String tryout.

[JeezyMcNuggles]

Hello Bassists! Florens here. I have a question i want to ask.

ive been using 45-105 strings since the first day of playing bass (2 years ago). I want to try out some different string gauges. So the question is: is there a chance that for example a lighter set of bass strings make me play more comfortable?

and what are some things that can happen with my playing with different string gauges?

thanks,
Cheers!

More or less lows. Stiffer feel. A set up will be required because of more or less tension on the neck.

I play .055 - 105 strings. Medium Guage. It's what I like.

 

[Father Gino]

Make sure you know for sure that your bass is set up as well as it can be before you decide if the strings are really the problem.
But yes, there are a million different strings out there that you might or might not like better. There's no way I could live long enough to try them all. For me anyway, it's a long and arduous process trying different strings. I seldom like brand new strings, so I have to let them die down a bit and by the time they do, I can't remember what the old ones really sounded like. Doesn't stop me from trying different strings anyway.

 

[Floorbassist]

Thanks

 

[littlebun]

Hello Bassists! Florens here. I have a question i want to ask.

ive been using 45-105 strings since the first day of playing bass (2 years ago). I want to try out some different string gauges. So the question is: is there a chance that for example a lighter set of bass strings make me play more comfortable?

and what are some things that can happen with my playing with different string gauges?

thanks,
Cheers!

Light gauge is easier to get around on. I can't use light gauge because of buzzing. If you play strongly you might have problems with buzzing and will need to add neck relief via the truss rod and raise your string action height.

 

[40Hz]

I was surprised to discover lighter flats (100s) seem to have more punch that a heavier set. I think it may have something to do with how the lesser mass and inertia of a lighter gauge string equates to a larger string displacement (which is what the pickup actually senses and works with) on the initial attack - and that, in turn, translates out to more snap and punch.

At any rate, regardless of what is actually going on, I've found I now tend to prefer lighter gauge flats to heavier gauge sets. YMMV.

 

[Dincrest]

And remember, not all 45-105 sets are created equal.

GHS Boomers use a thicker core wire than, say, D'Addario XLs so the Boomer 45-105 will feel stiffer than the XL 45-105.

Then you have DR strings... the Lo-Rider 45-105 will feel stiffer than the Hi-Beam 45-105 since the Lo-Riders have a hex core and the Hi-Beams have a round core.

And, as a general rule, stainless steel strings tend to feel stiffer than nickel plated.

It can be overwhelming the amount of string choices out there, but changing strings is the least expensive way to change things up. I've spent decades playing "string-pokemon" (gotta try 'em all). You name it, I've tried it... and it's only now (in my 40s having played since I was 15) that I found my go-to string.

 

[ShawnG]

And remember, not all 45-105 sets are created equal.

GHS Boomers use a thicker core wire than, say, D'Addario XLs so the Boomer 45-105 will feel stiffer than the XL 45-105.

Then you have DR strings... the Lo-Rider 45-105 will feel stiffer than the Hi-Beam 45-105 since the Lo-Riders have a hex core and the Hi-Beams have a round core.

And, as a general rule, stainless steel strings tend to feel stiffer than nickel plated.

It can be overwhelming the amount of string choices out there, but changing strings is the least expensive way to change things up. I've spent decades playing "string-pokemon" (gotta try 'em all). You name it, I've tried it... and it's only now (in my 40s having played since I was 15) that I found my go-to string.

And it is… (after thirty years of experimentation, I'd be interested to hear where you ended up!)

 

[Fender_Bender]

I switched to a lighter gauge of D' Addarios a few years back. They give the tension for each string on the package. They are definitely easier to press down and I don't remember any issues with less grunt. You might have to adjust your setup a bit if there's a noticeable difference in tension. You probably want to avoid flatwounds unless they are specifically low tension.

 

[dkelley]

I simply prefer the tone of lighter gauge strings... I don't always prefer the feel of lighter gauge strings, specially with 6 strings with a C string, but I do prefer the tone.

So it's not just about feel, but yes lighter gauge tend to be more flexible which is nice.

 

[JimmyM]

I tried to get used to 45-100 or 45-105, and I just can't hang with it anymore. All my basses are strung 40-100 or thereabouts, even the ones with flats. I have no interest in working hard to play the bass.

 

[spatters]

Rule of thumb:

String gauge will make a greater difference to feel and flexibility than core and construction.
Core and construction will make a greater difference to your sound than string gauge.
(Assuming you're comparing apples to apples, e.g. nickel-plated rounds to nickel-plated rounds. All bets are off if you're comparing NPS rounds to SS, flats, or tapes!)

That said, @Floorbassist , I feel that balanced tension string sets are a huge improvement. The tensions on standard sets are all over the place, and the thinner strings are much higher tension than the thicker strings! Since the force on your fingertip is proportional to pressure, this makes the thinner strings even harder to fret.

D'Addario and GHS offer balanced tension string sets, and they also have tension charts so you can see for yourself how crazy the tensions are on regular sets. For example:
http://www.ghsrep.net/uploads/2/2/2/5/22258814/ghs_bass_string_guide.pdf

I've had good experiences with customer service from both D'Addario and GHS, so I can recommend both.
Kalium and stringjoy offer balanced sets also (stringjoy will make any custom set you like), but I have no experience with them.

 

[Jackcrow]

I used 45-105 exclusively for a long time. Then actually went up to 50-110 for a bit (though I was tuning DGCF). In the last year or so I've been experimenting with light gauge strings and I have to say I really like it for most of my basses. You do have to be more conscious with your plucking or picking hand with lighter gauge strings though, something I think I would have struggled with in my earlier days of playing bass. You'll need to have a bit of a lighter touch with the lighter strings but that's a personal feel thing too.

 

[BassFalcon]

I've recently jumped to all tapewounds. I have come to prefer light gauge in general, but the tapes really do it for me. In the double bass world a professor urged me to get low tension strings. It was quite amazing. The higher tension strings were choking the bass, with the lower tension I experienced an increase in volume because the top could vibrate much more freely, I also felt it was an increase in the quality of tone as well. Because of that I also prefer light gauge/low tension strings on my electrics. I have no proof but I feel that they vibrate more freely and that results in a richer tone. I've played a lot of strings over the years, before e-commerce really took off you'd just have to get whatever the shop had in whatever town you were in, but this is where I ended up. As others have mentioned get a setup ruler and take measurements and write them down, you may need to make adjustments for varying tension, but if you know your measurements you like you can always "find home". Best of luck.

 

[sonojono]

Where's @michael_t in this thread when you need him?

 

[M0ses]

You don't have to work harder to play thicker strings. Their thickness means they disturb the magnetic field more than a light string, and they rebound with greater force from your plucking. I have always preferred heavier gauges because they enable a more fluid technique, have a bigger sound, and have punchier dynamics. I like the feel better and I like the tone better, by a lot. And I promise you I FLOAT over them, getting a big round sound with minimal effort.

I have now my first set of stringjoy nickelwounds. They're a small custom company out of Nashville. I bought from them because I like nickel round wounds, particularly I'm thinking of how much I like GHS boomers, but I wanted extra heavy gauges for my 5 string, while all the standard market offerings, topping out at .135, totally bumming me out. So far I am extremely happy with my stringjoy experience, I like how they sound and feel already, can't wait until they're properly broken in. They make you a set of strings in absolutely any gauges you like for EXTREMELY reasonable prices and a great warranty.

I just took OFF a set of DR black coated strings. I cannot express how much I hated them. Bought them because they were on the shelf at GC, had them on for about 3 months, I was so miserable with my disgusting, whimpy, clanky, thin tone so that I dreamed about new strings.

Anyway that's just the way I like it. It's definitely a good idea to experiment with strings if you are able, because they can make a HUGE difference in the way you feel as you play. Not so much for those listening, even the rest of the band band, who cannot tell the difference between my Harley Benton with stock strings and a vintage fender.

 

[BassoSaku]

This is a great thread and just at the right moment, thank you!

I have been using Rotosound Swing Bass 45-105 set for ages. I like the zing of the steel strings (but they eat the standard nickel frets faster) as opposed to the "standard" nickel wound strings.

When I started playing bass back in the '80s I used D'Addario XL's because they were probably the only reasonable strings available in our backwoods small town. I first used 40-100 sets but pretty soon went for 45-105 due to better string sound. The XL's I used were Nickel Wounds and I rememeber that my fingers were always black with residue nickel after rehearsals or gigs. I think I wasn't even actually aware that there were strings made of different materials and just got those that were readily available (and probably the cheapest ones) at that time.

Also, take into account that the steel strings are more magnetic. I don't know how much this is a factor in audible difference in sound but it would reasonable to assume that more magnetic mass would equal louder (or crispier) sound.

But now I've thought of finding another string brand, because the quality of Rotosounds have really taken a dive. I've had bad strings in about a third of the sets I've purchased in the last 2 years. Have you noticed this my fellow TB'ers or have I just struck a bad run?

 

[BassoSaku]

And one thing that I forgot to add was that you also need to take into account of the bass that you are putting the strings on. Assuming that we are using standard EADG tuning I find 45-105 to be near perfect for fingerstyle on basic long scale basses.

I have two basses that are exceptions to this "rule". Gibson Thunderbird and MM Bongo sound better with lighter strings, I have 40-100 sets on them and they are spot on for those basses.

 

[Gianni "Orlandez" Orlati]

Hello Bassists! Florens here. I have a question i want to ask.

ive been using 45-105 strings since the first day of playing bass (2 years ago). I want to try out some different string gauges. So the question is: is there a chance that for example a lighter set of bass strings make me play more comfortable?

and what are some things that can happen with my playing with different string gauges?

thanks,
Cheers!

Absolutely … I'm not that compatible with the 45-105 gauge when using flatwound strings.
My gauge of choice is 40-100 or 43-100 (the latter is the one chosen by TI for manufacturing the glorious JF344 model …)

 

[lbbc]

My wife knows I only use S.I.T. strings. She ordered 2 sets of light gauge (I usually use Mediums) from Amazon. They are easier to play...not sure how long they'll last...but they feel great!

 

[Fernando Costa]

It's all about aligning your needs with the string characteristics, and having to let go of some of them, of both... I like light strings, they vibrate more, have more bass using less force. If I want more tension I play closer to the bridge, if I want bass I play in the center.

I don't like zing, I like nickels, I use EXL220, the windings are thinner, like the GHS Pressure Wounds (these are ovals, the effect is the same), comfort. I like low action, but light strings with low tension don't help, again, near the bridge.

It's not easy, it took me a while to resolve and close the issue with the EXL220 BT, that's great, balanced tension. I use the same string for all my basses, they're cheap, the bright - if need be - persists for a month, then they settle for 6 months and die with some dignity. The (magnetic) volume is mainly in the string core, not the gauge, if you want volume use thicker core strings, or raise the pickups.