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strings for a Fender '51 Precision bass to avoid intonation problems with two-saddle bridge

Dec 22, 2013
1,820
1,750
Roma, Italia
hi everybody! I'm writing today because I'm in a momentary indecision about this particular bass.

mine is a Custom Shop 1951 NOS (pics attached) that I started using with its original strings, Fender 9050M (flatwound, 55-70-90-105), which I liked but didn't fell for them, and then switched to GHS Precision Flatwound in the same gauge, which I get is the original gauge of the Fender Mastersound strings when they were stock on Fender basses (but not on the first '51, who had rounds).

after one year and a half I've grown tired of those flats because, in some way, I think that they limit the sound of this particular instrument: the '51 is bright, more like a Jazz Bass with the neck pickup than a Precision with the split coil, and flats on this bass sound good but I prefer them on the split coil.

so I was thinking of restringing it with rounds, but the real question, as in the topic's title, is related to the intonation.

before acquiring this bass I've owned a japanese model from the 2000's and tried some different sets of strings, but encountered intonation problems due to the bridge that only has two saddles.
if the E string is good, the A string isn't.
if the D string is good, the G string isn't

by far, the Fender 7150M (pure nickel) and the 9050 both M and R (45-100, 55-105) gave me the most precise intonation, which doesn't mean perfect intonation on every string, but at least a non-noticeable +/- few cents on one of the string of the couple.

other sets gave me real issues, like 15/20cent out of tune on the frets. in particular on the E string, because in most sets it's the string that intonate the farther from the neck.

right now the GHS 55-105 flats intonate "good", and the lack of sustain from the E string and it's "thud" helps hiding the small intonation issue.

however, thinking about rounds, all the strings sustain, so I need a set that doesn't shag up the intonation without changing the bridge :D

what do you use on this particular style of instrument?
 

Attachments

  • Fender Precision CS1951 Limited Edition Nocaster Blonde NOS (1).jpeg
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  • Fender Precision CS1951 Limited Edition Nocaster Blonde NOS (8).jpeg
    Fender Precision CS1951 Limited Edition Nocaster Blonde NOS (8).jpeg
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  • Fender Precision CS1951 Limited Edition Nocaster Blonde NOS (14).jpeg
    Fender Precision CS1951 Limited Edition Nocaster Blonde NOS (14).jpeg
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  • Fender Precision CS1951 Limited Edition Nocaster Blonde NOS (16).jpeg
    Fender Precision CS1951 Limited Edition Nocaster Blonde NOS (16).jpeg
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How about this?

EB Cobalt flat 2814 ( 45-100 ). I has this flat on few bass guitar i been own previously too. When fresh, both EA and DG has almost same intonation setting length . On the second image are 3 years old set of 2814, only D string saddle need adjust toward to neck side for correct intonation setup.

IMG_20251002_091715.jpgIMG_20251002_075751.jpg
 
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None. The two-saddle bridge is inferior. Flame me as you will, I stand by this, having played them. A couple of companies make bridges that fit the old '51-style plate and screw holes that accommodate this, whether by using four saddles, or two angled saddles. Back when it didn't matter, it didn't matter. But with modern digital recording that reveals every nit, flea, wart, and imperfection, to say nothing about the strings that were originally strung on these bridges no longer exist and cannot be duplicated, two-saddle bridges are obsolete.
 
I use these basses with Labella FS TB (through body) strings. And although there are replacement bridges, (like the Wilkinson) it doesn’t sound the same. So to me, they’re not obselete. Are they perfect? No. Are they helping to get that typical early P sound? Yes!
 
This is my late 55’ Precision, and I’ve found moving the saddles to a slight angle help intonate the D and A string.

this bridge helps, but the '51 has the fiber saddles that cannot be moved much :(

two-saddle bridges are obsolete.

I won't argue with this statement, this bass IS obsolete, is a vintage replica of the first design ever, with all the flaws it had:

- two saddles bridge
- standalone single coil pickup with flat poles (a lot of hum and different volume on A and D compared to E and G)
- slab body

however, I like it as it is, and don't want to modify it :P I have other basses, up to modern 6 strings, and this one lives for it's design and flaws, which are part of the sound.
 
this bridge helps, but the '51 has the fiber saddles that cannot be moved much :(



I won't argue with this statement, this bass IS obsolete, is a vintage replica of the first design ever, with all the flaws it had:

- two saddles bridge
- standalone single coil pickup with flat poles (a lot of hum and different volume on A and D compared to E and G)
- slab body

however, I like it as it is, and don't want to modify it :P I have other basses, up to modern 6 strings, and this one lives for it's design and flaws, which are part of the sound.
Meanwhile, Fiber or Bakelite saddle sound different to brass saddle ....
 
There are no strings that can sort intonation issues. It's either live with it or replace the bridge.

that's not true, string sets intonate in different (and constant) positions, depending on the string construction, so in a limited situation like this, with a two saddle bridge, a set where the "couples" intonate in a similar position will probably solve this issue, or at least making it less evident.

I've had even cases where they solved a "single saddle" problem, for example the Schaller 3D, which is a great bridge but had a very limited run for the saddles.
I've had it on a bass and I had to use only specific strings because the E saddle couldn't go much backward, and with a lot of strings it would not intonate.
Thomastik saved me for the most, because the E saddle goes almost in the same position as the A string.
 
The only way to deal with this properly is to compensate the saddles. This is an easy job if you know what you're doing. If not, you should leave it to a professional, either a luthier or an experienced guitar tech. Compensating the saddles will obviously be irreversible, because you need to file grooves into both saddles, but it really is the only way to get close to perfect intonation with a 2-saddle bass bridge. The same goes for 3-saddle Telecaster bridges.

You can of course buy a new set of saddles, compensate those and keep the original saddles somewhere safe if you're worried about resale value.

The result will obviously still vary a bit between different types and gauges of strings, but with compensated saddles you will get significantly closer to perfect intonation with this type of 2-saddle bridge and it is the only way to achieve this. You can't get around the laws of physics.

Strings with different core sizes will always intonate differently. Any claims that certain sets of strings are correctly intonated with all the saddles in an almost flat line is misinformation, probably as a result or user error. It's physically impossible. Some types/gauges of strings can sometimes have two adjacent strings that intonate very similarly, but the overall backwards slope from G to E is always present on a perfectly intonated bass guitar.

To sum it you: You can get SLIGHTLY closer with some types of strings than others, probably "close enough" for many players, but if you want as close to perfect intonation as you possibly can get with a 2-saddle bass, you will need to compensate the saddles.
 
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Considering how much certain strings affect sound, it seems a bit silly to choose strings for intonation instead of just replacing the bridge. I mean, you even have the ashtray on, so it won't be visible.

FWIW, I have LaBella DTF's on my Musicmaster with only two saddles, and surprisingly it intonates decently even with the short 30" scale.
 

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