doesn't that defeat the purpose of buying straploks, you might as well use those rubber washers from beer bottles..
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Straplocks Loosening; A Cure?
- Thread starter rapturebass
- Start date
doesn't that defeat the purpose of buying straploks, you might as well use those rubber washers from beer bottles..
Matchsticks. Really.
When first putting straplocks on, stick a matchstick or a toothpick down the screw hole.
When first putting straplocks on, stick a matchstick or a toothpick down the screw hole.
- Aug 25, 2007
- 835
- 6
- Disclosures
- I manufacture for several companies including but not limited to: Bridge City Sound, Catalinbread, more.
no, because that's a weak glue joint, due to lack of clamping pressure! it also means the screw cuts its threads into brittle dried glue.
slather the toothpicks with the wood glue, stuff them in, then crank the screw in right away. use enough sticks for it to be tight, and enough wood glue for it to squeeze out.
that way, it all dries nice and clamped up, and it dries already in the shape of the threads.
slather the toothpicks with the wood glue, stuff them in, then crank the screw in right away. use enough sticks for it to be tight, and enough wood glue for it to squeeze out.
that way, it all dries nice and clamped up, and it dries already in the shape of the threads.
I always go the toothpick way. 
You're fixing something that will be under a felt washer and the button per se, so you must make a real big mess to notice it...
I don't see why people are making such a fuss about toothpick and glue, it is a great solution (and you don't have to drill a larger hole to glue in a dowel, for instance).
And what's up with that "ghetto" statement? Sounds just wrong...
PS: I'd glue in a toothpick even if my bass was a $15,000 Fodera.
You're fixing something that will be under a felt washer and the button per se, so you must make a real big mess to notice it...
I don't see why people are making such a fuss about toothpick and glue, it is a great solution (and you don't have to drill a larger hole to glue in a dowel, for instance).
And what's up with that "ghetto" statement? Sounds just wrong...
PS: I'd glue in a toothpick even if my bass was a $15,000 Fodera.
I have to say, although I agree that jamming stuff down the screw hole will make the joint tighter, they still do not correct the (fatally) flawed geometry. Even with the screw frozen in place, the base of the buttons tweak the surface they're bolted to (your bass) a TON more than a plain strap on a plain button. When they start rocking around against the (soft, by comparison) body, it starts an endless, self-perpetuating death wobble, causing this:
Don't get me wrong, I love my Dunlops and think they're the best - the mechanisms have NEVER failed on me ever, and I throw my bass around A LOT during shows. So, here's what I did for a fix. Yes, it's a commitment, since you have a much larger hole in the body, but I haven't regretted doing this at all.
Turn the lip off of the base. I have a full machine shop (lathe)(YMMV). Or, if you have a dremel or even a belt sander which you can prop up, just grind them off. Okay, you don't REALLY need to do this, but it will be better if you can. Then, drill the screw hole deeper, drill a counterbore for the "body" and then countersink the hole until they sit flush.
This way, the load is now placed on the counterbore AND the moment about the screw (fancy word for "leverage") is greatly reduced / nil. I've got 2 years worth of gigs on this configuration with zero trouble / loosening.
HTH.
Don't get me wrong, I love my Dunlops and think they're the best - the mechanisms have NEVER failed on me ever, and I throw my bass around A LOT during shows. So, here's what I did for a fix. Yes, it's a commitment, since you have a much larger hole in the body, but I haven't regretted doing this at all.
Turn the lip off of the base. I have a full machine shop (lathe)(YMMV). Or, if you have a dremel or even a belt sander which you can prop up, just grind them off. Okay, you don't REALLY need to do this, but it will be better if you can. Then, drill the screw hole deeper, drill a counterbore for the "body" and then countersink the hole until they sit flush.
This way, the load is now placed on the counterbore AND the moment about the screw (fancy word for "leverage") is greatly reduced / nil. I've got 2 years worth of gigs on this configuration with zero trouble / loosening.
HTH.
Their thinner? huh, I have used the dunlops for years and the screw that comes with them is slightly thicker than any of the stock screws on any bass I ever installed them on...
Just kinda thinking out loud, not trying to make a pissing match out of it...
As to the OP's issue, I have always gone to a good builders grade hardware store and purchased slightly thicker and slightly longer stainless screws to remedy the issue. I suppose it is the flip side of the coin to any of the toothpick or fill and re-drill solutions, but it is basically a 1 step fix....
I have to say, although I agree that jamming stuff down the screw hole will make the joint tighter, they still do not correct the (fatally) flawed geometry. Even with the screw frozen in place, the base of the buttons tweak the surface they're bolted to (your bass) a TON more than a plain strap on a plain button. When they start rocking around against the (soft, by comparison) body, it starts an endless, self-perpetuating death wobble, causing this:
Don't get me wrong, I love my Dunlops and think they're the best - the mechanisms have NEVER failed on me ever, and I throw my bass around A LOT during shows. So, here's what I did for a fix. Yes, it's a commitment, since you have a much larger hole in the body, but I haven't regretted doing this at all.
Turn the lip off of the base. I have a full machine shop (lathe)(YMMV). Or, if you have a dremel or even a belt sander which you can prop up, just grind them off. Okay, you don't REALLY need to do this, but it will be better if you can. Then, drill the screw hole deeper, drill a counterbore for the "body" and then countersink the hole until they sit flush.
This way, the load is now placed on the counterbore AND the moment about the screw (fancy word for "leverage") is greatly reduced / nil. I've got 2 years worth of gigs on this configuration with zero trouble / loosening.
HTH.
That's brilliant!
yes, very industrious, and mechanically a good idea (like you said, there's now no leverage at the bottom of the button to bend the screw). in fact, it's such a good idea you can just buy them that way
the only drawback to the flush-mounts is that you'd better not forget your strap! you wouldn't even be able to borrow someone else's, and would have to do the gig sitting down
the only drawback to the flush-mounts is that you'd better not forget your strap! you wouldn't even be able to borrow someone else's, and would have to do the gig sitting down
I apply a drop of TriFlow (or any teflon lube) on the mechanism and it never seizes up in the insert. Never squeaks, never comes undone.
I hate Schaller straplocks, but if you like them, apply the same drop or two on the button as well as the cup (on the strap) and it will be a LOT LESS LIKELY to come loose.
This should be done at the time of straplock install and periodically re-lubed every few years.
Also, the same oil is great on bridge screws, in binding tuners, at the string/saddle or string/nut contact point. Little goes a long way, but I do this on all my basses. I'm a bike mechanic and lube is awesome to fix/prevent a lot of issues.
I hate Schaller straplocks, but if you like them, apply the same drop or two on the button as well as the cup (on the strap) and it will be a LOT LESS LIKELY to come loose.
This should be done at the time of straplock install and periodically re-lubed every few years.
Also, the same oil is great on bridge screws, in binding tuners, at the string/saddle or string/nut contact point. Little goes a long way, but I do this on all my basses. I'm a bike mechanic and lube is awesome to fix/prevent a lot of issues.
+1
i'll see old schaller locks where the button has actually worn almost through from the friction of the lock cup grinding against it for years.
while you're applying liquids to your schaller locks, be sure to run a bit of loctite under the nut that holds the strap before screwing it onto the lock mechanism, or it will become undone.
