Strings Pop-creaking When Brought Up To Pitch

[Grinderman]

Dunlop just sent me some new sets of their stainless flats DBFS40100 or 40-100 because I've had a run of G string intonation problems with their 45-105 flats.

I put one set on a Jazz bass last night. These strings intonate okay but they seem to pop-creak more than usual as they're tuned to pitch. By this I mean, more than what I typically expect even from brand new strings.

I already thought the bad G strings from the prior 45-105 sets popped-creaked in this manner more than usual. Now with this 40-100 set, the both G and D seem to pop or creak even more. I think this is something that's familiar to most, particularly with new strings, but this seems more than typical to me.

Perhaps the strings are slipping more than usual on the tuning posts, I don't know. The nut slots aren't too tight because they already slotted for 45, 65, 85, 105 strings.

I'm not sure how concerned I ought to be, sensitive to the fact that I'd already had problems with the same Dunlop flats in 45-105.

 

[michael_t]

I put one set on a Jazz bass last night. These strings intonate okay but they seem to pop-creak more than usual as they're tuned to pitch. By this I mean, more than what I typically expect even from brand new strings.

Is it possible the silked ends of the G/D are binding at the string retainer instead of the nut slots?

 

[Grinderman]

Is it possible the silked ends of the G/D are binding at the string retainer instead of the nut slots?

I think it's possible but I can't imagine why these strings would have that sort problem with the standard Fender bass disc string retainer. Maybe there's some common issue with these disc retainers I'm not aware of?

 

[michael_t]

I think it's possible but I can't imagine why these strings would have that sort problem with the standard Fender bass disc string retainer. Maybe there's some common issue with these disc retainers I'm not aware of?

I mentioned it only because I've read some posts here and there about G and D "getting stuck under the tree". And in most instances, it seems as though it's the silk that creates friction. Not a very common issue, mind you, but it can happen.

 

[Grinderman]

I mentioned it only because I've read some posts here and there about G and D "getting stuck under the tree". And in most instances, it seems as though it's the silk that creates friction. Not a very common issue, mind you, but it can happen.

Yeah, I am wondering if the silk ends are part of the issue. The Dunlop's nickel rounds that I've been using don't have silk but their stainless flats do. On the other hand, the Fender 9050 flats have silk ends too but I've had no issues with them at all.

 

[michael_t]

On the other hand, the Fender 9050 flats have silk ends too but I've had no issues with them at all.

You do make a good point about this happening only with the Dunlop and not with the Fender. Weird... This is a head scratcher for sure.

 

[Grinderman]

You do make a good point about this happening only with the Dunlop and not with the Fender. Weird... This is a head scratcher for sure.

The pop-creak (I don't know how else to describe the sound) happens right around the point the strings are near or fully tensioned to pitch. I presume when the string pops or creaks it comes from the core of the string.

 

[FunkHead]

The pop-creak (I don't know how else to describe the sound) happens right around the point the strings are near or fully tensioned to pitch. I presume when the string pops or creaks it comes from the core of the string.

Usually it's a nut slot issue when I get a bass with these noises tuning up to pitch.
I would try some Graphite in the nut slots. Just use a pencil point and try to coat them as best a s possible and retest.

 

[Grinderman]

Usually it's a nut slot issue when I get a bass with these noises tuning up to pitch.
I would try some Graphite in the nut slots. Just use a pencil point and try to coat them as best a s possible and retest.

Yes, but the nut is slotted for 105, 85, 65, 45 while these strings are 100, 80, 60, 40. Of course I'll try that because it's easy to do.

 

[Discount Bassy]

 

[Killing Floor]

The binding “stress relief” pop you hear and the string “not intonating” are the same problem.

 

[spiritbass]

I recently learned of and acquired my own supply of nut sauce - good stuff!

 

[micguy]

The pop-creak (I don't know how else to describe the sound) happens right around the point the strings are near or fully tensioned to pitch. I presume when the string pops or creaks it comes from the core of the string.

I wouldn't guess it has anything to do with the core - the windings are what are in contact with the nut, bridge, and (if your bass has one or more) the string retainer(s). I'd bet you have a friction problem with one or more of those areas, and the friction is acting on the outside of the string (the windings), not its core. Try lubricating those points, I bet you'll find the issue is significantly reduced. I don't experience that issue, but my basses have graphtech (lubricated) nuts, and no string retainers (tiltback headstocks, but made the right way - with scarf joints). I also consciously wind my strings so the winds are on the top of the tuners as much as possible to lessen the break angle, and therefore what little nut friction there is. If you have a Fenderish bass (aka a flat headstock), do NOT do this - you need MORE break angle most of the time on the A and E, not less.

 

[smtp4me]

Dunlop just sent me some new sets of their stainless flats DBFS40100 or 40-100 because I've had a run of G string intonation problems with their 45-105 flats.

I put one set on a Jazz bass last night. These strings intonate okay but they seem to pop-creak more than usual as they're tuned to pitch. By this I mean, more than what I typically expect even from brand new strings.

I already thought the bad G strings from the prior 45-105 sets popped-creaked in this manner more than usual. Now with this 40-100 set, the both G and D seem to pop or creak even more. I think this is something that's familiar to most, particularly with new strings, but this seems more than typical to me.

Perhaps the strings are slipping more than usual on the tuning posts, I don't know. The nut slots aren't too tight because they already slotted for 45, 65, 85, 105 strings.

I'm not sure how concerned I ought to be, sensitive to the fact that I'd already had problems with the same Dunlop flats in 45-105.

What is the nut made from? If it is bone, you might need to lubricate the nut slots - if the strings are sticking there they will make the pop sound you describe when they move.

 

[Plain Old Barry]

Do you "stretch"* your new strings after installation? Some strings need to be stretched more than others to help them seat around the pegs, across the nut and bridge saddles, and in the bridge holes. Some refer to the bridge and nut seating as "witness pointing", but I found stretching covers it all.

Lube can be helpful, but you're dealing with flats, which are already pretty smooth. You've also dropped a gauge, so the nut slots should have room.

* I know we really aren't "stretching" the metal string, just ensuring proper seating around curves and across break points.

 

[Ggaa]

Saddles do that sometime.

 

[dagrev]

Had the same experience with Ernie Ball Cobalt Flats. Weird sound I never heard before or since.

 

[Grinderman]

I wouldn't guess it has anything to do with the core - the windings are what are in contact with the nut, bridge, and (if your bass has one or more) the string retainer(s). I'd bet you have a friction problem with one or more of those areas, and the friction is acting on the outside of the string (the windings), not its core. Try lubricating those points, I bet you'll find the issue is significantly reduced. I don't experience that issue, but my basses have graphtech (lubricated) nuts, and no string retainers (tiltback headstocks, but made the right way - with scarf joints). I also consciously wind my strings so the winds are on the top of the tuners as much as possible to lessen the break angle, and therefore what little nut friction there is. If you have a Fenderish bass (aka a flat headstock), do NOT do this - you need MORE break angle most of the time on the A and E, not less.

I understand that friction acting on the windings could be a cause or contributing factor but here are some contextual details to consider:

Dunlop has been having problems with their stainless flats. They've had sets with G strings from 45-105 sets that won't intonate. I've gone through severals already with this known problem. According to Dunlop they believe it's due to bad cores.

The unusual pops or creaks have been unique to this particular line of Dunlop flats and it happens with more than one bass of mine yet the same doesn't happen when I use Dunlop's nickel rounds or Fender 9050L flats.

 

[Grinderman]

What is the nut made from? If it is bone, you might need to lubricate the nut slots - if the strings are sticking there they will make the pop sound you describe when they move.

It happens regardless of whether the Dunlop stainless flats are 45-105 or 40-100. It doesn't happen when I use Dunlop nickel rounds (45-105 or Fender 9050 flats (40-100).

The nut on the jazz bass is bone, slotted for 45-105 strings. I've now used 45-105 and 40-100 Dunlop flats with this bass and the pop-creaking happens with either but it's actually worse with the 10-100 flats.

The nut on my Nash PB is graphite self lubricating; I've used 45-105 Dunlop flats on this bass and the pop-creaks also happen on this one.

//This must be confusing to follow.

 

[Grinderman]

Do you "stretch"* your new strings after installation? Some strings need to be stretched more than others to help them seat around the pegs, across the nut and bridge saddles, and in the bridge holes. Some refer to the bridge and nut seating as "witness pointing", but I found stretching covers it all.

Lube can be helpful, but you're dealing with flats, which are already pretty smooth. You've also dropped a gauge, so the nut slots should have room.

* I know we really aren't "stretching" the metal string, just ensuring proper seating around curves and across break points.

I set witness points.