage to it. Depending on the type of fan, that could be a small DC, or could be AC line source. Must first find out the spec of fan they used.

I'd try Zoobers method first as its less work.
 
Will, I'm leaning more that way of voltage for this reason. After practice the owner told me he has a 60 amp service for his whole house. He has a fridge, electronics and a jakuzzi! The problem happened an hour after he started an air conditioner I would bet money is on the same circuit. We also had a pa, 2 other amps, computers, electronic drum set and a synth on the same circuit. The amp I have allows the grounding to be adjusted. Does that help the situation. Also, is there a product out there that controls or bipasses that voltage control. If I don't have confidence in a xrappy bars service I would hate to have that on my mind
 
Thr air conditioner and jacuzzi isn't going to leave a lot left for everything else.

Hot tubs are supposed to be on their own dedicated circuit with GFCI.

He is sitting in water that's hooked up to electric motors and heaters after all. That's dumb enough to be dangerous. :/
 
Will, I'm leaning more that way of voltage for this reason. After practice the owner told me he has a 60 amp service for his whole house. He has a fridge, electronics and a jakuzzi! The problem happened an hour after he started an air conditioner I would bet money is on the same circuit. We also had a pa, 2 other amps, computers, electronic drum set and a synth on the same circuit. The amp I have allows the grounding to be adjusted. Does that help the situation. Also, is there a product out there that controls or bipasses that voltage control. If I don't have confidence in a xrappy bars service I would hate to have that on my mind

Well, it could be a line drop and I would be suspicious if the unit works flawlessly in any other like environment for prolonged periods. The ground lift would be probably have no effect and is used when there is a ground conflict amongst various components...doesn't appear to be the issue here. Voltage control? Not sure what you're getting at here.

Riis
 
Maybe the jacuzzi is on its own circuit, but the guy needs a 100 or 125 amp main service incoming the house to run stuff like that. 60 isn't much for a typical 3-4 bedroom house with modern ammenities.

All that regardless of whether or not it has anything to do with your amp troubles.

According to agedhorse and some others here who know what they're doing with smps/class d stuff, they're Ok until voltage drops to around 95 or so. It would take some doing/lots of stuff pulling on the circuit you're plugged Into, possibly/probably with an oversized breaker to suck it that low.
 
I have the same amp (P3115) and have never had a problem. Had it for a couple years. I have never played it as often as the OP but I will say that the fan has never come on and I've had it at some 3 hr rock shows. A couple of things to check:

1) Ive changed the speaker and noticed they used spade lugs from the factory. You might want to check that the spade lugs have not loosened and became a bad connection. this involves removal of six screws on the front then the speaker. Ive soldered mine.

2) Make sure on the rear of the amp that the switches aren't pushed in or smashed. Also make sure the fan isn't pushed in (not a lot of protection back there).

Promethn004_zpsd78be919.jpg
 
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