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SVT VR?

I have one. Mine was made in the USA. But, I hear that the current ones are just as good. Zero issues for me. I’ve even rented it out as backline for a 20 band / two day show.
 
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Hi all. I am going to look at a used one this week. Are there any things to be wary of or problems to look for? Thanks.

AFAIK there is a problem where the VR goes into standby if the line voltage drops below about 110V. There is a fairly easy mod to bypass the relay. I am not sure if this was just a problem with early production amps or remains an issue.

Here is a page that explains the bypass: SVT-VR

Here is a fairly long thread: Ampeg SVT VR Head requiring at least 115 volts from wall socket
 
Hi all. I am going to look at a used one this week. Are there any things to be wary of or problems to look for? Thanks.

Have someone else play while you concentrate on turning the knobs and changing the switches while listening. Then play yourself. Flat is the tone settings at noon. Make sure that the EQ settings work. Listen for scratchy controls as you turn the knobs. With just the bass plugged in, see how much hum there is. Expect there to be some but not a crazy amount. Ask about service history, have the tubes ever been changed, has any other work been performed. Note the cosmetics, any dings or scratches.

If you buy it. The first time that you pick it up, expect some strain. It isn't a light amp.
 
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Thanks Beans! I once had a 1970 Blueline so I'm aware of the schlep. Totally worth it!!

Mine is a '71.

Some of the early SLM ones had a hum issue, easy to fix. The made in Korea and China ones are good. The made in Vietnam ones had a reputation for issues. I had one and set it back. There were both quality - scratches and bad tolexing, and electrical - bad soldering but this can be fixed. If the Vietnam era amp works well, it is good. The ones with issues were in the shop a lot.
 
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Mine is a '71.

Some of the early SLM ones had a hum issue, easy to fix. The made in Korea and China ones are good. The made in Vietnam ones had a reputation for issues. I had one and set it back. There were both quality - scratches and bad tolexing, and electrical - bad soldering but this can be fixed. If the Vietnam era amp works well, it is good. The ones with issues were in the shop a lot.

Thanks. That is most helpful.
 
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Hey y’all, I’m faced with a decision. For the first time, I may actually be able to afford a real vintage Fender P bass. It’s hanging next to a really nice FCS P bass. I’ll absolutely play them side by side and that will be the largest factor in decision. Money isn’t a decision factor; albeit there is a vast difference in cost. I don’t need either. I’d love to have both, but that isn’t feasible.

So, which would you choose? Fender Custom Shop or Vintage Fender.

AFAIK there is a problem where the VR goes into standby if the line voltage drops below about 110V. There is a fairly easy mod to bypass the relay. I am not sure if this was just a problem with early production amps or remains an issue.

Here is a page that explains the bypass: SVT-VR

Here is a fairly long thread: Ampeg SVT VR Head requiring at least 115 volts from wall socket


I had this problem one time and was able to do the bypass thing (been a while so I don't remember exactly what I did, but it worked and was pretty easy!)
 
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The VR has the same bias controls and indicators as the CL, right? Be sure to check the bias exactly according to the procedure in the manual (which you can download from the Ampeg web site). If it won't bias correctly, it means at a minimum that you'll need to buy some power tubes. It could also mean a problem you'll want a tech to repair (it's fairly common for a tube failure to blow a screen resistor).

With the volume controls all the way down, there should be minimal hum and noise. With no bass plugged in, set the EQ flat, turn up the volume controls all the way, and listen for noise. There will probably be a little hum and hiss, but shouldn't be any pops, rumbles, or loud hiss. Tap on the case of the amp sharply and listen for a corresponding noise from the speaker - if it's more than faint, it probably indicates a microphonic tube in the preamp.

If it's healthy and connected to a reasonably efficient speaker, it should be able to get "stupid loud." If you have a long enough cord to stand far enough away to appreciate that, it should make you grin.
 
Well boys she checked out and I followed what you said:
image.jpg
I had to drive in the tropical rains all day, but got it for a good price. Sounds absolutely amazing!! Fortunately I have 2 8ohm Avatars to plug into at home. A little much for the den!! Now looking for a fridge!! I can not wait to plug this into my drummers Flatback next week!! Sorry about the bad pics. It's very clean and has no odd noises or scratchy pots or switches. Vietnam.
 
Well boys she checked out and I followed what you said:View attachment 4051269 I had to drive in the tropical rains all day, but got it for a good price. Sounds absolutely amazing!! Fortunately I have 2 8ohm Avatars to plug into at home. A little much for the den!! Now looking for a fridge!! I can not wait to plug this into my drummers Flatback next week!! Sorry about the bad pics. It's very clean and has no odd noises or scratchy pots or switches. Vietnam.

Congratulations!

Listen for speaker flubbing (a mechanical sound) when using the 810 flatback, it’s only rated at 240W. Ampeg used to recommend using two with the SVT. Having said that, a lot pf people use just one with their SVT’s.
 
Congratulations!

Listen for speaker flubbing (a mechanical sound) when using the 810 flatback, it’s only rated at 240W. Ampeg used to recommend using two with the SVT. Having said that, a lot pf people use just one with their SVT’s.

We rehearse in a small room at fairly low volume so I don't think it's a worry. I am looking for a more modern SVT cab for that reason.
 
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