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String tryout.

String gauge will make a greater difference to feel and flexibility than core and construction.

This is completely false.

One of the factors that can affect the way a set of strings FEEL is the "core to wrap ratio". Comparing the same gauges, a thicker core would feel stiffer. Also, the core TYPE has more bearing on the stiffness/flexibility than the overall gauge.

For example...

GHS Boomers and Dunlop Super Bright Nickels are both "NPS roundwound on a hex core", but they don't even feel close in terms of stiffness/flexibility due to the difference in the core thickness.

DR Sunbeams and DR Nickel Lo-Riders are both NPS roundwound but they don't feel the same even when comparing the same gauges due to the difference in the core type, ie round core vs. hex core.
 
And it is… (after thirty years of experimentation, I'd be interested to hear where you ended up!)

My strings of choice:

For my modded LTD HTB-600 4-string, which I tune DGCF and use the Hipshot Xtender to drop it to CGCF, I use D'Addario balanced tension XLs gauged 50-120.

For my Japanese-made Ibanez Soundgear 4-string, which I tune EADG and use a Hipshot Xtender to drop it to DADG, I use D'Addario balanced tension XLs gauged 45-107.

I like these D'Addarios. They're reliable, affordable, long lasting, feel good, sound good... total package for me. I've tried so many strings in various gauges, materials, windings (e.g. round, flat, pressure), cores (hex, round), budget brands, boutique brands, big name, no name, domestic brands, import brands, ones TBers hail as the second coming, ones TBers say are the worst ever.... I haven't plucked every single string out there, but I've plucked a LOT.

You know, sometimes the bass chooses the string and my basses love these D'Addarios.
 
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This is completely false.

One of the factors that can affect the way a set of strings FEEL is the "core to wrap ratio". Comparing the same gauges, a thicker core would feel stiffer. Also, the core TYPE has more bearing on the stiffness/flexibility than the overall gauge.

For example...

GHS Boomers and Dunlop Super Bright Nickels are both "NPS roundwound on a hex core", but they don't even feel close in terms of stiffness/flexibility due to the difference in the core thickness.

DR Sunbeams and DR Nickel Lo-Riders are both NPS roundwound but they don't feel the same even when comparing the same gauges due to the difference in the core type, ie round core vs. hex core.

regarding the core to wrap ratio, DR used to make Jonas Hellborg signature strings that each had a single layer of wrap wire, not sure if the current ones are the same, but I've always thought that was an interesting concept but never got around to trying them.
 
This is completely false.

One of the factors that can affect the way a set of strings FEEL is the "core to wrap ratio". Comparing the same gauges, a thicker core would feel stiffer. Also, the core TYPE has more bearing on the stiffness/flexibility than the overall gauge.

For example...

GHS Boomers and Dunlop Super Bright Nickels are both "NPS roundwound on a hex core", but they don't even feel close in terms of stiffness/flexibility due to the difference in the core thickness.

DR Sunbeams and DR Nickel Lo-Riders are both NPS roundwound but they don't feel the same even when comparing the same gauges due to the difference in the core type, ie round core vs. hex core.

The difference in tension between light and medium gauge bass strings (of the same type) is anywhere from 17% to 45%, depending on the string, the manufacturer, and the specific gauges in the set. (Non-balanced tension string sets make no sense o_O)

In contrast, the difference in tension between strings of the same gauge, but different construction, is under 5% for any comparison of NPS rounds I can find. (This includes round vs. hex core and D'Addario vs. GHS, and is likely very close to, if not within, the margin of error for measurement techniques used at different times across different jigs.)

If you want to argue that a subjective difference in perceived stiffness can overwhelm a measurable 17%-45% difference in measured tension (which most definitely affects perceived stiffness), go ahead. I even agree with you, and I said so originally, if you're talking about the difference between rounds, half-rounds, flats, and tapes.

But my experience disagrees -- and I believe the facts back me up here -- that differences in core-to-wrap ratio and winding density can overwhelm up to a 45% measured difference. Core-to-wrap ratio affects the density of the string, which affects its tension when strung to the same note...but, as it turns out, there's not a lot of wiggle room to dramatically change the core to wrap ratio, and the end result is that most manufacturers remain in a similar range, as demonstrated by tension remaining within the margin of error. (Amongst the many reasons for this are that too much core results in a string that doesn't like to bend over the bridge or nut and produces audible inharmonicity, which is already an easily audible problem with string gauges > .100, and too little core simply breaks.)

At the end of the day, you're making a subjective argument, so it's impossible to disprove, and I'm not going to hang onto it beyond what I've already said here. But as someone who's been making my own balanced tension string sets out of singles for over twenty years, I have a long history of experimenting with string gauges and construction, and I stand by my statement that string gauge makes a greater difference to feel than different construction at the same gauge.

Possible exception: I have not tried the new Dogal Hellborg signature strings, which (unlike any other string I'm aware of) use a woven central core instead of a plain steel round or hex core, and are apparently extremely flexible for their weight. They seem to be unavailable to the public as yet, but I'd like to try a set!

(It's possible to measure perceived stiffness! One would construct a jig that measures the force required to displace a string a fixed amount, at a fixed place along its length. But I'm unaware of anyone having done this.)
 
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Strings are necessarily the most important part of any string instrument - it's the part you touch to make the sounds. That sounds obvious, but i certainly didn't understand it for a long time.

So, yes, definitely experiment with strings, and learn to do your own setups. You will get a lot out of trying different strings, more than changing out any other piece of kit.
 
The difference in tension between light and medium gauge bass strings (of the same type) is anywhere from 17% to 45%, depending on the string, the manufacturer, and the specific gauges in the set. (Non-balanced tension string sets make no sense o_O)

In contrast, the difference in tension between strings of the same gauge, but different construction, is under 5% for any comparison of NPS rounds I can find. (This includes round vs. hex core and D'Addario vs. GHS, and is likely very close to, if not within, the margin of error for measurement techniques used at different times across different jigs.)

If you want to argue that a subjective difference in perceived stiffness can overwhelm a measurable 17%-45% difference in measured tension (which most definitely affects perceived stiffness), go ahead. I even agree with you, and I said so originally, if you're talking about the difference between rounds, half-rounds, flats, and tapes.

But my experience disagrees -- and I believe the facts back me up here -- that differences in core-to-wrap ratio and winding density can overwhelm up to a 45% measured difference. Core-to-wrap ratio affects the density of the string, which affects its tension when strung to the same note...but, as it turns out, there's not a lot of wiggle room to dramatically change the core to wrap ratio, and the end result is that most manufacturers remain in a similar range, as demonstrated by tension remaining within the margin of error. (Amongst the many reasons for this are that too much core results in a string that doesn't like to bend over the bridge or nut and produces audible inharmonicity, which is already an easily audible problem with string gauges > .100, and too little core simply breaks.)

At the end of the day, you're making a subjective argument, so it's impossible to disprove, and I'm not going to hang onto it beyond what I've already said here. But as someone who's been making my own balanced tension string sets out of singles for over twenty years, I have a long history of experimenting with string gauges and construction, and I stand by my statement that string gauge makes a greater difference to feel than different construction at the same gauge.

Possible exception: I have not tried the new Dogal Hellborg signature strings, which (unlike any other string I'm aware of) use a woven central core instead of a plain steel round or hex core, and are apparently extremely flexible for their weight. They seem to be unavailable to the public as yet, but I'd like to try a set!

(It's possible to measure perceived stiffness! One would construct a jig that measures the force required to displace a string a fixed amount, at a fixed place along its length. But I'm unaware of anyone having done this.)

The "woven" core sounds like what double bass string makers call "rope" core, which is indeed very flexible
 
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Yeah, that's the deal with TI Jazz Flats. They are supposed to be constructed in the same way as TI's extremely popular Spirocore line of rope-core DB string.
...And yet they're not.
Unlike their Spirocores, Thomastik-Infeld Jazz Flats have solid round cores, not stranded, and their flat ribbon winding is made of nickel, not chrome steel. They do have a silk inlay around the core like orchestral strings, and they are very flexible.

I would very much like to try the new Dogal Hellborg flatwounds, whenever they come out, but I expect them to cost more than I do in my Sunday dress.
 
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Hello Bassists! Florens here. I have a question i want to ask.

ive been using 45-105 strings since the first day of playing bass (2 years ago). I want to try out some different string gauges. So the question is: is there a chance that for example a lighter set of bass strings make me play more comfortable?

and what are some things that can happen with my playing with different string gauges?

thanks,
Cheers!
I always use the smallest gauge I can get away with using the current nut. YMMV. I decided a long time ago it was either the default Fender gauge or the nearest GHS Boomers I could get a hold of, plus, the Ernie Balls worked very well also. I was cheap. They sounded fine. I never had a band leader or audience member question the set of strings I used.