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Stripped screws in jazz jack plate

S

smoothdave

May 24, 2009
105
0
#1
I've got a jazz bass with stripped screws the hold the jack plate. I'm familiar with the toothpick and glue method for fixing strap buttons, and I also found a thread on the plug cutter for fixing that, but what about the smaller holes for a jack plate? Maybe just some wood filler?

Thank you. :help:
 
#4
This advice works for me (& makes sense): since toothpick wood is usually softer/lower quality, get a bit of hardwood veneer (maple, cherry, etc.) and slice it up into small slivers...then the usual routine: dip a sliver in some wood glue, drop in the hole, repeat a few times. Let dry and then remount the plate.
 
#6
Ammended toothpick method:

Mix up some JB Weld or marine epoxy....a small amt is sufficient. Liberally coat the tapered end of a round toothpick (if a toothpick wasn't tapered, it would be a dowel...d'oh!). Insert in the screw hole and snip off the excess. Carefully wipe away any overflow with some mild solvent and rag. Allow to cure. Drill a small pilot hole with your Dremel (you do own a Dremel, don't you?) and properly-sized micro bit. Re-insert / thread screw.

This works 'cuz (a) the drill bit will follow the softer sacrificial toothpick and (b) cured JB Weld can be tapped, painted, whatever forming a permanent repair. I guarantee that bad boy will never strip out again. I've used the same method for strap pins, control cavity covers, even stripped screw holes in graphite epoxy necks.

Riis
 
#10
Zooberwerx said:
Ammended toothpick method:

Mix up some JB Weld or marine epoxy....a small amt is sufficient. Liberally coat the tapered end of a round toothpick (if a toothpick wasn't tapered, it would be a dowel...d'oh!). Insert in the screw hole and snip off the excess. Carefully wipe away any overflow with some mild solvent and rag. Allow to cure. Drill a small pilot hole with your Dremel (you do own a Dremel, don't you?) and properly-sized micro bit. Re-insert / thread screw.

This works 'cuz (a) the drill bit will follow the softer sacrificial toothpick and (b) cured JB Weld can be tapped, painted, whatever forming a permanent repair. I guarantee that bad boy will never strip out again. I've used the same method for strap pins, control cavity covers, even stripped screw holes in graphite epoxy necks.

Riis
Click to expand...

This works great.

I've also simply filled the holes with epoxy putty/dough. Let it set overnight, drill/screw, done.
 
#11
I've stripped the holes on one of my Jazz bass' control plates a million times now.

The method that has been working for me so far is to fill the hole with baking soda, and then drip in some super-glue. (Make sure the glue fully saturates the powder.)
Once the glue has dried, re-drill the hole and put the screw back in.
 
#12
Pilgrim said:
Zoober, the more time s I read that procedure, the more sense it makes. +1.
Click to expand...

It really does work although I would like to hear of situations where it doesn't hold up as promised. This procedure came about when a tuner anchor screw snapped off in a hollow graphite composite headstock. I didn't want to drill a second pilot hole as it would have thrown off the tuner's mounting axis. I was able to drill the remnant of the broken screw but it left a very shallow (the graphite is not that thick) channel which was beyond repair using the traditional toothpick / glue method. Instead, I placed a piece of tape on the inner aspect with some curved needle-nose hobby pliers to act as a dam and "backfilled" the abyss with marine epoxy (JB Weld works well, too) and re-drilled after the patch cured.

Keep in mind that the stress on most screws is lateral in nature.

Riis
 
#14
smoothdave said:
I think line6man might be your ideal test case here.
Click to expand...

Yep....sounds like he's experiencing recurrent structural compromise.

Today's project at the Zooberwerx household: installing removable casters on the sub enclosures. I'm gonna put some sort of steering harness on each so I can jump on it whilst in the trailer, shove off down the ramp, and ride the things to the stage.
 
#16
You guys are killing me!

wooden toothpicks, slathered with wood glue, and crank the screw in while it's still wet!

That's how it's done in wood bodies; not epoxy, not superglue, none of that. wood glue and toothpicks, screw cranked in while still wet. fast, easy, and (more important) as strong as the original wood.
 
#18
line6man said:
I've stripped the holes on one of my Jazz bass' control plates a million times now.

The method that has been working for me so far is to fill the hole with baking soda, and then drip in some super-glue. (Make sure the glue fully saturates the powder.)
Once the glue has dried, re-drill the hole and put the screw back in.
Click to expand...

That works too.

Baking soda, superglue, and ductape holds the universe together.
 
#20
mongo2 said:
That works too.

Baking soda, superglue, and ductape holds the universe together.
Click to expand...

Also...

Chewing gum, wire (baling or other), electrical ties, twist ties, vinyl electricians' tape, velcro, etc.

I did an on-site repair on Tim's Telecaster strap pin with super glue and a sandwich toothpick procurred from the bar. Project consideration: use the toothpick's tapered end, not the one with the colored cellophane tassle. I figured that if it keeps the rye bread from sliding off the top of a greasy Reuben, its more than adequate for a MIK guitar.

The Kentucky Headhunters did an endorsement for D'addario strings touting, not only their excellent performance on stage, but their durability when used to wire up a busted muffler for the long drive home.

^^ All good reasons to have me banished from the Hardware, Setup, and Repair forum.

Riis
 

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