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stewmac spoke wheel truss rod nut mod?

tedsalt

Supporting Member
Aug 5, 2010
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Kansas City
I'd like to change my RW P & J basses truss rods to the stewmac spoke wheel nut. Do most people route the body or the neck? And what size router bit is used for which?

I'm comfortable routing (have routed for P2 soapbars), just need to get the right size bit and route the correct piece of wood :)

Actually I'd feel more comfortable routing the body, rather than the neck. That would seem to be a little trickier ...

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions!!!
 
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I have thought of trying one on my RW neck too.
I am not sure of the length, diameter and thread pitch.
The only way to find out is to order one.

You would have to route the body and pick guard.
I would make a template and use a 3/8 bit
 
According to Invalid Link Removed

it looks like the hot rod uses the same spoke wheel nut, and requires an access cavity for the adjustment nut, and a straight 7/32"-wide x 7/16"-deep slot (measured from the bottom of the fretboard) for installation
 
It appears that people routing the neck are for 24 fret necks, and standard necks people route the body.

I guess if I take it apart this much, it would be nice to have the correct router bit handy if the spoke wheel nut does work, so I can go ahead and route it out.

So if anyone has a router bit size they use when routing the body for the spoke wheel nut, I would appreciate it!
 
Modded my RW P. One more to go (the RW J) ...

standard truss rod nut on a MIM RW P neck
IMG_3574.jpg


IMG_3575.jpg

with the spoke wheel nut. fit just fine, no issues whatsoever.
IMG_3576.jpg


IMG_3578.jpg


IMG_3581.jpg

some pics of both
IMG_3582.jpg


IMG_3583.jpg


IMG_3584.jpg

figuring out where I have to route.
IMG_3586.jpg

routed out (using a dremel with a router base attachment).
wasn't perfect, but it's a RW, and a player at that!
IMG_3590.jpg

strung up. hardly notice it. will make adjusting the neck a breeze!
IMG_3591.jpg
 
Here's the Dremel with the router base ...
IMG_3593.jpg


And the RW J. Route the wood first, starting with a thinner layer at the top. Don't try to route out the whole depth at once (just like one would with a full sized router). Then lower the bit some and take another pass until you've routed out as deep as you need. Then route the pickguard, taking it very slow when you get near the finished size/shape, as it's easy to route it out too much. Mine's a player, so meh ...
IMG_3594.jpg

From now on, easy peasy neck adjustments and setups! No more loosening the neck from the body!
 
as an alternative, you could leave the stock cross-slotted truss rod nut in there, rout a notch in the body, and use something like Invalid Link Removed to adjust.

or you could swap the nut out for the fender american standard version, rout the little notch in the body and use a sawed-off hex key to adjust. i did that with my reissue tele guitar, for exactly the same reason (got the idea from suhr guitars).

or or, with a jazz bass you could do either of the above, pop off the pickguard and just rout the notch in the body; that way you don't have to make it so perfect-looking, the pickguard will cover all. (you just have to remove the pickguard for truss rod tweaks, but that's not a big deal on a J bass.)
 
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Well, there's always next time. Thanks for letting me know about these other options though! There are surely others interested in something like this. The american standard version sounds pretty nice. I'll have to look into that ...
 
I'm going to be doing this to a friend's Telecaster. I hate the vintage style truss nut. And so does he... he was about to sell the guitar because of it. I wondered about trying this for him, looks like it's a good mod.
 
for the tele, you can also do the less obtrusive version, put a fender american standard guitar truss rod nut in there, cut a small notch in the pickguard and body, and saw off a 1/8" hex wrench just past the curve to adjust it.
 

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