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stripped truss rod nut

so, i got to adjust my action only to discover the truss rod nut is stripped. my first thought was to replace the neck with a warmoth (which is what i will do if its my only option) but i was wondering what i could do as far as repair. some suggestions:

-use an extractor kit to rebore the nut, then attach a screw in it (using epoxy) which could possibly work

-remove the fretboard and replace the truss rod (not entirely worth it on a $200 bass)

-have a drummers key or the like welded in there, and have a "special" way of adjusting my bass

please help... its a cheapo guitar, but its my baby, and I would rather just play it with a bowed neck than to hurt it :(
 
sublimobass-

you don't mention the brand of bass, what is it?
is the rod nut on the headstock (tuner) end of the neck or at the base (body end) of the neck?
does the trussrod nut use an allen wrench?
if so, what size wrench are you using?
and i gather, the wrench is spinning in the nut?
can you SEE the nut in the cavity using a penlight?

my thinking is to REMOVE the nut (without creating collateral damage) and REPLACE it with a new one. i would like the aforementoned questions answered to ascertain your condition. i have done this before, with success. it can be tricky, but can be done. the condition may dictate the method and tools to use.

let me know.
-----------------duc
 
If the threads in the nut are stripped, replace the nut. That's cheap. If it's the threads on the rod, you're in trouble. If you don't know which it is, take it to a repair guy who can figure it out.

Your other suggested fixes aren't workable or are too expensive.
 
If we are talking about the standard fender style-neck with an allen head nut on the body end, it is a pretty easy fix. it is fairly common for the allen head to strip out because unwise people tend to crank on them with the strings under full tension. They are intentionally softer metal so the threads WILL strip instead of the actual rod threads stripping if the threads get in a bind.

To repair:

First, stop by a shop or order a new trussrod nut. They are cheap.

When you get it, remove the neck for easy access and to avoid damaging the body or pickguard.

Once the neck is off, it may loosen and come off easy enough. If it's really stripped out, you can try layering the hole with a few layers of foil to fill in the gaps before you insert the allen wrench. You can also tap a little bigger wrench in with a hammer. Just be gentile. If you happen to have some grinding compound, it works well also to add grip to the wrench.

If is is really bound, you can drill a hole in the center of the nut and remove it with a reverse threaded easy-out tool designed for just such a purpose.

Then just screw on the new one and reassemble the bass.
 
its a new york pro, a spector-B, with the nut at the headstock

as per the title, the nut on the rod is stripped. i cant really tell if the nut is attached to the truss rod. it does use an allen wrench, im not sure of the size, but my guitar tech thought it was an odd size

the nut is definitely stripped. lack of definition in the nut
 
its a new york pro, a spector-B, with the nut at the headstock
as per the title, the nut on the rod is stripped. i cant really tell if the nut is attached to the truss rod. it does use an allen wrench, im not sure of the size, but my guitar tech thought it was an odd size

the nut is definitely stripped. lack of definition in the nut

I'm confused. Are the threads in the nut (the ones that mate up with the threads on the rod) stripped, or is the socket for the allen wrench stripped?

In either case you would simply replace the nut which is cheap and easy. If the socket that the allen wrench keys into is stripped and worn round so that an allen key won't grip, then you may need some help getting it to unscrew from the truss rod so you can replace it. Some type of extractor bit should do it. Anyhow, if either of those things are the problem, then it's no big deal. If it's the rod itself, then you have a problem that's probably more expensive to fix than the bass is worth.

When you get the nut replaced, get the proper size allen wrench for it and store it in a safe place. Some of them are metric sizes and it's sometimes hard to find an allen wrench that fits exactly. If it's too loose it will damage the socket making it imp[ossible to turn with a key.
 
bump. What is stripped is the 6-sided hole the allen wrench fits into. As I said, this isn't an expensive bass, but I have to come to love it (sweet double buck tone), and would like it fixed. A complication due to the cheapness is that the nut is {i believe} attached to the truss rod. So removing the nut is probably not an option.

A friend told me epoxy (JB weld) might not hold up under the conditions I mentioned (gluing a piece in the stripped hole that i could turn with an alternate wrench)

Really if it comes down to me having some weird knob into the truss rod hole I will do it, but I would like to preserve some of the beauty of this bass.

EDIT: a helpful thread: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140784 , although the hammering in a larger hex wrench didnt work in my particular case, although im not sure if i did it right. part of the problem is the hole the nut is in is deep
 
You can take an oversized Allen wrench and taper it to wedge it into the stripped hole. A straight one (as opposed to L-shaped) would work best. Then you could back the nut out without removing and reinserting.

I've NEVER seen a nut welded to the truss rod. That would mean the truss rod turning in the neck. This is wrong on so many levels, I don't even know where to start.
 
bump. What is stripped is the 6-sided hole the allen wrench fits into. As I said, this isn't an expensive bass, but I have to come to love it (sweet double buck tone), and would like it fixed. A complication due to the cheapness is that the nut is {i believe} attached to the truss rod. So removing the nut is probably not an option.

A friend told me epoxy (JB weld) might not hold up under the conditions I mentioned (gluing a piece in the stripped hole that i could turn with an alternate wrench)

Really if it comes down to me having some weird knob into the truss rod hole I will do it, but I would like to preserve some of the beauty of this bass.

EDIT: a helpful thread: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140784 , although the hammering in a larger hex wrench didnt work in my particular case, although im not sure if i did it right. part of the problem is the hole the nut is in is deep

Still haven't got it fixed? :eyebrow:

The truss rod nut is NOT attached to the truss rod, unless it's some design nobody has ever heard of. Take it off. Go from there. If you took it to a real tech he'd fix it.
 
If you really can't get the nut off (which is unusual) take an Allen key that almost fits in the hole (slightly too big), cut a piece off the end of it slightly shorter than the depth of the hole, cut a nice straight slot on one end, put a bit of epoxy in the existing hole, tap in the oversized piece of Allen key, slot side up with a hammer. Then seat it firmly by putting a flat head screwdriver in the slot and tap that with a hammer. Let the epoxy set. Now you'll be able to adjust your truss rod with a flat head screwdriver.
 
If you really can't get the nut off (which is unusual) take an Allen key that almost fits in the hole (slightly too big), cut a piece off the end of it slightly shorter than the depth of the hole, cut a nice straight slot on one end, put a bit of epoxy in the existing hole, tap in the oversized piece of Allen key, slot side up with a hammer. Then seat it firmly by putting a flat head screwdriver in the slot and tap that with a hammer. Let the epoxy set. Now you'll be able to adjust your truss rod with a flat head screwdriver.

I like this idea but do you think the epoxy will be able to withstand the rotational pressure of the screwdriver? If it's a tight truss rod...
 
I like this idea but do you think the epoxy will be able to withstand the rotational pressure of the screwdriver? If it's a tight truss rod...

The epoxy probably isn't even necessary and wont be getting any strain on it since the piece will be wedged in there tight. I used the epoxy just to keep the piece from moving up and down (sliding out) and not laterally. If it's wedged in place, all of the strain will be metal to metal.
 
Craftsman makes an extractor that will work to remove the stripped nut. They come in a couple different sizes so that it can get down into the stripped area and when it is rotated counterclockwise in a drill it will grab hold and unscrew the nut.

Go to the craftsman website and search extractor.
 
i dont know how old this thread is but i have the same problem
my truss rod nut is stripped a bit at some parts and i can tight the truss rod any more(but for some reason i can loose it) and i have this idea:what about if i use a sligthly bigger hex key to adjust the truss rod?? will it work??? can i damage anything by doing this??, any other ideas?
my bass is a squier VM p bass
sorry my not so good english but help please!
 
i dont know how old this thread is but i have the same problem
my truss rod nut is stripped a bit at some parts and i can tight the truss rod any more(but for some reason i can loose it) and i have this idea:what about if i use a sligthly bigger hex key to adjust the truss rod?? will it work??? can i damage anything by doing this??, any other ideas?
my bass is a squier VM p bass
sorry my not so good english but help please!

Your problem seems to be different. It sounds to me like your truss rod nut won't tighten any more because it has reached the end of its travel.

There is a solution if this is the case. Take the nut off by turning it counterclockwise (loosening it) until it comes right off the truss rod. Put 3 or 4 small washers on the truss rod. Then put the nut back on. It should now be able to tighten more.

I've done this on several basses and guitars and it works. If the nut is getting worn out where the allen wrench is inserted, replace the nut with a new one.
 
well how do i turn it counterclockwise now that my hex key doesnt even fit properly
for some reason when i posted first in this threat i was able to loose the rod, now i cant move it cause the hex is too small for the nut wich is now a bit rounded instead of hexagonal
to take the nut i have to loose the rod as much as i can?
explain step by step please
 
OK. Just to revive this thread.

I have a similar problem to the above. The Allen-Key socket is stripped out & I can't adjust the truss rod.

Now this ain't an expensive bass - it's a neck-thru' Hondo/Satellite/Aria - definitely a Matsumoku build - and therein lies the problem - it's neck-thru and the adjustment is via a deep groove in the body at the neck/heel end.

I can only get the right-angle of an Allen key (5mm) in and that *just doesn't* catch, so I can neither tighten nor loosen.

I've read about the extractor (above) but I don't think it'll get into the nut due to the angle.

My next nearest/bigger key is a 5/16 and this won't fit, even with a helping bang from a hammer.

Has anyone got any tricks/advice for this one?

Does anyone know if all truss-rod nuts that take a 5mm key are the same size fit on the rod?

Thanks for any advice.