All of life's problems can be solved with WD40 and duct tape.
If it doesn't move... WD40.
If it isn't supposed to move... duct tape.
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If its stuck, force it. If it breaks, it probably needed to be replaced, anyhow.
Riis
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All of life's problems can be solved with WD40 and duct tape.
If it doesn't move... WD40.
If it isn't supposed to move... duct tape.
![]()
Also...
Chewing gum, wire (baling or other), electrical ties, twist ties, vinyl electricians' tape, velcro, etc.
I did an on-site repair on Tim's Telecaster strap pin with super glue and a sandwich toothpick procurred from the bar. Project consideration: use the toothpick's tapered end, not the one with the colored cellophane tassle. I figured that if it keeps the rye bread from sliding off the top of a greasy Reuben, its more than adequate for a MIK guitar.
The Kentucky Headhunters did an endorsement for D'addario strings touting, not only their excellent performance on stage, but their durability when used to wire up a busted muffler for the long drive home.
^^ All good reasons to have me banished from the Hardware, Setup, and Repair forum.
Riis
Also...
^^ All good reasons to have me banished from the Hardware, Setup, and Repair forum.
Riis
i read somewhere about a test that was done using different kinds of tape to actually repair ducts, and it turns out "duct tape" was the worst of the lot!
now gaffer's tape is your friend! that's what they actually use in any kind of show biz production, because it tears cleanly, grips strong, and doesn't leave gunk behind.
"duct tape: for when you sort of need to fix it, kind of!"Generally speaking duct tape is a very, very short-term solution when you don't care about leaving nasty adhesive all over the areas where it's applied.
Caveat about duct tape: it's good for a short period, but it will strip off paint, and after a week or two it starts to shed and leaves the nastiest adhesive around.
Can you guess what I've used to remove duct tape adhesive gunk...
That's right...WD-40.
Ammended toothpick method:
Mix up some JB Weld or marine epoxy....a small amt is sufficient. Liberally coat the tapered end of a round toothpick (if a toothpick wasn't tapered, it would be a dowel...d'oh!). Insert in the screw hole and snip off the excess. Carefully wipe away any overflow with some mild solvent and rag. Allow to cure. Drill a small pilot hole with your Dremel (you do own a Dremel, don't you?) and properly-sized micro bit. Re-insert / thread screw.
This works 'cuz (a) the drill bit will follow the softer sacrificial toothpick and (b) cured JB Weld can be tapped, painted, whatever forming a permanent repair. I guarantee that bad boy will never strip out again. I've used the same method for strap pins, control cavity covers, even stripped screw holes in graphite epoxy necks.
Riis
Wow. The circle of life.
I don't know what to say.