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Strap locks, who’s using what brands?
- Thread starter Stewie
- Start date
D
I have dunlops on almost all my basses… no problems other than a couple times they weren’t properly seated but that was my fault….What failed on yours?
I’ve used Schallers for years on dozens of basses without any problems. Never felt the need to try others.
The part you pull to release the strap came unscrewed from the mechanism, so it wouldn’t release. I can’t remember what I did to get it off. Couldn’t think of a way to tighten the screw firmly, I guess I could just loktite the threads. The Dunlops will accept a plain strap as well as their own locks.
I’ve been using the Fender rubber washers, which work well but are easy to lose
I confused by the quotes not matching the OP.
Dunlops here as well. The countersunk ones came on my Fodera and I like those best. I wanted to stick with the same brand so I can swap straps easily. I drilled my J for those, a little nerve-racking, but they worked out great. I’ve used the surface-mounted replacements on some other basses, an easy swap-out from standard strap buttons.
Edit? I’m guessing OP originally posted Dunlop and meant Schaller. I’ve never used Schaller, but there’s nothing that you pull to release the Dunlops, it’s a pushbutton mechanism.
Dunlops basically forever. Never had a problem. I dropped a drop of light oil in a set that I’ve had over 30 years, once. May try the recessed Dunlop soon.
But I have a rosewood neck P that is a little neck heavy. I got a set of the new Fender branded locks and I installed the front only. It’s extended the strap almost 3/4” in front of the normal pin position and it fixed the dive! Yay me. And the little F logo is semi cool too.
But I have a rosewood neck P that is a little neck heavy. I got a set of the new Fender branded locks and I installed the front only. It’s extended the strap almost 3/4” in front of the normal pin position and it fixed the dive! Yay me. And the little F logo is semi cool too.
Thought I had Dunlops, went and checked, they are Schaller. First post beat me to the edit
Going to order a couple sets of Dunlops. Brass colored ones from Sweetwater are less than $12 right now. Talk me into paying more for chromies
i've always only used the schaller-style (a habit), but i've tried different sources other than schaller (grover, knock-offs). i don't remember any specific fails with them, but i know that i've replaced them (the buttons and/or the locks) when they appeared too worn. some of the knock-offs are crap. real schallers last for years, IME.
i'd try another system if i didn't have to think about replacing all the parts on 7 axes and 4-5 straps. another TBer suggested some dunlops for a specific use once. i got them, but i ended up getting some resolution for the issue, so i never used them: no experience.
I prefer Loxx. Easy and secure attachment, holds strap close to the instrument body. Harder to find than other brands. My second choice is Dunlop, but they are not as smooth to attach and position at a distance from the bass body.
Schallers: my briar patch — the old-world ones — never had any issues. Never lost out. I still use the first set I laid my hands on, circa 1988. There is a knack to it but once you get used to their idiosyncrasies, you can't go wrong.
They may not be the best but, when they unfailingly do the job, as they do, why deviate? I do have numerous other ways to go. Some are still untried. Only the schaller knock-offs were a waste of time. The real McCoys come out on top.
Schallers on my basses, Dunlops on my guitars. No particular reason for the difference; those were just the readily available options when I bought the instruments. They both work well enough, so I stuck with what was there.
I will say, however, that I did replace the original Schallers on my basses with the newer version of the Schaller S-Loks, which for my money are noticeably better than the older ones. I had two (occasional) modest beefs with the old ones. One was that sometimes the nut holding the strap assembly to the strap would come unscrewed a bit and flop around. The other was that sometimes the knob on the bass horn could get loose if the strap went on and off a lot; everything still worked, but it was annoying. The new version seems to have fixed both of these issues.
I will say, however, that I did replace the original Schallers on my basses with the newer version of the Schaller S-Loks, which for my money are noticeably better than the older ones. I had two (occasional) modest beefs with the old ones. One was that sometimes the nut holding the strap assembly to the strap would come unscrewed a bit and flop around. The other was that sometimes the knob on the bass horn could get loose if the strap went on and off a lot; everything still worked, but it was annoying. The new version seems to have fixed both of these issues.
I used Schallers for 40 years without fail.
Every bass I've ever owned. First thing I do is install Schallers
Every bass I've ever owned. First thing I do is install Schallers
I've went from Dunlops to Schaller S-Locks. both have advantages and both are a top product, relied on by pros.
Dunlops are lighter and rotate better. Downside is the grease you need to apply to your locks, you need to be careful not to get it all over your gig bag and folded strap. I stopped using Dunlops, when they didn't lock several times for me, the work-around is to assure locking by trying to pull the lock out after plugging.
Schallers are heavy, bulky, but more secure for me. also they come in plenty of colors (while Dunlop provides a chrome finish, but not nickel, for example). another downside is that the S-Locks buttons come with in-built screws, and they're thick, so no easy way back from Schallers to Dunlops. if there was -- I might try Dunlops again.
I'd say that both systems require periodic maintenance to keep them working. you need to lubricate Dunlops in a while and assure all pins are working (one not working is a sign that you need to replace the lock, as second will stop -- and the lock won't work) and you need to verify that Schallers didn't rotate or screw out. Schaller says, their locks don't need lubrication, but sometimes I put some in, so they're smoother.
Dunlops are lighter and rotate better. Downside is the grease you need to apply to your locks, you need to be careful not to get it all over your gig bag and folded strap. I stopped using Dunlops, when they didn't lock several times for me, the work-around is to assure locking by trying to pull the lock out after plugging.
Schallers are heavy, bulky, but more secure for me. also they come in plenty of colors (while Dunlop provides a chrome finish, but not nickel, for example). another downside is that the S-Locks buttons come with in-built screws, and they're thick, so no easy way back from Schallers to Dunlops. if there was -- I might try Dunlops again.
I'd say that both systems require periodic maintenance to keep them working. you need to lubricate Dunlops in a while and assure all pins are working (one not working is a sign that you need to replace the lock, as second will stop -- and the lock won't work) and you need to verify that Schallers didn't rotate or screw out. Schaller says, their locks don't need lubrication, but sometimes I put some in, so they're smoother.
D
Makes sense now… i see you edited your original post.
I tried schallers a couple times, one fell apart like yours, the other one squeaked when i moved around, kinda annoying really, although obviously not noticeable when amplified it still was silly.
I used Schallers for decades. About 5 years ago, I switched to silicon washers and haven't looked back.
