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Solid state bass amp

I know what you're going thru and what'll fix the problem. It's the same thing I have for my keyboards (I also use it on my bass amps in new places).
I'll put my money on undervoltage especially since the house has 60 amp service and the homeowner already has alot of home appliances pulling alot of current.

A Tripp-Lite LC-1800 automatic voltage regulator and surge suppressor. It'll put out a constant 110v. It has 5 lights on the front letting you know how bad the power is going into it.

I played a festival some years ago and got to watch this happen to a band that went on before me. The keyboard player's keyboards would up and quit on him. I plugged in my stabilizer in, then my keyboards. The lowest voltage light came on but I never lost power all night while everyone else had their amps cutting in and out.

I really doubt that the amp is getting hot. And since this is only happening at one place and it's already known for the lights dimming that the amp has to be not getting enough power.
 
Nope, I've just had them come in handy before, bad ground, outlet 2 feet away had a ground.

BTW, bad grounds can be dangerous correct?
Can voltage drops be dangerous?

The OP asked a question specifically about his amp cutting out and low voltage. Your suggestion did not IMO address his problem/question.

Yes, a missing ground can be dangerous... and yes, low voltage can also be dangerous to SMPS and class D amps which is why most have at least some form of low voltage protection that shuts down the PWM section to prevent damage.
 
Can voltage drops be dangerous to me?
That wasn't the OP's question.

Staying on topic, voltage drops can certainly be dangerous to the OP's amp. (and maybe your amp also)

It would depend on the situation if would be dangerous to you. If it was caused by a high resistance connection, it could cause a fire due to overheating of the defective connection, for example,
 
Update. Just tried it at my house and played for a minut and died. Heard a slight crackle and then nothing. Dead for now/. The head power light is on and when I play the electronics appear to work, meaning the alarm light (light that begins to change color when to much rocking is happening) is working without sound
 
Use the effects loop to chain it to another, known to be good amp. That'll help isolate the problem to one of 3 sections...preamp, poweramp, or power supply.

Doesn't mean presto, do this and this and you're good again, but could help narrow down cost/complexity of repair.

Also check all cables, pots, jacks, switches, preamp tube/socket if applicable, etc. Verify all the cheap/easy stuff is good first.
 
60 amp is more for something like a hunting/fishing/resort cabin that might have a water heater on one branch and electric stove on the other.

Hardly any room for laundry facilities or an air conditioner, let alone Jacuzzi Guy.
 
Will. I'm a project manager for a utility company. When he told me sixty amp service and had a jacuzzi I was blown away. I have upgraded 1000 houses and never heard of a service that overloaded. Also, whoever installed that spa was an ass. This guy bought it that way.
 
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Will. I'm a project manager for a utility company. When he told me sixty amp service and had a jacuzzi I was blown away. I have upgraded 1000 houses and never heard of a service that overloaded. Also, whoever installed that spa was an ass. This guy bought it that way.
If you want to run your coffeemaker and your microwave at the same time In the morning you need current, man.

Let alone hairdryers, clothes dryers, a/c's or furnaces, stoves, etc., etc.

Even big "power hog" music amplifiers don't suck as much juice as stuff people take for granted every day.

And we still haven't factored in the jacuzzi!

But you know this.

I don't know exactly what this condition could've done to your smps/class d bass amp, but I know it's not good.

Do the patching around with another good amp (in a good house) to help isolate the problem.

Might be time for a call to Ibanez.