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Stingray + Hartke = pfffft

The 2500 is a strange agent with some nasty bumps (to my ears) in the low and upper mids. First off, forget the onboard compressor as it hinders more than helps. Use the high & low filters to approximate the desired tone, then activate the GEQ. Note: the sliders centered do not create a flat tonal profile. IIRC, I had to drag more than one slider to the basement to knock-out the "nasalness". I do remember this: the resulting slider profile resembled a "seagull in flight banking to starboard".

Riis
 
The 2500 is a strange agent with some nasty bumps (to my ears) in the low and upper mids. First off, forget the onboard compressor as it hinders more than helps. Use the high & low filters to approximate the desired tone, then activate the GEQ. Note: the sliders centered do not create a flat tonal profile. IIRC, I had to drag more than one slider to the basement to knock-out the "nasalness". I do remember this: the resulting slider profile resembled a "seagull in flight banking to starboard".

Riis

Thanks. I will try that.
 
I could see there being some challenges with that pairing.

There's a whole lot of midrange happening in that combination, which would only be accentuated by that particular cabinet. If the sound you're hearing is nasally, "brittle" and clacky it would not surprise me.

I would start by rolling off the High contour and disengaging the graphic EQ altogether. I would also use very little if any of the solid state Pre and run your Tube pre high (at least 6 or 7) to try and warm things up a bit.

And be sure you're running into the Active input jack cause Stingrays can put out a lot of signal.
 
Check cables for what? Usually they either work or they don't.

Unless it's a cable that has an electrostatic shield, that shield was not removed from the hot conductor, and it has been allowed to come into contact with the hot tab of the plug. I've seen it on several cables, including one that wasn't cheap (and could not be dismantled - I just tossed it in the trash).
 

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