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Taking off the neck to adjust truss rod...

Depending on the bass, some models you dont have to take the neck off, just the pickguard, I've noticed though with MIJ/CIJ Fenders you have to remove the neck because the truss rod sits deeper in the neck pocket and won't allow easy access. On my MIM Classic 50's Lacquer I just have to remove the pickguard (unless you want to ding up the pickguard), but don't need to remove the neck.

Another thing that will assist you in not having to remove the neck (unless it's a MIJ/CIJ as stated above) is getting yourself a paint lid removal tool. Usually they'll give these away free at Home Depot. I've been using this for years to adjust the truss rods on Fender AVRI guitars, basses, MIM Classic series guitars and basses, etc. and it works wonderfully.

I'm more of an, "either remove the neck completely or dont" kind of person, and not into the "loosen and tilt" method. I fear that could lead to enlarging the holes when the screws are still in the beck but loose, and you're moving the neck around with the screws still loosened in the holes.

FUERMss.jpg
 
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Depending on the bass, some models you dont have to take the neck off, just the pickguard, I've noticed though with MIJ/CIJ Fenders you have to remove the neck because the truss rod sits deeper in the neck pocket and won't allow easy access. On my MIM Classic 50's Lacquer I just have to remove the pickguard (unless you want to ding up the pickguard), but don't need to remove the neck.

Another thing that will assist you in not having to remove the neck (unless it's a MIJ/CIJ as stated above) is getting yourself a paint lid removal tool. Usually they'll give these away free at Home Depot. I've been using this for years to adjust the truss rods on Fender AVRI guitars, basses, MIM Classic series guitars and basses, etc. and it works wonderfully.

I'm more of an, "either remove the neck completely or dont" kind of person, and not into the "loosen and tilt" method. I fear that could lead to enlarging the holes when the screws are still in the beck but loose, and you're moving the neck around with the screws still loosened in the holes.

View attachment 3288533
What exactly are you doing with the paint lid removal tool?
 
Depending on the bass, some models you dont have to take the neck off, just the pickguard, I've noticed though with MIJ/CIJ Fenders you have to remove the neck because the truss rod sits deeper in the neck pocket and won't allow easy access. On my MIM Classic 50's Lacquer I just have to remove the pickguard (unless you want to ding up the pickguard), but don't need to remove the neck.

Another thing that will assist you in not having to remove the neck (unless it's a MIJ/CIJ as stated above) is getting yourself a paint lid removal tool. Usually they'll give these away free at Home Depot. I've been using this for years to adjust the truss rods on Fender AVRI guitars, basses, MIM Classic series guitars and basses, etc. and it works wonderfully.

I'm more of an, "either remove the neck completely or dont" kind of person, and not into the "loosen and tilt" method. I fear that could lead to enlarging the holes when the screws are still in the beck but loose, and you're moving the neck around with the screws still loosened in the holes.

View attachment 3288533

Good tip. But yah I'm CIJ.

Also I thought it was going to need an Allen wrench for some reason.
 
I wouldn’t buy a bass that I needed to take off the pick guard to adjust, let alone the neck. Headstock is bad enough. If only every bass used the wheel at the heel. I see the elite fenders are now at least. The Music Man style should be standard.

I'll gladly buy a bass where you have to either remove the guard or the neck. It's all personal preference, but I'll go through the minimal hassle/first world problem and added classic look to own this:

IuRhVYb.jpg


eaWdDXH.jpg
 
Both my heel adjust Fenders nuts turn very easily. I use a little 3” driver with changeable bits. I select a flat bit that fits one half the cross slot that is visible, put a business card on the pg and adjust away. That little driver allows me to get so very little torque that i have zero fear of goofing up the nut slot. If i ever get a Fender that doesn’t turn that easily, I’ll tilt the neck.

If this little inconvenience is a deal breaker for some, fine. I’ll bet their barristas shudder when they walk in the door. :roflmao:
 
My two Highway one J basses adjust at the heel with the included ball end wrench they came with. I have to remove and replace the guard so it takes a few more minutes when i do a set up but i’m not getting paid so a few extra minutes is no biggie.
 
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I’ve never bothered with either method, sure it might hurt resale value.....just how I roll haha.
Obligatory pick guard gouge.
Right. Remove some material from the pickguard and possibly the body. I personally can’t imagine removing the strings and neck to adjust the truss rod. The neck needs to be under tension to see where you are going with it. Seems like it’d take forever to adjust the neck properly, having to string it up and wait for it to settle for each adjustment. Three attempts and you’re up to 15 minutes. Pass.

As far as removing material from the instrument, these are bass guitars, not Faberge eggs. It’ll be fine.
 

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