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Straplocks for a Fernandes RB-80? Best solution?

Hello all,

I’m trying to figure out exactly what strap lock system I should use on my Fernandes Rick clone.

It came with the vintage Rick-styled knurled strap nuts/repurposed bridge mute adjusters, which I don’t like very much—I worry about the strap failing and letting the bass drop down because they’re so small.

I know new Ricks come with Schaller pins—should I get those? I feel like that may be the least destructive route.

But, if there is a better option out there, feel free to suggest it. I’ve no issue with a dowel and redrill if my bass will be secure.

Thanks!
 
From what I’ve used there are basically 2 styles. The Dunlap insertion pin and the Schaller slide from the side.
It’s all really what you prefer. I find the Dunlap style is faster to connect but doesn’t feel as solid a connection, and the Schaller can be a little temperamental connecting but feels like a more solid connection.
I use the Schaller myself.
 
Dunlop dual design pins, Dunlop on the strap.
Dual Design pins allow for using a strap without the lock installed. A few straps, across all basses. Leave wireless unit attached when switching guitars onstage.
First thing I install on any solid body electric guitar or bass.

Used Schaller for a long time.
2 issues: squeaky, and the nut holding the strap mechanism works loose.
 
If it is truly using the Ric strap buttons (bridge mute screws), and the holes are threaded that way, then you can order the Ric specific Schaller strap buttons that will screw into the threaded portion in the bass. If you don't care whether or not those stay like that, then any strap locks will work, but you will never be able to go back to the stock strap buttons if you decide to do that down the road.
 
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"Used Schaller for a long time. 2 issues: squeaky, and the nut holding the strap mechanism works loose."
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I like these from Dunlop.


If your strap button is like the actual Rickenbacker ones the shaft may be a lot bigger than a strap button screw and the hole will need to be doweled for a different system to work.
 
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Schallers are great. Their recently new models (S-Locks, made instead of old like for seven years) don't squeak and unscrew as this was the shortcomings from the previous model back from 80-s.

I've used Dunlops, but I liked the new Schallers better.
 
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If it is truly using the Ric strap buttons (bridge mute screws), and the holes are threaded that way, then you can order the Ric specific Schaller strap buttons that will screw into the threaded portion in the bass. If you don't care whether or not those stay like that, then any strap locks will work, but you will never be able to go back to the stock strap buttons if you decide to do that down the road.

Thank you!

I realize I will have to dowel the holes for a different system, so I’m trying to find a drop-in solution first before going the mod route.

Do you know if the Rick specific schallers are the old style or the newer S-Lock style?
 
Thank you!

I realize I will have to dowel the holes for a different system, so I’m trying to find a drop-in solution first before going the mod route.

Do you know if the Rick specific schallers are the old style or the newer S-Lock style?

They are the S-Lock. I ordered a set of buttons from Ric's web store to go in my '74 4001 I bought a few years ago. They were just the buttons, and I had to buy a regular set of S-Locks so that I'd have something to put on the strap to connect to them.
 
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They are the S-Lock. I ordered a set of buttons from Ric's web store to go in my '74 4001 I bought a few years ago. They were just the buttons, and I had to buy a regular set of S-Locks so that I'd have something to put on the strap to connect to them.

Schaller also sells old-style buttons (with no screw embedded), I have a couple that I've used on my Ovation (strap buttons there hold on bolts instead of screws).

old buttons are compatible with new locks, but Schaller advices not to use old locks with new buttons.
Schaller tho suggests the new buttons will have better performance, so if using original screws is not a must, it's the way to go.
 
"Used Schaller for a long time. 2 issues: squeaky, and the nut holding the strap mechanism works loose."View attachment 7120327View attachment 7120326
That is Band-Aid fix for a flaw. The flaw still exists.
I employed the “fix” myself, then I got a vintage Warwick with the recessed pins, that required the use of the Dunlops, and decided to make the switch.

In the many years of use since I switched to the Dunlop system: no action or maintenance has been needed to provide reliable service.
 
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I've been a Dunlop guy for years, BUT....

I recently acquired a new fiver with Schaller pins and strap-ends. These are NOT the same "hangers" I remember from years ago. The large knurled retainer nut has a pass-thru channel channel which accommodates the long arm of a hex key or similar so you can really torque down the nut with resulting compression / deformation of the underlying material (Mono Betty nylon, leather, etc.)....it ain't moving. In addition, there's a lock-down grub screw for that extra element of security. In my case, I was over-zealous with an ever-so-slight cupping of the end tab. No need for thread-locker or periodic re-tightening.

Riis