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Straplocks Loosening; A Cure?
- Thread starter rapturebass
- Start date
Yeah, people are making this out to be more than it really is - happens every couple of weeks here...
- georgestrings
another TB'r recommended JB weld to me a while back on a bass that was very problematic. toothpicks didn't work, glue didn't work but the JB seems to hold just nicely . . . though I imagine if I ever want to take the lock out I'm, well, screwed 
The best solution I've used is to dip the screws in Liquid Nails Small Projects and Repairs Adhesive before screwing them in.
I have no doubt that would work, but you'll have a very difficult time getting it back out, if ever necessary...
IME, the toothpick/woodglue method provides the best compromise between keeping things tight, yet still being somewhat removeable after the fact - merely repeat as necessary...
Regarding "cobbing" things - if done properly, this repair is undetectable - even on the most expensive instruments... I like round toothpicks, because they are generally made out of harder wood than flats - although both will work...
- georgestrings
if you are drilling into the horn and side of the body, isn't that already end-grain anyway????
though I imagine if I ever want to take the lock out I'm, well, screwed
Yep. Mine are a permanent part of the bass.
Schaller Straplock screws are smaller than the stock Fender screws. Stock Fender screws will not fit inside stock Schaller strap buttons.
Take the strap button, a 5/32" drill bit, and run it through the strap button. Walla, the stock Fender screw now goes into the strap button and you can use the stock screws for a tight stock fit.
I always put a dab of BLUE Loctite thread locker in the screw hole and have had absolutely no problems with the screw coming loose. Tried the toothpicks and parts of paper clips into the holes and they still came loose.
No more loose screws with the above fix and if you need to remove the buttons the screws are easy to take out. The BLUE loctite works well but doesn't put a weld type of hold on the screw like the red might.
Try it.
Take the strap button, a 5/32" drill bit, and run it through the strap button. Walla, the stock Fender screw now goes into the strap button and you can use the stock screws for a tight stock fit.
I always put a dab of BLUE Loctite thread locker in the screw hole and have had absolutely no problems with the screw coming loose. Tried the toothpicks and parts of paper clips into the holes and they still came loose.
No more loose screws with the above fix and if you need to remove the buttons the screws are easy to take out. The BLUE loctite works well but doesn't put a weld type of hold on the screw like the red might.
Try it.
Rickett Customs
Commercial User
In a nutshell, but not all grains are oriented the same (depending on the builder and how the wood was laid out). But then again it all depends of what species it is as well. On a horn you're also talking about a larger area of wood, on a dowel it is a much smaller area. Availability of dowels in a hardware store will most likely be of poplar and oak..... End grain on a smaller piece is (like a dowel) won't hold up as well as a larger section of wood, once a screw is inserted.
Case in point, run a screw into the end grain on a large slab, you'll run less of a chance of it splitting apart. Do the same to a dowel 1/2" or smaller.
Also, I'm not saying it won't work.
I use about 3 or 4 toothpicks, and liquid nails, i tap in the toothpicks, trim them off, coat them in some liquid nails, put them in the hole, then screw the strap lock in. i do it while the glue is wet because i feel it gives it more grab, maybe im wrong idk. then i let it sit for a day-a day and a half
I have put the Dunlops on my instruments, and like the design better than what I've seen from the others. The screws that came with the Dunlops were slightly thicker than the screws holding the old strap buttons on, but not amazingly bigger. So I was able to just soap up the new screw and put it into the same hole that was used for the previous screw, which gave it a really solid hold.
I check them every couple times I play, and have had no movement at all on them, so I think they're pretty well in there.
I check them every couple times I play, and have had no movement at all on them, so I think they're pretty well in there.
I would prefer to not put any tooth picks or glue or anything in my bass because i saved up for almost three years (I'm 14) and i don't wanna be messing with my new bass in such a manner, though the Dunlop strap locks seem pretty solid, the mechanism seems a lot more heavy duty. If i plan to use Dunlop locks to remedy the situation, should i use Original or Dual Design? What are the pros/cons of each? Thankyou everyone for the ideas and thoughts you've contributed.
I dipped the screw in wood glue and threaded it in. Not had an issue yet.
On the strap side, I used loctite blue. No issues there either.
The fellow who used the JB Weld will NEVER have an problem. I've glued a car door handle on with that stuff and it never failed in over two years of daily use closing an SUV door. Fantastic stuff. Just don't let it dry where you don't want it. It ain't coming off!
On the strap side, I used loctite blue. No issues there either.
The fellow who used the JB Weld will NEVER have an problem. I've glued a car door handle on with that stuff and it never failed in over two years of daily use closing an SUV door. Fantastic stuff. Just don't let it dry where you don't want it. It ain't coming off!
That may have been me.another TB'r recommended JB weld to me a while back on a bass that was very problematic. toothpicks didn't work, glue didn't work but the JB seems to hold just nicely . . . though I imagine if I ever want to take the lock out I'm, well, screwed
They do NOT come out BUT removing them(& the JB Weld) would involve careful drilling directly into the endpin/button. This would leave a larger hole which the dowel pin method could fix should one have to do this. Yes, I thought about it before JBW was used.
PS: if/when a bass gets sold by me(eBay, TB, or CL), the ad specifically states that JB Weld was used and two of those "leftover" strap hardware sets get tossed into the deal.
I decided on JB Weld after catching a falling 1964 Gibson T-Bird one night when the screw worked loose and came out...
I said "Never again".
right answer #1: modify the bigger screw to go in the new button
right answer #2: wooden toothpicks, with lots of wood glue, and crank in the screw right away.
if glue doesn't squeeze out, you didn't use enough glue.
if the screw doesn't tighten up firm, you didn't use enough toothpicks.
done right it will be stronger than before, with no JB weld weirdness in there.
right answer #2: wooden toothpicks, with lots of wood glue, and crank in the screw right away.
if glue doesn't squeeze out, you didn't use enough glue.
if the screw doesn't tighten up firm, you didn't use enough toothpicks.
done right it will be stronger than before, with no JB weld weirdness in there.
Gotta say, since toothpicks are usually made from hickory, they are extremely strong and cheap. Excellent for this kind of repair. Use wood glue as welll.
I just had this problem with my new P bass too, had it with my dunlops into an Ibanez' body also. ended up using glue and toothpick, but it worked it's way loose slightly, then I decided to start using my straplocks differently, I don't like the way most strap locks hang on the edge/ or off the edge of the end pin, also if you have to use a back-up strap that doesn't have straplocks installed you go with out... unless...
You 1 un-install the locks from your strap, 2 put your strap on your bass normally, 3 put the straplock on the endpin OVER your strap. This is how I run my setup now. The strap will never come off, the endpin doesn't loosen because the tension of the strap is close to the body/ not the end of the pin and it's not turning the endpin. If a buddy opening for me needs to borrow my strap it doesn't have straplocks installed, and if I break my strap and have to use a backup I don't need to fuss with changing out straplocks just pop em off ,change straps and pop back on.
You 1 un-install the locks from your strap, 2 put your strap on your bass normally, 3 put the straplock on the endpin OVER your strap. This is how I run my setup now. The strap will never come off, the endpin doesn't loosen because the tension of the strap is close to the body/ not the end of the pin and it's not turning the endpin. If a buddy opening for me needs to borrow my strap it doesn't have straplocks installed, and if I break my strap and have to use a backup I don't need to fuss with changing out straplocks just pop em off ,change straps and pop back on.
