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Team Trace Elliot pt4.

I use a vintage 1960's Samsonite briefcase for the head and all my cables. I did get the tote for my Genzler Magellan 800.
I use a Gator bag someone else recommended here.. It looks a bit like a plush-lined food delivery bag... works great!
Everything, amp, cab, and cables goes in and it's a single carry trip.
 
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Peaked my interest. Which Gator bag is it??
It's called the GP-40... 19 x 12.5 x 12.5 Inches "Hardware Bag"
I removed two of the divider cells, leaving two up against the right inside of the bag. One for the amp, the other for an iPad stand. The rest of the bag holds the 1x10, but could hold the 2x8.

 
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And this fits a 2x8 cabinet?

You'd have to try it... I don't have one to try right now. I remember it fitting in tightly, with the grill facing up (or down).
You'd probably have to remove all of the dividers, put the speaker in and you'd have some room around it to add them back on the long side. The bag can "bulge" out a little bit when you put stuff in it - it's not rigid.
 
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With some advice from @frankie5string i picked up the Gato GB-40 and an OnStage SB1200(speaker bag).. The Gator fits the 1x10, amp head and all my speaker cables. The SB1200 fits the 2x8 cabinet plus all my other cables, mic, tuner and whatnots!
 

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That would make sense, but doesnt explain the other problem when combining signals through a mixer. That problem is the one that has my tech guys bamboozled.
Have you checked phase cancellation? If the two lines are somehow out of phase, in the sum they cancel each other out. However, once in the amp, I understand that the two signals are actually mixed and become a single signal, right? Any phase cancellation took then already place in the mix. To get to the bottom of this I would use other trustworthy mixers and test what the amp is doing with the mixed signal.
 
Got a project that's been sitting about 2 years and I'm just finally getting to it. It's a mildly ambitious idea, taking on an 80s Mk IV AH250 that came without a sleeve. Upon receipt of it, I put wrapped the three sections in packing material, out of all into a milk crate and stored it until I landed where I could give it some attention.
Thought
Tonight I'm building a sleeve for it, then I'll get it fitted and screwed into the sleeve, then dump it at my friend the amp guy's house to see if he can restore it.
I cut my plywood at a shop two days ago, getting out the screws, clamps and PL adhesive tonight. See how hopeful I am... 😊 Everything essential is here, might need to spend a little bread... There might be a voltage issue or two, but there's a solution to every problem. Always hopeful, that's how I roll...
IMG_20221013_212127721.jpgIMG_20221014_224242482.jpgIMG_20221014_224550577.jpgIMG_20250322_083123388_HDR.jpg
I've been over on Basschat.uk and gotten some friendly help with dimensions, and a .pdf of the schematic for the Mk V- which is apparently almost the same amp.
I'm happy to be finally on this- I'll be back when I've got some progress to parade around.
 
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Bottom right corner... Well, I screwed up a cut, don't know what the heck I was thinking, but the shape is true and it's getting the full treatment- Epoxy and some kind of Duratex paint... Hopefully we'll all forget about that silly mistake. 😊
So step one. Step two is fit the chassis in there, then we're off to the bench...

View attachment 7183818


That's not far off the original : just round off the outer edges and corners, cover in tolex, and put chrome protectors on the corners.
 
I own a wonderful TE tower consisting of AH1000-12, SN Box 1048H, and SN Box 1518. Some silly boys have played with it in the rehearsal room and now I lost control of the various settings, from the front of the amp or the Footswitch BFC-6. E.g. pressing the button to disengage or engage the effects loop has no effect. The effects loop is gone and the blue LED is always on. It does not matter whether I use the stomp on the Footscwitch or the button at the front of the amp. Unfortunately it is similar for other settings such as the compressor, the valve etc. It seems that some bad connections the boys did has ruined the preamp's various settings as they are controlled by the circuit board inside the amp.
Now, has anyone experienced similar damages? Does anyone know how to repair that circuit board? Thanks for any hints.

P.S.: To be on the safe side I attach a picture as TE has more than one amp labelled as AH1000-12
Tower-slanted-r.jpg
 
I own a wonderful TE tower consisting of AH1000-12, SN Box 1048H, and SN Box 1518. Some silly boys have played with it in the rehearsal room and now I lost control of the various settings, from the front of the amp or the Footswitch BFC-6. E.g. pressing the button to disengage or engage the effects loop has no effect. The effects loop is gone and the blue LED is always on. It does not matter whether I use the stomp on the Footscwitch or the button at the front of the amp. Unfortunately it is similar for other settings such as the compressor, the valve etc. It seems that some bad connections the boys did has ruined the preamp's various settings as they are controlled by the circuit board inside the amp.
Now, has anyone experienced similar damages? Does anyone know how to repair that circuit board? Thanks for any hints.

P.S.: To be on the safe side I attach a picture as TE has more than one amp labelled as AH1000-12
View attachment 7184255
Ouch.
Well, have you called Peavey?...
 
Bottom right corner... Well, I screwed up a cut, don't know what the heck I was thinking, but the shape is true and it's getting the full treatment- Epoxy and some kind of Duratex paint... Hopefully we'll all forget about that silly mistake. 😊
So step one. Step two is fit the chassis in there, then we're off to the bench...

View attachment 7183818
This is just the box, dimensionally correct as I could get (got the numbers from someone who can use a tape 🙂), for the present purpose of getting the parts installed so I can send the head off to get repaired.
While it's on the bench, the sleeve will get Bond-O'd, sanded, some nice rounded-over edges, and at least be given some kind of black, maybe super-dark black forest green, protective coating. Tolex could happen... And yes, some steel corners.
 
I own a wonderful TE tower consisting of AH1000-12, SN Box 1048H, and SN Box 1518. Some silly boys have played with it in the rehearsal room and now I lost control of the various settings, from the front of the amp or the Footswitch BFC-6. E.g. pressing the button to disengage or engage the effects loop has no effect. The effects loop is gone and the blue LED is always on. It does not matter whether I use the stomp on the Footscwitch or the button at the front of the amp. Unfortunately it is similar for other settings such as the compressor, the valve etc. It seems that some bad connections the boys did has ruined the preamp's various settings as they are controlled by the circuit board inside the amp.
Now, has anyone experienced similar damages? Does anyone know how to repair that circuit board? Thanks for any hints.

P.S.: To be on the safe side I attach a picture as TE has more than one amp labelled as AH1000-12
View attachment 7184255


Haven't seen @Fred from Peavey around in a while, but try DM-ing him - he might be able to point you in the right direction.

Have you tried contacting Peavey directly, for advice?

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I'm a split-hair under 1/16th" different in height from one side to the other. 🫣 But there's no point in starting over now. In my deepest recesses I feel hollow, off-kilter, embarrassed, yea, deeply ashamed. *Sigh*...

Don't know, but I'll bet it's that mistake I had to correct when I did my cuts, telegraphing through the process now... I had difficulty in part because I'd forgotten that the big old panel saw has a slightly warped fence on the sled mechanism... That sent me a little into left field. Anyway by the time I got through that morass, got home and glued/screwed it together on the old junky table in my basement, I'd set something together poorly, and here we are.

IMG_20250324_150145732.jpg

It'll be fine.

Carrying on...
 
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