TB110 coffeehouse, sealed anyone ?

[stuntbass77]

I’m leaning towards a sealed 10” cab of the same dimensions as the original only going sealed. I am not worried about highs as I like a bump somewhere between 80-100hz. I would be using this at low volume and mainly to mic and record. Would going with the original ported give me more of what I want ? Any real world experience with this design only sealed ?

 

[pie_man_25]

No real experience, but in low volume use I don't see why not. The port does add some low end to the design, it's just the way it works.

If you want you could build it with the port and design a way to seal the box off and come to your own conclusions from there - it adds some cost and complexity to the build, but with such a small project, why not?

 

[stuntbass77]

No real experience, but in low volume use I don't see why not. The port does add some low end to the design, it's just the way it works.

If you want you could build it with the port and design a way to seal the box off and come to your own conclusions from there - it adds some cost and complexity to the build, but with such a small project, why not?

I had thought about that myself. Making it so I could seal the port if I wanted at any point or remove it. Obviously I would need to make sure it was air tight. I plan to make a box inside the the speaker box to house the 1/4” jacks. I figured I would just drill and use a fine sheet metal screw to go through it so I could attach the speaker cable to one side and attach the 1/4” on the other with eyelet connectors. Basically just cut the pan head top off the screw so I could use both ends to attach the connections. This way no air can get out or in the jack. I could just by a drop in off the shelf for this, may do that. Thanks for the response!

 

[pie_man_25]

I had thought about that myself. Making it so I could seal the port if I wanted at any point or remove it. Obviously I would need to make sure it was air tight. I plan to make a box inside the the speaker box to house the 1/4” jacks. I figured I would just drill and use a fine sheet metal screw to go through it so I could attach the speaker cable to one side and attach the 1/4” on the other with eyelet connectors. Basically just cut the pan head top off the screw so I could use both ends to attach the connections. This way no air can get out or in the jack. I could just by a drop in off the shelf for this, may do that. Thanks for the response!

Not gonna lie, that's clever about the screws, I'd just have run the wire through a hole in the cabinet and sealed it off with a hot glue gun - it's worked in other projects so far.

 

[SgtHulka]

Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]

 

[stuntbass77]

Not gonna lie, that's clever about the screws, I'd just have run the wire through a hole in the cabinet and sealed it off with a hot glue gun - it's worked in other projects so far.

Yep, and that would work just as well. My idea is a little over board but I alway over due everything

 

[stuntbass77]

Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]

I read the whole thing before posting this and there is very little in about people using it sealed in a real world experiment. Thanks for the link anyway !

 

[pie_man_25]

I read the whole thing before posting this and there is very little in about people using it sealed in a real world experiment. Thanks for the link anyway !

If you have winISD you could probably model it beforehand. Heck if you want I could just do that up in the morning and take a couple screenshots.

 

[stuntbass77]

If you have winISD you could probably model it beforehand. Heck if you want I could just do that up in the morning and take a couple screenshots.

That would be cool !!! I’m planning on using the eminence s2010 and the same specs as the 110 coffeehouse design by Duke.

 

[pie_man_25]

Alrighty, ref. attached - just a quick thing I did on WinISD pro alpha, I've had this particular installation about five years so it might not be current.

The basslite in the sealed cab is red, the teal/cyan is the ported.

N.B. - I did my best with regards to the ported cabinet to use the "net" volume that duke lejeune mentioned in his thread (0.9 ft^3 less the port and driver) and input the dimensions as close as possible with regards to the port to what was on the parts-express website. That's the ported cabinet shown. I've got another model using the gross volume of 1.1 ft^3, with the same port dimensions and it doesn't feature the bump in the low-mid/upper bass. I'm not sure whether WinISD considers the driver displacement and the port displacement in its factor of the cabinet volume or not, so I'm putting up both and if somebody more knowledgeable cares to clarify I'd be more than happy to listen.

The sealed box design shown in red was simply 1.1 cubic feet less eminence's rated driver displacement of 0.03 cubic feet, which as you can imagine doesn't make much difference (even when I jacked it up to 0.5cubic feet) - so I didn't bother with doing that one twice.

Anyways:

Ported as shown: This cab has a bum at about 100hz even that adds about 1db,
-3db point - 67hz
-10db point - 51hz

Ported with 1.1 cubic feet: -3db point - 61hz
-10 db point 46hz

sealed: -3db point - 109hz
-10db point - 55hz

Now, with regards to high power handling, I don't have data on that, I'm sure that WinISD can absolutely accomodate - but it's been too long since I've used this software to get anything done. Being the same driver in 2 (or technically three) different cabinets I can't imagine that it'll add up to enough difference unless you actually pushed it at 100 watts or more for some real amount of time.

That being said, the two ported cabinets do perform noticeably better in terms of having more low end extension as far as things matter. If the 1.1 cubic foot model is more accurate, there'd be no noticeable low-mid bump and a really good extension down to the -10db point of 46hz. The 0.9 cubic foot model DOES have a 1db hump, a decibel is not a very big bump, though, and the -3 point at 67hz isn't too bad, and is almost enough for a 5-string - the low-end in that one does drop off somewhat faster than the sealed box with a -10db point just 4hz lower than it (which, really, is about the same in consequence)

The sealed box does have noticeably less low-end extension than either of the ported designs, though. with a -3 at just about 109hz, but it DOES drop off slowly, getting to a -10 of 55hz. I've got a feeling this would work, but it would translate to a cab where you might have to turn up the bass a bit. The port really does seem to make a difference.

 

[stuntbass77]

View attachment 4157864

Alrighty, ref. attached - just a quick thing I did on WinISD pro alpha, I've had this particular installation about five years so it might not be current.

The basslite in the sealed cab is red, the teal/cyan is the ported.

N.B. - I did my best with regards to the ported cabinet to use the "net" volume that duke lejeune mentioned in his thread (0.9 ft^3 less the port and driver) and input the dimensions as close as possible with regards to the port to what was on the parts-express website. That's the ported cabinet shown. I've got another model using the gross volume of 1.1 ft^3, with the same port dimensions and it doesn't feature the bump in the low-mid/upper bass. I'm not sure whether WinISD considers the driver displacement and the port displacement in its factor of the cabinet volume or not, so I'm putting up both and if somebody more knowledgeable cares to clarify I'd be more than happy to listen.

The sealed box design shown in red was simply 1.1 cubic feet less eminence's rated driver displacement of 0.03 cubic feet, which as you can imagine doesn't make much difference (even when I jacked it up to 0.5cubic feet) - so I didn't bother with doing that one twice.

Anyways:

Ported as shown: This cab has a bum at about 100hz even that adds about 1db,
-3db point - 67hz
-10db point - 51hz

Ported with 1.1 cubic feet: -3db point - 61hz
-10 db point 46hz

sealed: -3db point - 109hz
-10db point - 55hz

Now, with regards to high power handling, I don't have data on that, I'm sure that WinISD can absolutely accomodate - but it's been too long since I've used this software to get anything done. Being the same driver in 2 (or technically three) different cabinets I can't imagine that it'll add up to enough difference unless you actually pushed it at 100 watts or more for some real amount of time.

That being said, the two ported cabinets do perform noticeably better in terms of having more low end extension as far as things matter. If the 1.1 cubic foot model is more accurate, there'd be no noticeable low-mid bump and a really good extension down to the -10db point of 46hz. The 0.9 cubic foot model DOES have a 1db hump, a decibel is not a very big bump, though, and the -3 point at 67hz isn't too bad, and is almost enough for a 5-string - the low-end in that one does drop off somewhat faster than the sealed box with a -10db point just 4hz lower than it (which, really, is about the same in consequence)

The sealed box does have noticeably less low-end extension than either of the ported designs, though. with a -3 at just about 109hz, but it DOES drop off slowly, getting to a -10 of 55hz. I've got a feeling this would work, but it would translate to a cab where you might have to turn up the bass a bit. The port really does seem to make a difference.

Awesome, thanks so much for taking the time to do that for me. I’m thinking I’ll stick with the box ported as it was originally designed

 

[pie_man_25]

Awesome, thanks so much for taking the time to do that for me. I’m thinking I’ll stick with the box ported as it was originally designed

I'm happy to help, and it didn't take too much time on my end.

It seems like in this context it might not even matter too much, but making a block for the port might help you to achieve different sounds and experiment with which one you like better anyways.

 

[SgtHulka]

While there seems to be a plethora of knowledge in the thread, may I jump in with a quick question?

I've been looking for a small cab for a long time and this thread just reignited my interest. It's strictly for jamming with a buddy or small coffee house stuff but if it works out well I will add a second 10 to it. Light and portable is the name of the game. So I want to be good, but I'm not willing to spend 3 hundo either.

What do you think of this cabinet, and is it viable as a bass guitar application? It seems to me it would be just fine and it looks like it's very well made with all the baffling inside already there. I will add a handle and change out the Jack plate.

If it is kosher, what do you think would be the best driver for it? If it is I think I can get a pretty nice cabinet out of $150, $160 or so...

1.25 cu feet
39hz cabinet tuning

SK1X10V | Single 10" Ported Subwoofer Enclosure

 

[stuntbass77]

I'm happy to help, and it didn't take too much time on my end.

It seems like in this context it might not even matter too much, but making a block for the port might help you to achieve different sounds and experiment with which one you like better anyways.

Ya, maybe I will work with changing the port (width and depth ) to see how it reacts. Good idea !!! I read some have put a block in the middle of the port that runs the hole depth of the internal port area and have reported it helps with five string ( B ). I will be only using four strings but still playing with the port may have value. If not I’ll just go back to the original designed port. I so want to educate myself so I don’t have to ask a ton of questions and love to learn and test myself. Having enough good days with my health leaves me with do I want to learn, build, or play and play is usually the winner. This kind of help goes a long way and saves someone like me from destroying a new speaker , thanks again !!!! I wish more people knew that you can’t just make a box and put any speaker in it !!! Seems like sometimes even with the calculations one has to play around to get the best results for their needs but not to push it to far as to burn up a new speaker.

 

[pie_man_25]

While there seems to be a plethora of knowledge in the thread, may I jump in with a quick question?

I've been looking for a small cab for a long time and this thread just reignited my interest. It's strictly for jamming with a buddy or small coffee house stuff but if it works out well I will add a second 10 to it. Light and portable is the name of the game. So I want to be good, but I'm not willing to spend 3 hundo either.

What do you think of this cabinet, and is it viable as a bass guitar application? It seems to me it would be just fine and it looks like it's very well made with all the baffling inside already there. I will add a handle and change out the Jack plate.

If it is kosher, what do you think would be the best driver for it? If it is I think I can get a pretty nice cabinet out of $150, $160 or so...

1.25 cu feet
39hz cabinet tuning

SK1X10V | Single 10" Ported Subwoofer Enclosure

View attachment 4158200

I'd be happy to help you out,

Tbh, parts-express still sells the same old subwoofer box used with the eminence basslite in the coffeehouse cab, they're just out of stock on that for now.

Home

I'm not going to call the skar audio stuff bad by any means - but with regards to this goldwood cab, it's already a tried-and-true design that works and works for pretty cheap. This cab is also a little under half the price of the skar cab.

Granted, I could look into another driver that works. That just might take a bit. I think the Goldwood box and the basslite might just have been that magical Goldilocks "just right" that the Duke just happened to notice.

 

[SgtHulka]

I'd be happy to help you out,

Tbh, parts-express still sells the same old subwoofer box used with the eminence basslite in the coffeehouse cab, they're just out of stock on that for now.

Home

I'm not going to call the skar audio stuff bad by any means - but with regards to this goldwood cab, it's already a tried-and-true design that works and works for pretty cheap. This cab is also a little under half the price of the skar cab.

Granted, I could look into another driver that works. That just might take a bit. I think the Goldwood box and the basslite might just have been that magical Goldilocks "just right" that the Duke just happened to notice.

Yeah...I guess you are right. Why mess with what an expert came up with. I'm gonna order one and put it together. I guess I'll have to read through that thread to find out what else I need to buy.

Thx pie man.