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SVT4 pro settings

#41
Your more than likely hearing distortion coming from the horn on your cab. If you have a level control then try turning that back so it won't crackle.

At one point my settings got wiped out by a ravaging guitard playing a joke on me so the first thing I do with my SVT is zero everything out on the parametric and graphic equalizers, give it some master volume, and run the pre-gain up just until you start seeing the dreaded yellow LED of death (then run it back a tiny bit). Zero your graphic EQ out @ +0- (same for the volume level for the graphic EQ) and start cutting frequencies until you get a nice neutral unbooming tone from the parametric. Next run your compression up to about half in order rein in any ugly frequencies that you can't seem to get under control. After obtaining a good natural sound it's time to start adding your own flavor with the parametric EQ (this is especially true in the 5 position mid selector knob). I usually don't mess with the "Boost" circuits unless I'm trying to compensate for the acoustics of a room and even then I'll tone down my graphic EQ to bring it in check. Now that you've got a nice sound going, run your compression up until you feel your getting even string responce as you can achieve without sucking up too much low end. Finally bring your master volume up until you can really get a sense of your tone and stage volume and adjust your pre-gain accordingly by the yellow LED of death (Clipping indicator).

Personally, with my rig - 2 610HLF cabs / SVT4 PRO - if I start getting greedy with the graphic EQ that will only lead to clipping and blown horns/woofers. So as a caution adjust your compression according to your tone, not over all volume. Most people will sacrifice their compression for volume and at that time it's time to move to a larger cab or even better a pair of good cabs since I believe the SVT was made for touring musicians that are usually running their rigs in stereo to two seperate cabs or bi-amping. You've got more than enough power to murder small mammals so pour it on according to your cab and adjust your compression / EQ to get the most out of the components.


I play similar music so if your still interested I'll take a couple of pics of my settings when I get to our rehearsal space.
 
#42
bassman515 said:
really...hmmmm well, will that not hurt the preamp? If not i will give that a shot, i know that if i have the 15db in i am at around 2:30-3 so 12 might be about the same...will try tomorrow....are you running pretty flat on the eq?
Click to expand...

I have sort of an "upside down smiley face" on my graphic EQ, with the level up just about all the way. The main EQ is set fairly flat, with the mid switch on #1. No Ultra Low, but I have the Ultra High button on. I sometimes use the Ultra Low, though. Many say that it really sucks, but I've found it useful once in awhile. I usually run the onboard compressor at about the 9:00 position--I've found that, for me, going much higher starts to engage the "suck" factor.
 
#44
By the yellow led of death do you mean the one on the master that says the limiter is kicking in or the red on on the preamp that tells when the preamp is clipping, the reason i ask is i assumed it was better for the limiter to kick in than for the pre to clip?
 
#46
Right in the manual, it tells to set the gain so that the red light flashes when you are playing the hardest (slapping, or really digging in). That's how I've always set it, and it's never caused a problem.
 
#48
Ryan L. said:
Right in the manual, it tells to set the gain so that the red light flashes when you are playing the hardest (slapping, or really digging in). That's how I've always set it, and it's never caused a problem.
Click to expand...

Right. Thus the "yellow LED of doom" phrase. If you have your pre-gain dialed up and then start engaging the limiter it usually equals two things. You've turned your speakers into confetti and you should be looking into a more capable cabinet.

I'll post pics tomorrow when I get back from my band's rehearsal space.
 
#56
I have an SVT4 Pro and an SVT 810E and it is hard to keep up with a full band. I run the gain and master at about 12 'o clock, compression at about 9 o' clock and all the EQ's set flat, except for a slight treble cut, a slight bass boost and slight mid boost. On the graphic EQ I boost the mids slightly, the bass slightly and the highs slightly kind of like a UU formation but not much above flat. I play Stingrays through it and it is the best setting I have come up with to cut through. Don't use the decibel pad and don't mess with the treble and bass boost switches. I honestly think this head is really weak for its supposed power rating. My GK 1001 RB II can blow it away and it is more 400 fewer watts.
 
#59
I have heard that about the output...one thing that was explained to me is that it is a cleaner signal therfore the percieved volume is not as loud. I have played a harke 300 watt head and it seem loader too, but i was clipping the amp and the clip protect lights in my amp were flashing...it is odd though, there are many that say this amp cuts thought and is great, and others that say...man this thing sucks...lol
 
#60
Hi

You run more or less the same set up as me. And I am up against a Mesa Boogie equipped guitarist playing rock and I had a similar problem when I first got mine.

Check that you speakon connector is wired +2/-2 ( and not +1/-1at the amp end when running bridged. If its not, then re wire it but turn down. I think that should blow your guy away!

All the best

Mike
 

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