String Winding - Precision?

[mborok]

First time changing these strings...

I've read that the proper way is to wind wrapping downwards, not ovelapping, so that the final turn is closest to the headstock. But

- I see that the original strings were not always done that way; some strings have the final turn cross and are somewhere in the middle of the peg

- I've read that you want the string to be as straight as possible. Putting the final turn on the bottom will angle the string downwards. On one hand maybe that's what the factory (or store) was trying to avoid. On the other hand I've read that you SHOULD do this in order to get the best tone, especially on strings where there is no string tree button.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Mushroo]

Hi Mike, I recommend you read the Sticky thread titled "STRINGS FAQ + RULES: READ THIS FIRST BEFORE POSTING!!!" as it has an illustrated guide how to change strings. My advice is, do not assume they were done correctly at the factory or store. If you are in doubt then I recommend you ask your teacher; this is a fantastic example of how/why taking a few private lessons early on is super-valuable.

 

[mborok]

Yes, that's where I got this info:
[On the other hand I've read that you SHOULD do this in order to get the best tone, especially on strings where there is no string tree button.]
But I didn't know if this is gospel, or just one site's advice, due to the other concept (don't bend string, keep as straight as possible).

 

[experimental bassist]

You want the greatest string break angle possible on your E and A strings, so that means the last winding on the bottom.

The E string has a little room for error, but the A string you'll want the maximum number of windings on the peg to get the greatest break angle possible.

Obviously it's not so critical on the D ang G strings as the string tree determines the angle.

Your mileage may vary, but I find D'Addario XL roundwounds tend to be cut exactly the lengths I need, and I've only had to trim a particular set once or twice over the last few years (I change strings on my Precision every couple months or even more often if lots of gigs).

Also good advice, don't assume the factory or even just any one even if they work at a music store knows (or cares) the right way to restring a Precision.

It's pretty easy, but again pay special attention to getting the A string wound just right.

Good luck.

 

[mborok]

Thanks, that's what I needed to hear!

I bought Rotosound Swing Bass set, so I expect I may need to trim length. The Fender setup page says this, but I wasn't positive whether by the "fourth string" they mean the low E or the high G (I assume the former) or if these measurements are correct for a Precision. I was going to try to match the lengths of the original strings but, as you say, might not be a good idea to trust the factory or store setup.

"Standard keys. Pre-cut each string for the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the fourth string 3" (76 mm) past its tuning post and cut it (make sure to pull each string taut). Insert through the eyelet in the tuning key, allowing approximately 1/16" (1.6 mm) of the end to extend through the eyelet, then wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping. Pull the third string 3 1//2" (89 mm) past its tuning post, cut it, and repeat the winding procedure. Pull the second and first strings 3 1/2" (89 mm) past their tuning posts and cut and wind as noted."

 

[JustForSport]

More than 3" may help get a better angle over the nut-
You won't get as many wraps (and less angle) if it's trimmed too short.
More wraps is better (except for the '3 wrap' gang) as long as they don't overlap.
Once you get the correct length, use the old strings to use as a guide for new ones.
This applies to all basses (except headless) that I know of.
Someone will surely have a different opinion, tho.

 

[iiipopes]

I agree that the G, D, and A strings should be wrapped in an even layer, especially the A string, all the way down to the bushing, evenly with no binding, to provide stability of tuning and keep the strings with the proper "break angle" over the nut for proper sustain and intonation.

On the E string, if it is wound all the way down, the "break angle" can be too much for the thickness of the string in the nut slot. I try to have enough windings on the E string so that its "break angle" over the nut is the same as the A string, or maybe a little more, since the tension on a conventional E string is usually less than each string in the rest of the set, so it will seat properly, but not bind.