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Squier Owners Club

Recently traded my Squier '77 VM jazz for a VM Jaguar as a back-up for my '70 VMJ. Very pleased with the switch, a better pairing with my work-horse jazz, the '77 just wasn't there. Here it is on it's first gig out a couple weeks back. A set of DR Black Beauties (which I use on all 3 of my basses) and it was ready to go.
 

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Recently traded my Squier '77 VM jazz for a VM Jaguar as a back-up for my '70 VMJ. Very pleased with the switch, a better pairing with my work-horse jazz, the '77 just wasn't there. Here it is on it's first gig out a couple weeks back. A set of DR Black Beauties (which I use on all 3 of my basses) and it was ready to go.
Is that a "Ball" mic hanging in front of the Acoustic bass cab? If so, how is it working out?
 
Yepper....something the sound guy pulled out. He had me miked with that and also DI..... my vintage Acoustic rig was kickin' arse as always.
I have 2 of the blue ball mics, I've yet to use them (time issues). I suppose I'll find out how they work when I go to use them. I intend on using them for instruments .. my Hammond/Leslie, guitars, basses, and so on.
 
Bottom of the Squier line. Need we say more?

Lots. The Affinity 5 is fully giggable. It has the formula old school sound--rosewood on maple neck, alder body (at least the one I bought a year ago did--they've stopped listing Squier woods on the Fender site). What difference do block inlays make? Chrome knobs (mine had plastic)? The pickups say they're designed by Duncan, but where are they made, and by whom? Is a soft maple body really an improvement? Maybe the maple fretboard, but only if that's your personal preference.

Between the Affinity 5 and the first Fender Jazz 5 I played in the early 90s, there wasn't much difference. The B wasn't happening. But when I bought the Affinity, out of curiosity, I looked at the Fender Jazz 5 specs. It had tapered core strings. So I slapped some on the Affinity. The B opened right up. I'd guess Circle K strings would have made an even bigger improvement on that B.

See, when a giant company makes a zillion models, they go for product differentiation. They want a range that spans this price to that price, and then they figure out how to make enough difference that they can motivate people to drop as much cash as possible. Most of it is obvious--appearance and electronics. The string switch, well, it's right there on the web site.

As smart consumers, it's up to us to find those points of differentiation and see if they're worth the price diff. The most significant sound diff was a set of strings that isn't worth $200 to me. And the pickups worked fine, although realistically, don't most players change out Chinese pickups sooner or later?

Now I bought the Affinity 5 on a whim off the web. But anyone buying their first or only bass should read the specs carefully, understand what differences they can expect, and actually go play them side by side. I do think the Affinity will satisfy many folks who would ordinarily buy the most expensive model they can afford.
 
i'll join the club, here is a Squier Standard P-Bass that has been modded.

*Reranch Sonic Blue Nitro re-fin
*Allparts mint pickguard
*Fender Pickup cover & thumb rest
*Fender '62 RI Pickup
*"LOVE" sticker from the yellow submarine dvd

strung with flatwounds and piece of dense foam by the bridge.

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Lots. The Affinity 5 is fully giggable. It has the formula old school sound--rosewood on maple neck, alder body (at least the one I bought a year ago did--they've stopped listing Squier woods on the Fender site). What difference do block inlays make? Chrome knobs (mine had plastic)? The pickups say they're designed by Duncan, but where are they made, and by whom? Is a soft maple body really an improvement? Maybe the maple fretboard, but only if that's your personal preference.

Between the Affinity 5 and the first Fender Jazz 5 I played in the early 90s, there wasn't much difference. The B wasn't happening. But when I bought the Affinity, out of curiosity, I looked at the Fender Jazz 5 specs. It had tapered core strings. So I slapped some on the Affinity. The B opened right up. I'd guess Circle K strings would have made an even bigger improvement on that B.

See, when a giant company makes a zillion models, they go for product differentiation. They want a range that spans this price to that price, and then they figure out how to make enough difference that they can motivate people to drop as much cash as possible. Most of it is obvious--appearance and electronics. The string switch, well, it's right there on the web site.

As smart consumers, it's up to us to find those points of differentiation and see if they're worth the price diff. The most significant sound diff was a set of strings that isn't worth $200 to me. And the pickups worked fine, although realistically, don't most players change out Chinese pickups sooner or later?

Now I bought the Affinity 5 on a whim off the web. But anyone buying their first or only bass should read the specs carefully, understand what differences they can expect, and actually go play them side by side. I do think the Affinity will satisfy many folks who would ordinarily buy the most expensive model they can afford.
I've learned that this entire notion is true as well. If you look at any one of the subforums in this place, you'll see countless bass players that want to change this, or buy that, or install this or that.

Fair enough.

So you buy a bass and end up chaning the strings, the pickups, maybe even the pots, put better tuners on it, even change the bridge. So how much of what originally came with it did you actually "keep"? So many times you end up changing out a bunch of stuff so why bother paying Fender or whoever for stuff you're probably not going to retain anyhow?

I've owned $3k basses, and $300 basses. I still had to send the $3k bass to a luthier for fret leveling, and the $300 bass needs it as well. I ended up changing out the electronics on the $3k bass for EMG stuff. It ended up with a Hipshot bridge as well. By the time I was done with it, I paid $3k for a fretted neck (that required leveling), painted body, some screws, and a pickguard.

No more. I've been goofing with this shyte since 1992 as a bass player, and 1978 as a "musician" (I use the term loosely). No more $2k amps, no more $2k basses, no more $1k cabs. Any more, with a bass I look for a decent foundation and add to that. It ends up costing a lot less and turning out just as good (or better) than starting off with the full banana.

My bass amp rig will end up costing less than a used SVT head, and it is already 40x more versatile and far more reliable, and far less expensive should it ever go down.

I've removed myself from the little hamster wheel, going nowhere fast. I shall no longer submit myself to "the game" and buy things that are popular or prestigeous. I don't care if my amp system isn't "cool" or "approved of" and I don't care if I get giggled at because it says Squier on my headstock. I don't need to own status symbols any longer. I've grown out of proving my financial status and my social station.

And even so .... I still got that rockin' bone.
 
I mean, look at my Telecaster ..... 100% aftermarket. Warmoth body (no paint) Warmoth neck (no paint). All of the money went where it counts. I hacked up the body to suit my needs, no longer caring about "preserving tradition". SCREW IT! Make it work, play it.

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I oil the solid alder body every few months, and the padouk neck feels like the finest wood under my hands, no finish required with padouk. No finish means less money. Stainless frets, Sd 1/4 pounder pickups with coil taps, Gotoh bridge, Planet Waves self trimming/locking tuners. This is my most cherished guitar. Total cost? <$1k. It's way better player and tone beast than a MIA Tele that wouldn't be nearly as well equipped that would cost 25% to 35% more money just to start out with.