Thanks bgavin. Yes, I think I can get a 32 1/2 x 28 5/8 x 13" cab into the trunk (the reason I say 32.5" is I assume the cab walls are 3/4" thick, if I can get 1/2" walls with composites, maybe I can achieve my target 32"). The question is whether the cab will be stiff enough with the speaker rims touching each other and the cabinet walls. The baffle board will be very thin at those points. Other ways I can get a 32" length is to shave 1/8" off each speaker frame on opposite sides, or rebate a small section of the cab wall edge by 1/4" at top and bottom to receive the frames (if the walls stick out). I have asked these questions over there and rec'd no answer. I hope I get one, because the AIMS amps want to see 5 ohms, and I am stuck with a pair of 15PR400 that I bought for the project, one 3015, and one EVM15B, all 8 ohms.
I want to record the answers for the questions I asked and DID receive answers for, so anyone who reads this far in this thread for these answers can learn what can't be done:
1. Re the pic: Diagonals suck.
2. Re using 2 stacked uuu12s (I can fit 2 of these in my trunk): No. The cab was designed for light weight. The impedance curve is unfriendly to tube amps.
3. Re the Cobalt 2-dr: Only Yakima makes a car top rack for it, and due to the way the roof is built (also the Pontiac and Saturn counterparts) you have to settle for only 16" between rack pipes. This sounds very unstable. A 215 cab would have to go ACROSS the roof, and the basic rack new costs over $300. It can be pieced together from used and new parts but will likely cost $200. The Yakima extension kit, which allows a much greater stretch between pipes, will not work on the Cobalt 2-dr. If you have a Cobalt 4-dr, no prob, you get 34" between pipes, no need for the extension kit.